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  1. #41
    Quote Originally Posted by FlyHighRC View Post
    Do you have a link to these linear rails?
    No I don't but just use the Hi-win rails for the model has the spec is virtually the same, height, width etc. If you PM me an email address then I can email you SW files for them.
    If you want exact dimensions to model them let me know and I can measure some I have here.

  2. #42
    I would like to add that in terms of precision welds, I am most likely going to be taking the parts to a machine shop where they will have all the nessesary jigs and fixtures to avoid distortion if i were to tackle this myself. The ideally make the holes for the rails ever so slightly larger than required to give some wiggle room :)

  3. #43
    I would like to add that in terms of precision welds, I am most likely going to be taking the parts to a machine shop where they will have all the nessesary jigs and fixtures to avoid distortion if i were to tackle this myself.
    you dont need to be to exreem about the wields, as long as its sort of level on the top, and measures square ( you will see any twists when cutting the steel into parts, its easy to avoid any visible distortions, just use the best bits for the top ). I did the same as your suggesting though, i got a firm to do the welding, after i had cut and marked the pieces.

    Epoxy does most of the rest,

  4. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by george uk View Post
    you dont need to be to exreem about the wields, as long as its sort of level on the top, and measures square ( you will see any twists when cutting the steel into parts, its easy to avoid any visible distortions, just use the best bits for the top ). I did the same as your suggesting though, i got a firm to do the welding, after i had cut and marked the pieces.

    Epoxy does most of the rest,

    Sounds good :) hopefully i can make a start on the design soon...Just need to pick the rails i want as i can then design the machine around these. 1000 by 600/700 linear rails...know where I can get me some? :D
    Last edited by FlyHighRC; 04-06-2014 at 02:34 PM.

  5. #45
    Wal's Avatar
    Lives in Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 4 Days Ago Has been a member for 5-6 years. Has a total post count of 318. Received thanks 29 times, giving thanks to others 13 times.
    I can't really recommend an epoxy as I haven't used this particular technique, but as I understand it does need certain properties for it to work..

    Firstly, to be clear - I'm not talking about the method used on this build:

    My First Router, Built in Steel - Page 17

    The method I'm referring to is the one where once the frame is assembled/welded, a couple of channels are built onto the rail bearing surfaces (the channels don't need a bottom as the surface of the frame will serve that purpose) these channels are joined by a bridge (probably more than one, which will - of course - need a bottom). Once the frame is reasonably level and the epoxy is poured in, the bridge(s) ensure that the epoxy on both sides of the frame sets at the same height. Once everything's hard, take away the channels/bridges, scrape away the meniscus and voila - parallel, same height rail mounting surfaces.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    A few folk on here have used this method and will be able to elucidate further.

    Wal.
    Last edited by Wal; 04-06-2014 at 03:23 PM. Reason: Added info.

  6. #46
    This is my frame in my works...you can see the epoxy on the top...my problem us that I was a numpty and was rushing and got the mix wrong so its not hard enough.....





    Sent from my Galaxy S5
    Last edited by njhussey; 04-06-2014 at 08:08 PM.
    Neil...

    Build log...here

  7. #47
    Cool guys, How deep are those channels? Epoxy can be very expensive...and sueply you'd only need a couple mm max!

    Can you guys please point me in the direction of linear guider off 1000mm x 600/700mm please :)

    Seems not many people know where to find em

  8. #48
    Wal's Avatar
    Lives in Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 4 Days Ago Has been a member for 5-6 years. Has a total post count of 318. Received thanks 29 times, giving thanks to others 13 times.
    >Cool guys, How deep are those channels?

    They don't need to be as deep as I've illustrated 'em - I think 2mm would be under-doing it a bit - mix too little (or if the frame's level is slightly off) and you're maybe gonna end up with bald-spots... I'd calculate for a 5mm thickness of epoxy and don't forget to make the channel wide enough so that the resulting strip of epoxy supports the full width of the rail.

    That's about the extent of my knowledge regarding this technique - someone will be along soon to better advise!

    Wal.
    Last edited by Wal; 04-06-2014 at 08:25 PM.

  9. #49
    Hey guys, are these compatible?

    HGR20 Rail

    Hiwin HGH20 Square Carriage

    Wont be buying them from here, but nice to know i can if needed for whatever reason

  10. #50
    Wal's Avatar
    Lives in Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 4 Days Ago Has been a member for 5-6 years. Has a total post count of 318. Received thanks 29 times, giving thanks to others 13 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by FlyHighRC View Post
    Hey guys, are these compatible?
    Yep, should be fine - they appear in each others related items but before buying anything check compatibility via brochures and then double check with the vendor. It's pretty head spinning when you first start looking at the catalogues etc, but after a while drilling down through the relevant info becomes a lot more straightforward. Probably best to ask questions here about the physical characteristics (pitches of screws etc.) of the hardware you want to acquire and whether it'll suit your needs but don't rely on opinions regarding compatibility - although the guys on here are amongst the most helpful and knowledgeable in the community, it's always best to double check yourself..!

    Wal.

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