Page 9 of 9 FirstFirst ... 789
  1. #81
    It would be too simple wouldn't it!

  2. #82
    Quote Originally Posted by Wejjmeister View Post
    Ok question whilst Im back to the drawing board.... Can I run profiled rails upside down, as in, on the base of my gantry box section? If not I will have to build the Y axis completely differently to the way I intended and therefore the Z too.
    A picture from Jonathan's build which shows exactly what i mean. I assume you know it by heart till now , going with that design. I wouldn't be over inventive, especially knowing that his machine works wonderfully.

    Quote Originally Posted by Wejjmeister View Post
    Also I have seen the difference between the 2.2kw and 3kw spindles and am aware of the differences, also the diameters are different 80mm vs 100mm I recall? I will use the 3kw at some point, but as with everything, budget has to come in somewhere
    Then just alter the design so you can fit it in the future.

  3. #83
    Before I go any further...How am I doing so far? Is this along the right lines?

    Also, mad question, but could I get the top, bottom and sides cut from 15mm Steel plate rather than Aluminium and use the epoxy method again? It would cost a LOT less than 20mm 6082!!?? The Gantry ends would still be 25mm Aluminium...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	New Gantry Plans 1.jpg 
Views:	351 
Size:	122.8 KB 
ID:	12600   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	New Gantry Plans 2.jpg 
Views:	209 
Size:	78.5 KB 
ID:	12601  
    Last edited by Wejjmeister; 21-06-2014 at 01:36 PM.

  4. #84
    Hi Weijjmeister,

    The double beam 'MechMate' style gantry is a difficult design especially if you want to exceed the performance of a well made standard gantry. Hats off for trying it.

    The design in post 83 is very limited by the rail being mounted to a flat plate which is mostly cut away. Also, the overall gantry is effectively 2 'C' shapes. As each 'C' shape is joined to the other only at the ends then you've lost a lot of stiffness.

    One of the other tricky areas is the bit you haven't drawn yet which is the Z axis and the options for joining it to the Y axis including fitting the Z ballscrew etc. The design will quite literally hinge on what you do there which is making it difficult for everyone to critique the whole thing.

    If you study Jonathan's design you will see that the gantry creates 2 box sections (to resist the twisting forces that your 'C' shapes will not) which are joined by a single top and bottom panel. You will also see that the top and bottom panels, plus the sides which take the rail are about 20mm (?) thick, whereas the outer panels are more like 10mm. This is an economical use of material where it is needed.

    I think that you would be better off starting from your earlier post (#70?), but mounting the rails onto the inner faces of the box section, but with a thick plate between the rail and box section. Or you could put the thick plate inside the box section so long as it spanned most of the height of the section. This is because with this layout the rails are being twisted off the frame (rather than pushed in or out on a conventional gantry), and the relatively thin wall of the box section may not be good enough.
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  5. #85
    Thanks for the above, I really appreciate the time taken to reply and include so much detail. I am working on the gantry again so hope to ppst a new revised design taking everything on board.

    This is what arrived today!! Exciting!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	uploadfromtaptalk1403720304376.jpg 
Views:	185 
Size:	55.7 KB 
ID:	12648  

  6. #86
    Revision 5 of the Y axis with the beginnings of the Z axis too for your opinions on guys if possible. The Z axis is not finished, the upright plate will be mirrored to the other end and boxed in with the profiled rails mounted to it, the ballscrew will run internally on the same face.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	uploadfromtaptalk1404155333942.jpg 
Views:	249 
Size:	34.7 KB 
ID:	12694Click image for larger version. 

Name:	uploadfromtaptalk1404155340720.jpg 
Views:	174 
Size:	36.7 KB 
ID:	12695Click image for larger version. 

Name:	uploadfromtaptalk1404155346082.jpg 
Views:	178 
Size:	87.4 KB 
ID:	12696

  7. Looking nice, any chance you could extend the width that little bit more to allow for the plate, shaped like a T, to fit to the full width. This would allow you to box in the bearing units and then come up the sides and across the top as one plate, if you do that on both sides it makes the whole thing a box and so stronger all round.

    I like the way your going with it though

    Last edited by Lee Roberts; 30-06-2014 at 10:04 PM.

  8. #88
    Did this ever get finished? Looks like exactly the kind of machine I want to build.

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to Jezzag60 For This Useful Post:

Page 9 of 9 FirstFirst ... 789

Similar Threads

  1. BUILD LOG: First steel diy CNC router build
    By ivars211 in forum DIY Router Build Logs
    Replies: 59
    Last Post: 28-07-2014, 07:29 PM
  2. A Sturdy Steel Framed Machine Design
    By Boyan Silyavski in forum Machine Frames & Beds
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 06-11-2013, 04:58 PM
  3. BUILD LOG: Steel Framed CNC router
    By Joe in forum DIY Router Build Logs
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 23-06-2013, 09:45 PM
  4. BUILD LOG: Steel Framed Router
    By GTJim in forum DIY Router Build Logs
    Replies: 52
    Last Post: 14-09-2011, 05:51 PM
  5. BUILD LOG: My steel framed router
    By pavlo in forum DIY Router Build Logs
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 06-03-2011, 09:08 PM


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts