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  1. #1
    Today i started my very own rockcliff machine cnc router build, so far i have cut all the parts from MDF.

    I only have basic hand tools, so should be intresting to see how i get on.

    Below is some pics of the parts all cut ready for the next stage, next i will be drilling each part with pilot holes ready for assembly and so on. The rockcliff machine can be simply glued, however i will be using wood screws for mine. The guys over at rockcliff have now also updated the plans to use screws and consider it a good move.
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    Last edited by Lee Roberts; 20-08-2010 at 12:19 AM.
    .Me

  2. #2
    ok so I got the base all marked up and drilled ready for assembly, I have also built the base ready for the next stage (see picks).

    You can see from the picks that I have marked out all my drill points and then drilled them, we have also used a bigger drill bit to skink the screw heads (5mm) this will help when we come to place other parts over the top of the screw heads and is a must really if you’re looking to do the same and use screws on your build.

    There is the option then to also fill the holes if you would prefer a flushed finish. (I may do this at the end of the build, not too sure yet :)) With the screws giving such a good hold we have decided not to glue unless we have to, this will help if I do need to disassemble the machine for let’s say relocation or a paint finish.

    Again it is advised that you pre-dill your screw holes as the MDF will have the tendency to split and this isn't really any good. Once everything was screwed together I gave all the edges a good sanding down just to flush everything off that little bit (see picks).

    The screws I have used are Fermacell Cross-Slot Screws 3.9 x 30mm; you can buy these from places like jewson.co.uk or travisperkins.co.uk. Most other wood screws would do a good job, I just happened to have a box of these in stock and found them to work well with MDF, they are designed to be used for Dry Lining.

    I have also added to the base, two additional TABLE SUPPORT PLATE's these are not really a must I just decided I would add these to the design to give that little bit more rigidity and surface contact. I used additional MDF for making the extra table support plates. (see picks)
    Well that’s it for now onto the next stage, if I was to build the base again I would more than likely mitre all the joints on the base and maybe add a 3rd table support plate in the middle of the base.
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    Last edited by Lee Roberts; 20-08-2010 at 12:24 AM.
    .Me

  3. #3
    Ok well today was a busy one for me so I didnít really get much done today, I did manage to get something done however.

    Today I realized I have misplaced my spade wood bits in a recent house move so Iíve now ordered some new ones and they should be with me soon enough, I got some in a nice wood box to help keep them together for one and as I like to look after my stuff (lol yea right, is that why youíve lost your others?!).

    Anyway moving on, here you can see Iíve fitted my Y-Axis Rod End Support Plates. If your building this machine or using MDF for your build I cant stress enough that you should use screws as well, be sure not to over tighten your screws as I found out today one too many turns equals a split in your work piece. Iíve also added side screws to my Table Support plates.
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    Last edited by Lee Roberts; 20-08-2010 at 12:36 AM.
    .Me

  4. #4
    The machine's looking good so far! What are you doing about the electronics and linear hardware?

    I built a set of the micro-stepping 3977 boards from PMinMO, and I'm fettling with relatively small ex-printer (cliche I know) steppers combined with turbocnc at the moment to get a feel for the motor driving art.

    I've spent some time trawling catalogues from many companies and I'm starting to think that the 'rockcliff packs' that Marchant Dice do are good value... Any thoughts on this?

    I wonder if it might be worthwhile getting together with other builders to get better prices on the linear side of things? Internet strangers, I know, I know, ;)

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by SirMorris
    The machine's looking good so far! What are you doing about the electronics and linear hardware?
    Welcome to the forums, take a look at this post Visit Post looks like the link I’ve posted sell the 3977 that you have built. Tell me about your DIY controllers I’m very interested in how you got on with the building of them and how easy you see them to make, read my post you’ll understand why this is interesting for me right now.
    Last edited by Lee Roberts; 20-08-2010 at 12:37 AM.
    .Me

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by SirMorris
    I've spent some time trawling catalogues from many companies and I'm starting to think that the 'rockcliff packs' that Marchant Dice do are good value... Any thoughts on this?
    The same as that there trading on eBay to, I’m only going to be doing really light work most of the time and I’m thinking that the 1/2" rods will do for what I need. To be confirmed!

    I got this email from David - cncbasher

    Hi lee
    yes the larger the rail the better , but dont go too mad marchantdice are expensive if you dont check everything

    so i did some checkin

    16mm Ground rod is about £6.50 a foot , i recon you need 12' , so working an that assumption his prices are not bad concidering their heavy and any metal being sent by post is expensive

    hollow tube and bearings can be used as per the JGRO router on cnczone but it dpends on what you call LIGHT !

    i'd go for the rods myself , it's money well spent in the long run but yes i know what you mean , you need to look after the pennies but using tube will give you all sorts of troubles , and by the time you've sorted it all out you'll have wasted quite a bit on time and money which you'll no doubt spend later
    Link to marchantdice on eBay, post up your build log if all you’ve got is the parts right now load some picks and list them it’s getting lonely being the only one with a build log. Seems quite a few builders are waiting to get all their parts before they start on anything, I’m looking to get my machine built as soon as.

    I may just be different and I am currently looking to use this machine to automate the production of some products I currently make by hand as I cant fill the orders quick enough right now.
    Last edited by Lee Roberts; 20-08-2010 at 12:39 AM.
    .Me

  7. #7
    The boards I made were from a bare PCB that I bought from PMinMO.com. I didn't design them, just nailed them together :lol:

    I can't say how they rank amongst the collection of DIY drivers out there but I am more than happy. They're microstepping chopper boards that appear to be well liked.

    I recommend this site for its knowledge base, it's a good jumping-off point for learning about drivers.

    I briefly thought about using less expensive (hollow) shaft but fully supporting it. But I think if Rockcliff had thought this a good thing to do to reduce costs, they'd have said so... Care to comment on that Nick?!


    I'll post pictures of what I've got so far on Monday or so.

  8. #8
    Yea fair point about rockcliff! I’ve decided to buy already built drivers now anyway.

    After chatting with you and looking at the other choices I decided that www.routoutcnc.com was the best choice for me, you can read about my new drivers below:


    Microstepping Bipolar Stepper Motor Driver:
    The RoutOut CNC stepper motor drive has many uses including for CNC retrofitting / robot control or driving you own CNC machine. It is simple to wire and operates with no external current setting resistors needed. The RoutOut CNC stepper motor driver is a single axis, pulse width modulated (PWM), Micro-stepping Bipolar driver with Full / Half / Quarter / Eighth stepping capabilities.

    It is directly compatible with all of the major CNC software including but not limited to RoutOut CNC ,Turbo CNC, Mach 2, Mach1, KCam, Ability systems – LPT Indexer, etc., the list goes on.

    Features:
    • 2.5 A 30V Output Drive Capabilities.
    • 3V to 5V logic inputs.
    • Synchronous Rectification for low power / heat dissipation
    • Internal UVLO and Thermal shutdown circuitry.
    • Small PCB foot print only 66mm x 77mm
    • Internal 5V logic driver onboard (no need for 5v Supply)
    • Enable – Turns the motor off when not being driven.

    For a wiring diagram for use with Routout CNC see the PDF File (Link Below).
    Microstepping Bipolar Stepper Motor Driver
    Routout 25 Way D Quick Connect:
    The Routout CNC 25 Way D Breakout has many uses including for CNC retrofitting / robot control. It allows you to wire to the parallel port / LPT port using screw terminals, this makes wiring limit / sensing switches to you CNC machine a breeze.

    Features:
    • All connected printer I/O lines have screw terminal connector.
    • Very easy to wire limit / control switches.

    For a wiring diagram for use with Routout CNC see the PDF File (Link Below).
    Routout CNC Quick Connect 25 Way D PDF
    I managed to get this lot for £86.49 Inc P&P, they do charge more on their web site (£130.00 Inc P&P) but if you go to their eBay shop you can pick these up for less. They have a fast email response and seem like a good choice with just 2-3 days for a delivery, you can find there eBay link by Clicking Here!

    Cheers and thanks again.
    Last edited by Lee Roberts; 20-08-2010 at 12:44 AM.
    .Me

  9. #9
    Tuesday, i recived my RoutOut CNC 3 Axis Driver Kit, how excited was i !

    From start to finish purchasing from Mike Gaylor over at RoutOut CNC was fantastic! I was very impressed with how everything was packaged and the products themselves.

    I would recommend anyone looking for motor drives to go with Routout CNC; email response was second to none, there after sales support is top-notch.

    Ok, lets see what is in the box.
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    Last edited by Lee Roberts; 20-08-2010 at 12:54 AM.
    .Me

  10. #10
    Picked up my Bearings, Nuts and threaded rod today. O and some 6mm washers!

    The stuff I got was all stainless steel. I would recommend you get the same for your builds, its more expensive for stainless but you’re getting what you pay for.
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    Last edited by Lee Roberts; 20-08-2010 at 12:57 AM.
    .Me

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