Thread: Giant 20' x 3' x 2' router build
Great thes good news! Many thanks indeed I will change switch 123and 4 then re auto tune. I'm still trying to down load a driver (see other thread) and when I figure that I will ajust the Amps
Now I'm slowly starting to understand it a little more I'm Just wondering if I can improve the x axis as well with the kinco drive as we have noticed it is a bit notchy at the slower speed at ether end of the cuts so just wondering what I should have the micro steps set at for that? It is running a 4:1 ratio (yet to sort out the 6:1 box) I will take a look at what the other seting we have it set at tomorrow. Realy apresiate your patience!
So continuing with the above post the x axis is set switch 1 to zero which is only 2micro steps and switch 2 to three which I think is right which is the 6a peak setting for the 8nm nema 34 and like I say at slow movements at ether end of the boards I'm cutting is quite lumpy and at full speed it still looks like it is hardly working. Can I up the micro steps on the x and possibly the y and z too? How do you determine what they need to be at?
Problem with high micro steps is that you need much higher number of pulses(frequency or Kernal speed in Mach3) to get the same speed or move the same distance. Normally with the parallel port this becomes a problem because it's too much strain on it with higher MS and can't cope so you get missed steps etc.
You how ever listened to uncle Jazz and bought Motion control card and a very good one to boot. So you can crank up the MS and not worry to much.
So set the MS to at least 1600 (sw3 or 8 micro steps) or 3200(sw5) wouldn't hurt (thou 1600 is good enough.) and listen to the difference and you'll also see it when going very slow.
Edit: With the Csmio-IP-M card the Kernal speed in mach is ignored so leave it set at 25Khz.
Last edited by JAZZCNC; 24-12-2014 at 09:22 AM.
Great many thanks uncle jazz haha I have now changed the ms and it sounds way better . Back to the em806 drives and we have just measures the idle current and it seams switch 4 half current needs to be set to off it went from 1v to 1/2 at standstill this also matches what it says on the side of the drive.
well glad I could help you out with that all seams to be running smother now especially on the x. it has just cut out right towards the end of the test but I had upped the speeds a bit so will try backing them off again.
Last edited by charlieuk; 24-12-2014 at 12:59 PM.
I finally got the driver installed on the pc to use pro tune so I can now set things up a bit better hopefully. I have to set the switches to on so guess I will have to re set the amps micro steps and idle current in there and then do the manual calibration? there seams to be quite a lot of other stuff that you can set that I don't have a clue about, is it anything I need to worry about? any tips ?
Yes set everyhting up in System Config screen first but then you tune the drives thru software using the current loop tuning screen.
In here you can play with the settings or just use Auto which is same as flicking dip switch 4.
99% of time auto works fine so I'd just use that.
In the System Config screen don't worry about the sliders etc they are for tuning resonance and unless you have any problems the default settings will work fine.
The main settings your interested in are at the top. Peak Cur(A) and micro steps. The others you can leave at defaults.
One other setting you may need to change when your setting up the Fault signal to activate the E-stop is the Alarm Signal Low - High option. This will depend on how you do it but often you have to toggle this so it activates when state goes High.
Dip switch 4 is a good option as jazz says, I use it mainly because it's a pain trying to plug into the drivers, if only they'd put that socket on the frontSpelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted
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