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  1. #11
    OK so now I have another question reguarding hobby type machines.

    Limited in space so the type of machines I have been looking at are.
    Denford Triac, boxford and emco 55 for milling, was also looking at the syil/ sieg 3 has last resort. Turning would need to machine 70mm dia stock material size would be 75 pos 80 dia. So not sure what CNC lathe would fit the bill, both need to hold a tolerance of 0.05 max.

    Now how hard would it be to machine this on the said machines, the turning was done on a manual myford ML7 milling was done at work so not really an option to mill these again.

    But would like to machine these for production, not a massive production run but not a 1 off.

    Turned on ML7









    Milled at work well drilled on PCD



    Milled the ninja star looking things







    So would like options on the best type hobby machines to fit the bill please, also would be a new user to cad/cam mach3 or what ever is the best to machine the 3d part.

    Thanks

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    Last edited by Dean jeffery; 08-06-2014 at 11:01 AM.

  2. #12
    Very impressive. I never could have turned that on my old Myford. Well done . G.

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by GEOFFREY View Post
    Very impressive. I never could have turned that on my old Myford. Well done . G.
    Cheers Geoffrey

    Doing them manually just take a load more time, cut check cut ckeck untill you have what you want.

    The only real time was making the bearing size, because if this was over size then it's scrap and not an option. The rest would have a plus and minus of a thou so not to bad, and that is just what I planned on getting them. +/- of 0.05 would be fine.

    Still leaves me with no options on what CNC's to buy for making these though.



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  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Dean jeffery View Post
    So would like options on the best type hobby machines to fit the bill please, also would be a new user to cad/cam mach3 or what ever is the best to machine the 3d part.
    Hold on here.!! . . . . Your saying your a new user to Cad and you drew that Ninja Star looking thing which aint a simple part for beginner and then Milled it manually.? If so then well done. You certainly won't have any trouble working a CNC machine. Unfortunatly I can't help with best machine.

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    Hold on here.!! . . . . Your saying your a new user to Cad and you drew that Ninja Star looking thing which aint a simple part for beginner and then Milled it manually.? If so then well done. You certainly won't have any trouble working a CNC machine. Unfortunatly I can't help with best machine.
    No lol I will explain but was a replie to Geoffrey.

    The part was manually machined on a myford ML7 this is an old english made lathe, mine was 65 years old.

    Then I asked the programmer at work to make it look like this but better, IE needs to be thinner to lose some weight but look good at the same time.

    The alloy 1 weighs 66 gram Titanium 68.5g

    The original alloy part looks like this



    So the ninja type is what he came up with, the style, shape and programme was not me.
    The only thing I did was machine it, hence saying milled at work. But clearly was CNC lol, no manual millers at work.

    I can do basic programming on both lathes and millers, but 3d is well out of my league.

    Never seen anything cad/cam only on watching tube vids over the last view weeks.

    If space was not an issue it would be a simple choice to make, but limited in space limits the machine needed.

    Also how easy would it be to replicate that drawing above, for me new user, or for anybody who knows what they are doing lol.

    Thanks



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    Last edited by Dean jeffery; 09-06-2014 at 11:21 AM.

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Dean jeffery View Post
    Also how easy would it be to replicate that drawing above, for me new user, or for anybody who knows what they are doing lol.
    Well for a new user then probably bit of challenge but for someone used to Cad then no problem as you can see with the picture below which i've just knocked up in less than 15mins from your pics and obviously would have been quicker if I had dimensions to work from. Creating tool paths would be another 10-15mins.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ninja.jpg 
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    Now obviously I'm quite experienced and using Solid works which is highend software and really this is the problem most new users have.? Software makes all the difference and having software that's taylored to the type of work your doing really helps. For instance ArtCam could be used to create the 3D toolpaths for this part but it's more woodworking based so the 3D toolpaths it provides will not be optimal. Where has Solid CAM which again is highend CAM software gives much more options regards 3D toolpaths.
    Now both these programs are Highend in there own fields so it highlights why having software suited the type of parts your making will help. When you get to the lower end cheaper software you have Even less options regards 3D toolpaths so it becomes more important to find one that suits the type of work your doing.

    Hope this helps.
    Last edited by JAZZCNC; 08-06-2014 at 08:47 PM.

  7. #17
    Cheers for that yes it does help, means I've no chance of doing it lol.
    But around half hr is not a lot of time, clearly this is the most technical part 3d wise I would need to make it's only for RC use.
    They do sell alloy diff cases that would need 3d but would be easy than above.
    Would also need editing but dint want to ask, the arms would look better if they was smoothed out into the dia.

    Size of the stock could be given, the outa dia was 68mm but has left rads on the out side of the bolt holes. But at the time this was not a problem looking at the alloy version, but if I was to make these again then the dia would need to be 69.5 then I could get a full cycle around the bolt hole and would look evan better.

    Thanks for the info

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    Last edited by Dean jeffery; 08-06-2014 at 08:38 PM.

  8. #18
    JAZZCNC

    Just looked at the solid cam software, for DIY hobby use this is way out of my league just on price. Then I beleave you have to pay a subscription on a yearly basis, any other options that's with in reach for what I need it to do.

    Cheers



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  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Dean jeffery View Post
    Just looked at the solid cam software, for DIY hobby use this is way out of my league just on price. Then I beleave you have to pay a subscription on a yearly basis, any other options that's with in reach for what I need it to do.
    Yes unfortunatly I know and wasn't suggesting you used SolidCam the point I was trying to make was the quality of the software you use greatly impacts how is or hard it is to make parts. Also choosing software which is aimed towards the type of work your mainly doing helps as they have toolpath stratergies more suited with larger range of options. This is Esp true with 3D software.
    Unfortunatly there is no one software that does all great. If mostly 3D work then Deskproto is about the best IMO at hobby level thou it lacks at 2D. Cam Bam is another ok run of the mill software. Then you have the Vectric and Delcam offerings but they tend to be leaning towards wood side with cutting stratergies more suited to that type of work. Dolphin Cam and MeshCam are also Ok softwares in the Mid price range but really your going to have to do some research and look around looking at will suit your needs best.

  10. #20
    OK thanks I will do some researching

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