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  1. #41
    PAULRO's Avatar
    Lives in LIMERICK, Ireland. Last Activity: 3 Weeks Ago Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 178. Received thanks 2 times, giving thanks to others 198 times.
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    the frame is nearly finished. i have to weld in the table locators on each side and give it a lick of paint. it looks big ( it is ) but i said to myself that i may need upgradeability considering the growth of the DIY cncs over the past number of years and the bigger routers that are coming on stream.
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    i also welded the electric cabinet frame together, 800 x 600 x 200 deep ( just under 3 lengths of 20 x 20 angle). i have 1mm galvanize to sheet it and some hinges knocking about somewhere.
    the frame and cabinet should be finished by next weekend and then i'll get a moat organised for the dreaded epoxy pour!!

  2. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by PAULRO View Post
    Z1: 0-0.02C or Z2: 0.02C-0.05C . i'm sure either of these will do the job but would like to know which preload is the preferred choice for wood routers.
    You get a slight increase in stiffness with higher preload, at the expense of lower life and higher driving force. For a wood router the change in stiffness is negligible compared to other parts of the system, so I'd go with Z1.
    Old router build log here. New router build log here. Lathe build log here.
    Electric motorbike project here.

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  4. #43
    PAULRO's Avatar
    Lives in LIMERICK, Ireland. Last Activity: 3 Weeks Ago Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 178. Received thanks 2 times, giving thanks to others 198 times.
    At long last the very kind people in shannon customs have released my profiles and ballscrews,i can now start in the next phase of the build.
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    Last edited by PAULRO; 30-09-2014 at 07:43 PM.

  5. #44
    PAULRO's Avatar
    Lives in LIMERICK, Ireland. Last Activity: 3 Weeks Ago Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 178. Received thanks 2 times, giving thanks to others 198 times.
    Well at long last I can get back to the build of this baby. i had to take a break and head abroad for a time but i'm back now with a clear run for the next few months . i poured the epoxy and left it cure for 72 hours and i'm pleased with the result. i had a heater running and had the cubicle locked up to control the heat. it has some air bubbles but i can live with that.
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    Last edited by PAULRO; 14-01-2015 at 12:15 AM.

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  7. #45
    PAULRO's Avatar
    Lives in LIMERICK, Ireland. Last Activity: 3 Weeks Ago Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 178. Received thanks 2 times, giving thanks to others 198 times.
    I assembled the gantry and attached the bottom linear guide with its housing plate. i then used this to mount a hand held router and skim the the top linear slide bed. i took 0.4 mm deep across the entire length to ensure parallelism. it turned out o.k. but the weight of the router left an angle on the base so used the z axis assemble instead to machine it again and it turned out pretty good.
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    Last edited by PAULRO; 14-01-2015 at 12:24 AM.

  8. #46
    PAULRO's Avatar
    Lives in LIMERICK, Ireland. Last Activity: 3 Weeks Ago Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 178. Received thanks 2 times, giving thanks to others 198 times.
    i have the z axis built and assembled and i have the pulleys drilled and reamed ready to go but i rotated a ball nut to far and the bearings started to fall out so now i'm left with a basin of bearings and an empty ball nut . i have looked on line for some tutorial to enlighten me on the re-assembly but cannot find any thing.
    the ballnut has 6 plastic change overs in it , 3 pairs at 180 degrees to each other . the ball nut is a 16 x 10 pitch with a double start thread. if any body has any experience of these i would be very obliged at this stage . i'm itching to get back at this build and move on to the electrics,

    thanks in advance , Paulro

    i will post more pics tomorrow once i have the ball nut assembled.
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    Last edited by PAULRO; 14-01-2015 at 12:43 AM.

  9. #47
    You should be able to find examples on this forum - plenty of us have made that mistake!

    Two ways I've found that work well:

    1) Put grease on the balls to stick them to the nut, then gradually insert the retaining tube as you go to support them.
    2) Put the biggest magnet you can find on the ballnut, so the balls stick to it in side. Carefully place them in the right place with something non-magnetic.
    Old router build log here. New router build log here. Lathe build log here.
    Electric motorbike project here.

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  11. #48
    Lee Roberts's Avatar
    Lives in Wigan, United Kingdom. Current Activity: Viewing Moderator Control Panel Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 2,545. Received thanks 161 times, giving thanks to others 652 times. Made a monetary donation to the upkeep of the community. Referred 10 members to the community.
    Last edited by Lee Roberts; 14-01-2015 at 01:02 AM.
    .Me

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  13. #49
    I like the idea of skimming the top with a router, provided the bottom rail is perfectly flat.

    Same ball trouble here, this was the best video I found, the method worked great.

    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

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  15. #50
    PAULRO's Avatar
    Lives in LIMERICK, Ireland. Last Activity: 3 Weeks Ago Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 178. Received thanks 2 times, giving thanks to others 198 times.
    The grease did the trick ok. 3 circuits, 16 balls ( dia. of 0.1245") in the first two and 17 in the last . it took a couple of trys but i got there. so cheers for the advice and videos links, very informative. the extrusion i used had a slight angle on the broad side and an incline on the narrow side .it played havoc with my assembly so i had to re- machine some supports and change the design of the gantry. i also spent a fair bit of time on the bottom Y rail to get it flat.

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