Must be age related but I've been getting mixed up with this thread http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7816-...0874#post60874
As amxen says get the velocity and acceleration down on Mach3 to something that won't (shouldn't ?)cause any issues.
Once that's eliminated my stab is that the breakout board is faulty and it's either a bad soldered joint on the inputs pull-up resistor pack or the pack itself. (sometimes I like to live dangerous )
Last edited by EddyCurrent; 26-08-2014 at 07:31 PM.Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted
The good driver is happy running the long axis at 4000mm/min & 400mm/s2 (twice the standard) on its own. The fault occurs even with all axes at 1/2 standard speed.
What's a half decent PSU/BOB/3x drives gonna cost me? If the seller can't replace quickly or the next ione is also faulty I'll be after a discount towards my replacement controller box.
I may be wrong but I think these are the main UK suppliers of stuff used by DIY'ers, plus obviously there's ebay.
If I was in your position I woud change the breakout board first and would most likely choose a similar board from ebay, they are less than a tenner from abroad, in fact I have just realised I have a board like yours that I bought to get extra inputs to my system, it's working fine in that role. It connects into port2 of my SmoothStepper
Last edited by EddyCurrent; 26-08-2014 at 09:06 PM.Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted
I would go for the part refund and buy decent electronics with a mind to transplant to your next machine. . . . No point replacing crap with crap.!!
To be honest I'd want more than just the refund of the Drive and BOB there's your fiddling time and Down time to take into acount.
These things need to be accounted for when your thinking about electronics and machine because what's the point having a machine if your spending more time chasing faults or fixing the bloody thing or than using it.?
Bit more info. summary: Mistakes corrected, but no happy ending.
When adjusting dip switches, refer to the instructions on the side of the driver, not to an instruction for a different driver that you found on the internet! Yes folks, I don't have leadshine M542s, I have Tongka M542s and the dip switch setting are different.
Funny thing is that when I looked at the dips I found a setting that indicated 16 microsteps, unfortunately that was just chance. So when I thought I was changing from 16steps to 8steps, I was actually changing from 3A to 2A, and from 0% decay to 50% (whatever that is).
I've put everything to how it was set originally. And I've tried 8steps instead of 16. In both cases all the faults are just the same as before.
I did spot that dip7 is set at 1/2 current. The other option is full current. Looks like I'm running at half throttle ?
That setting is to reduce current in the motor at idle to reduce heating effect, it has no impact on running torque.
Seller responded just in time (I was openeing a case as the message came in). He says no controller boxes in UK but will send me 2x driver controllers. I said I also want interface board, even if it ships from china.
I could do some cutting using manual control for Z, as that wouldn't trigger the problem. but I will wait and get on with other stuff until spares arrive. Signing out for a few days :(
A pair of 2flute 6mm cutters arrived. Very cheap and came in 4 days from UK not HongKong. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190984562714 price was only £1.69 last week ! I've got some more expensive ones as well coming from china, comparisons will come in due course.
So I disconnected Z, and that allows me to drive around in X and Y.
Feed 1200mm/min. 6000RPM.
First I did full width passes along the top at about 1mm doc > all fine.
Then I sidemilled the endface with doc 3mm stepover about 1.4mm. Fine conventional but when I tried to climb mill on the way back I got a loud vibration.
That made me panic and I hit a key (aiming for reverse!) and instead took a cut at full width 9mm doc. That too made a noise but nothing broke.
I'm pretty pleased. Acetal is the easiest plastic to work with, and I'm all for making life easy. These feeds and speeds are plenty for the small pieces I have planned.
I'll probably go back to 16 microsteps giving a max feed around 2300 as I don't think I'll be needing 4700 mm/min.
Hoping my replacement drivers arrive soon so I can do some CNC.
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