MK4 will run off the same control box so there won't be any updates in that log.
In post #95 in this thread showing the wiring diagram there were some changes made after that:
1. 68V linear supply was actually putting out 72V
2. 30V Switched mode power supply was removed (far right)
3. Z axis driver (MD542) bottom right replaced by another DQM860 driver, and powered by the 72V linear supply
4. 5A fuses going to each X driver replaced by a single 10A fuse shared to both (if fuse blows gantry stops)
5. 6A MCB type D uprated to 10A MCB type D to cope with linear power supply inrush current when switched on
6. 5V power supply cable from PC to BOB was replaced with a dedicated 5V DIN rail PSU (mains driven)
7. A green LED was included in the power on circuit when the main switch was switched on
Very happy with it and works well.
Many thanks for the reply.
I have been mulling over the design of mine and plan to incorporate many ideas from your build.
Just placed and order with Chalon for a rotary disconnect switch and two type D MCB's 4A & 10A.
On holidays fo rthe next few weeks so taking viso and some cables, plugs and sockets plus soldring iron with me and relax in the sun while building my wiring looms ;-)
IanLife is best lived @ G0......
I now have all my bits around me and startng to work through the wiring schematic;
2 off 36V - 400W PSU (for drivers)
1 off 24V 2.5A mini rail mount PSU
1 off 5V - 2A mini rail mount PSU
1 off CP0-10V BOB (cnc4you)
4 off CW5045 (cnc4you)
1 off UC300 (cnc4you)
2 off E-Stops (2 pos NC)
4 off 24V 10A DPDT rail mount relays
1 off 4A type D MCB rail mount
1 off 10A type D MCB rail mount
1 off Rotary panel disconnect
1 off 10A EMI filter (cnc4you)
1 off Green reset (NO) panel push button
2 off 24V fans (blown air into cabinet)
1 off Green panel mount led (5Vdc - live)
1 off Yellow panel mount led (24Vdc - live)
2 off White panel mount leds (36Vdc - live)
DIN rail mounting and red, black, yellow and fused connectors.
Oh and I have been given a PILZ PNOZ 16S safety unit, just not too sure how to incorporate this.
I did notice that you have an Allen Bradley unit, would this be of use to me or do I have enough above?Life is best lived @ G0......
It would be best to start a new thread on your build. Also, I wouldn't consider myself an electrical expert, I got through my build after many wrong turns and used the advice of fellow forum members.
I haven't use the Pilz myself, but it is purpose built and used commercially and is well known. Instead I was happy with a standard relay to run all the 24V signal control hooked up to the e-stop circuit and wiring it up manually to create the latch circuit. If I remember your schematic that is what you had done so a Pilz unit is not critical.
This relay in turn drives the 'Allen Bradley' unit. This is a contactor and is a purpose built relay (with lots of features as m_c posted on recently). It uses 24V DC to switch 240V AC. When the control box is turned on you have to press the reset button to latch the 24V circuit. This then sends 24V DC to the contactor signal terminals, which in turn switch the mains (L) and (N) feed to the linear power supply. This in turn powers all the drivers at about 70V DC.
As has been pointed out by others, you could use a normal relay instead to switch the mains so long as it can take the current. I have a linear PSU with high in-rush current so didn't want to go that route. Maybe SMPS is lower in-rush and would be OK - but I'm not an expert.
I had to size my MCBs with some trial and error, and forum advice, to meet my particular needs. You will have to decide if 4A and 10A are what you need in your case, or ask for further advice on those.
2 Weeks Ago #115
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