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  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by njhussey View Post
    Yeah, mines not been the same since taking it off, not even sure why I took it off now...gave up trying to get it back to where it was before ;)
    I'll post some pictures later but I can report that the aluminium depth stop is just a cover over the top of the spring. When I took it off the spring mechanism underneath was un-affected.
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  2. #12
    Some updates. First of all taking the cover off is no big deal - the spring mechanism is not affected:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    .
    I noticed that the casting was not great with some flash around the holes so I filled them flush:
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    .
    Then I had a look behind the electrical box on the front - glad I did as one of the wires had been trapped by one of the plastic ribs:
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    I re-seated it so the cable was free.
    .
    Then I drilled and tapped the casing to take an angle bracket, then squared it up with the chuck (to try to get them parallel to each other and keep the DRO accurate):
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    .
    Then I machined up a plate bracket, bolted a piece of extrusion to the plate, then mounted the DRO:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    .
    Then I used a couple of M6 rose joints and threaded rod to join the DRO to the quill depth stop arm. This is because I couldn't be sure that the DRO would be absolutely parallel to the quill and didn't want to side load the slider. Also there is a tiny bit of play in the quill when extended which would also load the slider. Keeping the rod long minimises any error:
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    Here it is fully extended:
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    .
    I had to cut a bit off the end of the spring cover / depth stop casting so it didn't hit the DRO slider.
    .
    Works a treat - the quill can be locked off at any depth by setting the nut on the underside of the depth stop threaded rod, or a maximum depth can be set by the nut on the top side of the threaded rod. Only probably is that the DRO readout slider resonates/buzzes quite loudly when the drill is running. I'll have a look and see if there is a pre-load set screw somewhere to take out the play.
    .
    ________
    .
    On a related note I also managed to knock up a drill press table with fence, hold down mini-clamps, horizontal clamps, and G-clamp options, plus there will be a production-stop on the fence for repeat jobs. Centre pocket is to take a 60x60x18 mini spoil board which can be replaced when it is full of holes.
    .
    Here it is being machined, then some of the bits trial fitted:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    .
    And here it is with a trial fit on the drill press (still need to add bracket to the underside to hold it onto the table):
    Click image for larger version. 

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    .
    Got one of these Bessey clamps on order - it will sit on a wooden batton and be adjustable fore/aft:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    .
    Plus thinking about adding a pair of drill press vices which sit either side of the chuck centre - makes it easy to drill angle plate, or hold long thin parts on edge. Again the pair of vices would be mounted on a wooden batton which can then adjust fore/aft.
    .
    Should be enough clamping options there I think !
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

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  4. #13
    Final bits of the drill press table finished.

    CNC machined 3off mini spoil board to go in the pocket in the middle of the table. Missed a trick here and should have offset the pocket to one side or fore/aft of the drilling point. Then you can rotate the mini spoil board around 90 degrees and get a fresh surface. Oh well.

    Here it is in position. Took a guess and made it 59.7 x 59.7 (for a 60 x 60 pocket) and it is a nice gentle fit which should stay in place:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Then after thinking about different options I finally decided to drill and tap into the main table and just bolt it on with 2 M8 bolts. You can see them poking through on the underside. I made the holes in the wooden table a fairly tight fit on the bolts to achieve a bit of alignment when it is fitted and removed, but it's not that critical. By moving and rotating the table I was able to use the pillar drill to make these 2 holes, do the tapping (motor off), and counterboring. I used the DRO to sink each cap head exactly 10mm - very pleased with how that all works.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I've been thinking about another 'problem' that happens on pillar drills. When you move the table up and down it almost certainly moves out of alignment with the centre of the drill. This is fine if you are just setting up for the first job, but if you want to do multiple holes in the same place for different reasons e.g. centre drill, then clearance, then counterbore, then tap, you sometimes need to move the table up and down to fit the short and long bits in the chuck and still have enough quill plunge to make the cut.
    When I bolted this new table top on I got lucky / took a best guess at the height to set, and was able to do all the operations without moving the table, but this is not always the case. What do other people do?
    I thought about adding a frame behind the machine with supported rails running vertically up either side of the column for the table to ride up and down on, preventing rotation.
    I also thought about adding a laser pointer to the front of the table pointing straight down at a fixed mark on the base, then moving the table up, and knocking it back onto the mark again.
    Any other ideas?
    Last edited by routercnc; 28-10-2015 at 10:20 PM. Reason: typos
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

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  6. #14
    I just picked up a Super X1LP HiTorque Mill - Belt Drive - Brushless MT2 Metric for 500 and another 120 will convert it to full cnc. I woulod consider spending the extra and getting a far superior machine with capabilities going forward.

  7. #15
    Clive S's Avatar
    Lives in Marple   Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 12 Hours Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has been a member for 5-6 years. Has a total post count of 2,309. Received thanks 402 times, giving thanks to others 35 times. Made a monetary donation to the upkeep of the community. Is a beta tester for Machinists Network features.
    Quote Originally Posted by lucan07 View Post
    I just picked up a Super X1LP HiTorque Mill - Belt Drive - Brushless MT2 Metric for 500 and another 120 will convert it to full cnc. I woulod consider spending the extra and getting a far superior machine with capabilities going forward.
    It would be interesting to show how you can covert a mill to full cnc for 120 decent drives cost around 60 and motors 30 each etc
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  8. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by lucan07 View Post
    I just picked up a Super X1LP HiTorque Mill - Belt Drive - Brushless MT2 Metric for 500 and another 120 will convert it to full cnc. I woulod consider spending the extra and getting a far superior machine with capabilities going forward.

    120 ? - I think you missed off a zero.
    Albert Einstein may have been a genius, but his brother Frank, was a monster

    Sent from my clunky old Windows 7 Machine

  9. #17
    Nice mods on this, got me thinking now as I have some supported rail laying about AND a crosshair type laser module.

    I'd be lost without my drill press, so your mods and observations naturally very much ring true.

    .Me
    Last edited by Lee Roberts; 13-02-2016 at 07:08 PM.
    .Me

  10. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Clive S View Post
    It would be interesting to show how you can covert a mill to full cnc for 120 decent drives cost around 60 and motors 30 each etc
    3 Axis TB6560 Driver Controller Board
    Nema 23 Stepper Motors 1.26Nm/175oz-in 2.8A x3
    24V 10A power supply
    Cost 60 with delivery and VAT
    Already spun up each axis separately (cutting 5mm acrylic/3mm Aluminium for a print bed) with 2:1 geared pulleys on Arduino Nema 17 42oz handled Z axis without problem on less than a 1/4 of proposed power.
    Building 3d printers etc for years so plenty of stock parts laying around but to buy would be no more than 60, casings etc will be 5mm Acrylic I pay 0.37p for A3+ so well within budget.
    Will be posting build, this machine is a mini 250 watt all I need, and as much as I would like to carry into a 1st floor flat and run without annoying neighbours.
    Doesn't require anything larger from my experience its not for production operation its to produce occasional parts as such is adequately specced.

  11. #19
    See reply to above post.

  12. #20
    JUNK 60 wasted.!!

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