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  1. #41
    Its the torch!

    The new hand-torch cuts perfectly, 10mm steel, 45A, nice clean cut, dross falls of easy. 20A on 1.5mm steel cut very well, couldn't move the torch fast enough really!

    They are looking into what is wrong with the machine torch now.

  2. #42
    Well, i'm getting baffled again, the new torch arrived this morning and results seem to be better but something is still wrong.

    In this picture...


    The long cut is made at 20A @ 4000mm/min, its a nice fine cut about 0.5mm kerf with zero dross front and back.

    After that success I thought I'd load up a little test file i've been messing around with and try that after editing the sheetcam settings to suit the new parameters...


    Now, this was the second run as the first one at 4000mm/min was worse so i dropped to 3750mm/min but all i got was a pile of dross and partial cuts.

    Both tests were pierced at 4mm (mfg recommendation) and cut at 1.75mm (mfg says 1.5 - 2.0mm)

    Now this tells me that something is badly wrong but my lack of experience does not tell me what.

    Any pointers here???

    Also, I have set a pierce delay of 0.1 sec in sheetcam but mach3 seems to stay for at least a second or so.???

  3. #43
    It seems its power related, just did the same test at 30A and got this...
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Pretty clean cut, got some axis wobble to tackle but the cut is pretty good i think.

    Still can't understand why it cuts straight lines at 20A but needs 30A to do shapes?

    Also cant get the pierce delay down, its way too long and I only have 0.1s set in sheetcam.

  4. #44
    This is 10mm steel @ 50A and 470mm/min
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Its an excellent cut but im not sure if its below speed for CNC plasma as i have no experience here.

    This machine should cut 18mm edge-start @ 50A and 150mm/min so im not sure if this result is on-par or below???

  5. #45
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 6 Hours Ago Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 1,833. Received thanks 192 times, giving thanks to others 5 times.
    The cuts with lots of slag, look like you're going too slow, with the result you're getting a wide cut, with possibly a lack of air flow to blow the molten metal away.
    Stupid question, but is the base of your table open? Some of the cuts almost look like you're trying to cut over a sealed base, with the result the air is blowing back up.
    .
    The 10mm cut looks good. I'll admit I'm a bit dubious about the quoted specs, as I've got a 60A cutter that is rated at 12mm, and that is it's limit. It will cut 1/2", however it's definetly not a clean cut, with there being a noticeable trailing edge at the bottom of the cut.

  6. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by Davek0974 View Post
    It seems its power related, just did the same test at 30A and got this...
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	davek0974-albums-problems-picture15121-photo.jpg 
Views:	80 
Size:	387.9 KB 
ID:	11868

    Pretty clean cut, got some axis wobble to tackle but the cut is pretty good i think.
    .
    This one seems better i think?
    The rough ones were made at too low power (20A).

    Yes the bed is an open slat type, no water bath.

    My main issue at present is electrical interference issues, I am severely struggling with this matter.

    My main interest is 1-6mm steel so ultimate thickness is not relevant but they do rate it at 18mm cut.!

  7. #47
    Good news (at last)

    With the breakout board powered by a little 9v battery, I have just managed to make 20 test cuts in a row without the slightest hint of a glitch. These were a mess of 20mm circles and straight gashes across the now perforated sheet which is pretty tough as it causes the pilot to reignite in each gap.

    I think that pretty much 100% rules out inducted and radiated interference and leaves power-line transmitted muck to deal with.

    Bear in mind that these tests were carried out with the cabinet door open and the battery dangling outside it.


    The next set of questions are,

    1 - what PSU do I build/buy/rob ?

    2 - I have some small transformers, bridge rectifiers and various capacitors here so should i just go basic transformer-bridge-cap-board or more complicated?

    3 - the cabinet also houses the PSU for the motors and a small one for the control circuit relays, should i filter the incoming supply to the whole cabinet OR just to the board supply?

    I'm getting close now, just a little more to sort.

  8. I'd try a cheap 9v wall-wart from Maplin or similar and see how that behaves...

  9. #49
    Quote Originally Posted by Davek0974 View Post
    Good news (at last)

    With the breakout board powered by a little 9v battery,
    Buy 2-3 sets of 9V re-chargable battery's and swap each cut. .. . . . .But maybe Irving's suggestion is better.

  10. #50
    It's working, I threw together a small transformer, bridge rectifier, couple of caps and a 7812 regulator, fitted a three-line mains filter and it's alive and kicking at last.

    made plenty of cuts and it just carried on going :)

    thanks for for the tips.


    that brings me on to my next thread :(

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