Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
  1. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by EddyCurrent View Post
    Best advice with regard to Z axis is to put rails on front plate, bit where the spindle mounts, and bearing blocks on back plate, i.e. opposite to what you've shown.
    Normally Eddy I'd 100% agree with you but with such short travel then no I'd go with something like how it's set out now. Thou I would have the bearings on the front plate lower with next to no overhang and extend the spindle down in the clamps. This will give full support to spindle/front plate from the rear plate.
    If longer travel then I'd set it out other way.

    Derek I wouldn't mix servos and steppers and go with same on all axis. Not that they can't mix but it keeps electrics all the same and there won't be much difference in price. If your going with servo's or even steppers for that matter then suggest you get a decent motion control card. Definately will need one for servo's to get decent performance out of them.

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to JAZZCNC For This Useful Post:


  3. #22
    Any suggestions pal? I had read a post where you suggestion leadshine and some tricked up card from the US but I can't seem to find the thread

  4. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by D-man View Post
    Any suggestions pal? I had read a post where you suggestion leadshine and some tricked up card from the US but I can't seem to find the thread
    With servo's then Kinco's are ok. Regards Motion control then it's a no brainer for me it's the Cslabs Csmio-IP-S. It's just not cheap but by far the best in this price range.

    One more thing with frame I swap the sections around and make couple of length changes. I'd use single piece top rails from square section and rectangle section for lower pieces see pic to see what i mean.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	derek.jpg 
Views:	178 
Size:	163.9 KB 
ID:	13906

  5. #24
    Nice on Dean, I had originally drawn something similar in, but I was wondering if the extrusion would sit level incase a bit of warp creeped into it.

    The way I have it I thought may compensate for any un level beams or warping

  6. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by D-man View Post
    Nice on Dean, I had originally drawn something similar in, but I was wondering if the extrusion would sit level incase a bit of warp creeped into it.

    The way I have it I thought may compensate for any un level beams or warping
    No I wouldn't have it like you have at really because any bending or warping of the cross beams will directly affect the profile and rails and take away accurecy. I drew it without the cross beams more to show the single piece top rather than 2 pieces but other than that it's meant to be just same as you drew it.

    I wouldn't do it your way at all because it will make getting rails on same plane harder and any movement of cross beams will directly affect profile. The surface bed sits on isn't so critical as you will surface the bed parallel to the spindle but the surface the profile/rails sits on must be flat and on same plane each side or allow for the profile to be adjusted onto same plane.

  7. #26
    I'm not sure I follow what your saying pal... I understand removing the vertical from the centre and putting a cross base in as the sides. Are you saying not to use the 9 cross members on the top now? If so what would be the best way to mount the extrusion
    Last edited by D-man; 24-11-2014 at 08:49 AM.

  8. #27
    Is this the board you mentioned Dean? Looks a nifty unit

  9. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by D-man View Post
    Is this the board you mentioned Dean? Looks a nifty unit
    I don't think you put the link in but here it is :- http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/elec...-step-dir.html there are 3 models. ..Clive

  10. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by Clive S View Post
    I don't think you put the link in but here it is :- http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/elec...-step-dir.html there are 3 models. ..Clive
    Oops! morning brain fart!

    This is the link http://www.cs-lab.eu/en/produkt-18,2...onnectors.html but its the same Clive cheers pal

  11. #30
    I think Jazz is saying that using the 9 cross beams will make levelling the extrusion very difficult. In effect you will be creating 9 points along the length of the machine which will need to be perfectly level to get the extrusion flat. Looking at Deans drawing you can place the extrusion directly on the frame length or even better, do away with the extrusion and fit the rails directly to the frame.

Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Cast aluminium gantry router
    By jrcast in forum Gantry/Router Machines & Building
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 17-02-2017, 08:13 PM
  2. RFQ: RFQ: Gantry in Aluminium plate
    By IanS1 in forum Projects, Jobs & Requests
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 03-10-2014, 03:51 PM
  3. Strengthing a steel gantry.
    By gavztheouch in forum Gantry/Router Machines & Building
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 07-06-2014, 09:11 AM
  4. BUILD LOG: Monster fixed gantry router for aluminium & wood
    By jonboycnc in forum DIY Router Build Logs
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 12-01-2014, 11:26 PM
  5. BUILD LOG: Vertical fixed gantry. Design & build. (Steel/epoxy)
    By Greeny in forum DIY Router Build Logs
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 19-08-2013, 08:26 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •