Thread: Router build

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  1. #31
    +1 clive ... i hear ya ... but then you go down the whole road of tuning fork ... and defeat the whole purpose of having the rails move

    im going with bearings moving , like i drew on the original concept, its much easier and i doubt there will be any loss by going with this

    silyavski ... i have enough travel on the rails and screws ... its just the design now. I have about 230mm between gantry beam and table top. but only having 230mm of movement isnt enough , i need another 120mm minimum to pull out a long series bit

    for example - if i were to machine a block of foam for a plug that is 160mm thick .... and lets say i needed to machine right to the bottom of the foam , so i would need a bit of 120mm long ( the router clears the piece for arguments sake)

    then the travel required would be the piece 160mm + 120mm bit + clearance 50mm = 320mm right ? if the move the block up like Clive suggested by 90mm then i would have sufficient clearance

    going to redraw bearings the other way and have a scrutinize

  2. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by Blackrat View Post
    +1 clive ... i hear ya ... but then you go down the whole road of tuning fork ... and defeat the whole purpose of having the rails move

    im going with bearings moving , like i drew on the original concept, its much easier and i doubt there will be any loss by going with this
    This is ok if your only ever going to use long tools that reach the bed or material base but what happens if you want to use short stubby cutter.?

    In this case if you have to drop the spindle in the clamp this then gives you a long fixed length lever that is a long tuning fork.!! That never changes it pitch no matter if you raise the Z axis.
    This does make a differance and in some materials you will clearly see it compared to having rails moving. You can certainly forget cutting aluminium and expect any kind of decent finish.!!

  3. #33
    Jazz , I do agree ....
    Do you feel I should just raise the bearing a bit to have a touch more clearance like Clive suggests ?

    I don't find many examples of moving rails ... Got any links ;-)

  4. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by Blackrat View Post
    Jazz , I do agree ....
    Do you feel I should just raise the bearing a bit to have a touch more clearance like Clive suggests ?

    I don't find many examples of moving rails ... Got any links ;-)
    A lot of people put the z rails on the plate that the spindle fixes to as it helps to stiffen the plate up. Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Clive S; 13-09-2014 at 10:29 AM.

  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by Blackrat View Post
    Jazz , I do agree ....
    Do you feel I should just raise the bearing a bit to have a touch more clearance like Clive suggests ?

    I don't find many examples of moving rails ... Got any links ;-)
    No I suggest you have moving rails.!! . . . .The whole idea with any area of the machine is to try and reduce vibration at the tool and moving the bearing higher will just make this worse. Yes you'll have more clearence but you'll get more vibration.

    Most machine builds on this forum use moving rails so Check them out.!

    To be honest if your just building a Router for cutting wood and soft materials then it's not a problem but if you want to cut harder materials which often require shorter tooling then it does become a problem. Moving rails helps get around this without messing around raising the work or having moving table.

    If you want good combination so can cut all materials then have a moving table along with moving rails.

  6. #36
    a little progress ....

    i thought id try out using epoxy between two steel sheets and i gotta say it works great ! there is no ring from hitting the the beam , and its not 'that' heavy

    wish i could have done some before and after tests ... but i dont have the time right now to play

    did a quick test run of the X and Y axis today , its super smooth and so quiet, man you gotta love servo's !
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #37
    Looking great! How did you manage to weld those plates with the oval holes inside the tubing

  8. #38
    i cut the inner tubing into sections, then welded the oval plate piece and two rectangle sections together , repeat for the entire length

  9. #39
    Did the inner tube have to be metal or was it part of the strength too ?
    Last edited by EddyCurrent; 18-12-2014 at 07:13 PM.
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

  10. #40
    yea must be metal as this completes the sandwich ..

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