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  1. #51
    I am afraid that I cannot comment on the design, but that looks AMAZING. Well done. G.

  2. #52
    Thanks for the kind words, Geoffrey. Yep, I also not 100% sure how good it will turn out but I'm putting all effort in and I hope to have it cutting in a few weeks time.

  3. #53
    +1 what Geoffrey said.
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

  4. #54
    Well done it's Well OTT and looks Cool but do Hope for your sake it is true and not got any twist because it will be a proper Ba@~?rd to tweak that bugger into shape. . LOL

    I'd let it sit for quite a while to release stress's before trying to do any accurate setting up of it.! . . . That's a lot of welds in small area that will want to settle down and move.!

  5. #55
    Thanks for the advice Jazz. OTT... please see observation below:-)

    The granite slab I welded on is pretty flat and judging from that the two areas where the 2 X base plates will be welded is very much on the same plane, so no significant twist. I would say definitely less than 0.5 mm which is great as I was prepared to deal with 2 or 3mm if I had to. My plan is to weld in the 10mm base plates and then let the gantry settle under its own weight on top of the two alu blocks that sit on the linear guides with metal epoxy in between and release agent on the alu blocks. That way I should get a very good mating surface there and not induce stress bolting it together.

    Two observations that might help other newbies.
    1) Parts looks a lot more bulky in real life than on your little cad drawing. If you go with 'looks about right' on your cad, it will translate to 'way over designed' in real life.

    2) Holding the parts for welding with threaded rod works well but put washer and maybe copper slip on the nuts as they may bind due to movement during welding which makes them hard to remove. I had to cut one rod to release the longitudinal stress that caused two nut to lock up completely.

    3) Early in the weld a thin tag weld broke in half with a very loud ping sound during cooling, and I thought this is the beginning of the end as the offset on the broken tag was quite obvious. I did the opposing welds and when that cooled the tag had moved back to almost its original position and you could barely see the hairline crack where it broke.

  6. #56
    How do I change this thread into a build log or should I just create a new thread under build logs to post my progress pictures?

  7. #57
    Quote Originally Posted by mitchejc View Post
    How do I change this thread into a build log or should I just create a new thread under build logs to post my progress pictures?
    Send a PM to Lee Roberts and ask him to move the thread.
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

  8. #58
    Thx Eddy, will do.

  9. #59
    Quote Originally Posted by mitchejc View Post
    My plan is to weld in the 10mm base plates and then let the gantry settle under its own weight on top of the two alu blocks that sit on the linear guides with metal epoxy in between and release agent on the alu blocks. That way I should get a very good mating surface there and not induce stress bolting it together.
    I use this method along with shimming all the time and it works great but don't use release agent your better with a thin film of plastic between, Cling film is what I use. Release agent doesn't always release good enough and can affect the epoxy curing, try a sample first if you do.

  10. #60
    Quote Originally Posted by mitchejc View Post

    Parts looks a lot more bulky in real life than on your little cad drawing. If you go with 'looks about right' on your cad, it will translate to 'way over designed' in real life.

    That's true. Same happened here. For second time

    I did not have internet for a week and see now that the build goes very well. I will call you if i need to design spaceship
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

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