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  1. #11
    Clive S's Avatar
    Lives in Marple Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 19 Hours Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 3,333. Received thanks 618 times, giving thanks to others 78 times. Made a monetary donation to the upkeep of the community. Is a beta tester for Machinists Network features.
    Wal Another fine job as usual but only 85% you are slipping
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  2. #12
    Wal's Avatar
    Lives in Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 30-03-2023 Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 491. Received thanks 71 times, giving thanks to others 29 times.
    Heh, cheers Clive. Yeah, I need to work on the technique with this method - I'll get there eventually...!

    Wal.

  3. #13
    Wal's Avatar
    Lives in Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 30-03-2023 Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 491. Received thanks 71 times, giving thanks to others 29 times.
    Finally had a bit of success using the pressure tank - it still leaks but using the compressor as a remote tank keeps it topped up for long enough to do its job. Bubbles sufficiently minimised - well , I can't see any... It's still important to prod the epoxy into the nooks and crannies - the pressure won't force the epoxy into any left-over voids in corners, as I discovered on an earlier test piece.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The MANTIS badges have been belt-sanded flush, I did attempt to polish one of 'em but the finish was rather patchy - heh - it's difficult to get a decent consistency across a larger surface using small mops on a press-drill... smaller stuff (like the skulls) come out a treat, though.

    Wal.

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Wal View Post
    Finally had a bit of success using the pressure tank - it still leaks but using the compressor as a remote tank keeps it topped up for long enough to do its job. Bubbles sufficiently minimised - well , I can't see any... It's still important to prod the epoxy into the nooks and crannies - the pressure won't force the epoxy into any left-over voids in corners, as I discovered on an earlier test piece.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	tumblr_oc8ajrslYx1r7uds7o1_1280.jpg 
Views:	364 
Size:	179.5 KB 
ID:	19104 Click image for larger version. 

Name:	tumblr_ocoyarye041r7uds7o5_1280.jpg 
Views:	407 
Size:	243.8 KB 
ID:	19105 Click image for larger version. 

Name:	tumblr_ocp1bg9uxH1r7uds7o1_1280.jpg 
Views:	442 
Size:	213.2 KB 
ID:	19106

    The MANTIS badges have been belt-sanded flush, I did attempt to polish one of 'em but the finish was rather patchy - heh - it's difficult to get a decent consistency across a larger surface using small mops on a press-drill... smaller stuff (like the skulls) come out a treat, though.

    Wal.
    Hi Wal
    If you warm the epoxy up it'll get thinner and run into the corners better. Vacuum chamber would also help reduce bubbles.

    Cheers
    Andrew

  5. #15
    I do quite a bit of resin filling, the resin I use is as thin as water until it sets and I have no trouble getting it in to the finest detail, I apply my resin using a dropper and a syringe for very small detail. I work mainly on glass and stone but it works equally well for metal, Can be baked in an oven as well for fast curing.
    The resin is 2 part and i can adjust the opacity and colour using colourants, also get some very good effects using colours as you would a water painting.

  6. #16
    Wal's Avatar
    Lives in Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 30-03-2023 Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 491. Received thanks 71 times, giving thanks to others 29 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by alboy View Post
    I do quite a bit of resin filling, the resin I use is as thin as water until it sets and I have no trouble getting it in to the finest detail, I apply my resin using a dropper and a syringe for very small detail. I work mainly on glass and stone but it works equally well for metal, Can be baked in an oven as well for fast curing.
    The resin is 2 part and i can adjust the opacity and colour using colourants, also get some very good effects using colours as you would a water painting.
    Interesting - thanks for the tips guys. I've heard about flashing the epoxy with a blowtorch after pouring - not tried it as yet, but warming it up seems like a good idea. Alboy, what resin are you using? I use the stuff from Cookson Gold and it's pretty thick stuff - certainly too thick to apply via a syringe. Currently I'm using a cocktail stick and dripping the resin in off the point - and then using the point to push in to the nooks...

    Wal.

    Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

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