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  1. #21
    No worries Eddy, and thanks everybody especially John. The circuit looks easy enough, I should be able to test it sometimes next week.

    Alternatively, I have found an off the shelf converter from Axiomatic:

    http://www.axiomatic.com/TDAX13020X.pdf

    But I have a feeling it's going to be much more expensive than the diy version John proposed, so not really an option.

    On another note, can somebody confirm a 24-28v 10A power supply would do, and what voltage do you feed to stepper drivers?

  2. #22
    Hello Miller,

    Let me know if it works and any questions.

    On the PSU, the one I use in my Novamill conversion is similar to the 36V one here: but I got mine direct from China via ebay for rather less money IIRC. Look for topengineer1989 as the seller. I use the common 2M542 drivers. 36 volts is fine to drive the steppers assuming the drivers are rated up to 40 or 50 volts. I think I have set the X and Y currents to just less than 2A and the Z probably 3 but could check those.

    John.

  3. #23
    Yes, that's the seller I bought the BOB from. It came as a complete package with 3 x 2M542 drivers. Still in the post but should be getting it quite soon.

    The motors are rated 1.5A and 3A at 30V, so I will keep about same amp rating and feed 36V then.

    What I had in mind for power supply is this. It shouldn't make more than 30 posted and looks nice quality and DIN mounted, but if it's less than ideal because of the lower voltage, I'll go for the 36V as you suggested.

    Just to confirm, your circuit has 2 x 470K and 3 x 47K resistor. I have selected this for C1, and this for C2, and this for the op amp.
    Last edited by Miller; 19-10-2014 at 03:48 PM.

  4. #24
    I had to get up at 4:30 am this morning to get rid of my duff drawing, couldn't sleep knowing it was there

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnHaine View Post
    On the controller side, it looks like for the Sprint box that Miller has, +10 V comes from terminal 1; the control input ("0-10V to controller") goes to terminal 2; and 0V is on terminal 4.
    John, it looks to me like the input to the drive is terminal 3, terminal 2 goes to a pot for 'minimum speed' which creates a potential divider along with the external pot to give an offset from zero.
    Last edited by EddyCurrent; 19-10-2014 at 03:44 PM.
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

  5. #25
    Oops! Eddycurrent, you're quite right, terminal 3. Terminal 2 is not connected.

    Miller, the eletrolytic you selected is a surface mount type, is that what you wanted? The other one is leaded. Maplin is a good place for miscellaneous components. Well, the 36 V works fine for me, lower voltages may work but the drives are fine with 36. That's the package I bought too of the BoB and drivers.

    John.

  6. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnHaine View Post
    Miller, the eletrolytic you selected is a surface mount type, is that what you wanted?

    John.
    It was the only option for a 10V 10uF. The closest through-hole I can find is 16V.

  7. #27
    This is a good place for components too;

    http://www.rapidonline.com/Electroni...tic-Capacitors
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

  8. #28
    The voltage rating isn't critical, 16 V is fine, leaded much easier to solder.

  9. #29
    I gather that this circuit has now been built and works which is nice to know!

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