8x4 router build. Steel base & Aluminium gantry gantry

[JAZZCNC]

Best advice with regard to Z axis is to put rails on front plate, bit where the spindle mounts, and bearing blocks on back plate, i.e. opposite to what you've shown.

Normally Eddy I'd 100% agree with you but with such short travel then no I'd go with something like how it's set out now. Thou I would have the bearings on the front plate lower with next to no overhang and extend the spindle down in the clamps. This will give full support to spindle/front plate from the rear plate.
If longer travel then I'd set it out other way.

Derek I wouldn't mix servos and steppers and go with same on all axis. Not that they can't mix but it keeps electrics all the same and there won't be much difference in price. If your going with servo's or even steppers for that matter then suggest you get a decent motion control card. Definately will need one for servo's to get decent performance out of them.

[D-man]

Any suggestions pal? I had read a post where you suggestion leadshine and some tricked up card from the US but I can't seem to find the thread

[JAZZCNC]

Any suggestions pal? I had read a post where you suggestion leadshine and some tricked up card from the US but I can't seem to find the thread

With servo's then Kinco's are ok. Regards Motion control then it's a no brainer for me it's the Cslabs Csmio-IP-S. It's just not cheap but by far the best in this price range.

One more thing with frame I swap the sections around and make couple of length changes. I'd use single piece top rails from square section and rectangle section for lower pieces see pic to see what i mean.

[D-man]

Nice on Dean, I had originally drawn something similar in, but I was wondering if the extrusion would sit level incase a bit of warp creeped into it.

The way I have it I thought may compensate for any un level beams or warping

[JAZZCNC]

Nice on Dean, I had originally drawn something similar in, but I was wondering if the extrusion would sit level incase a bit of warp creeped into it.

The way I have it I thought may compensate for any un level beams or warping

No I wouldn't have it like you have at really because any bending or warping of the cross beams will directly affect the profile and rails and take away accurecy. I drew it without the cross beams more to show the single piece top rather than 2 pieces but other than that it's meant to be just same as you drew it.

I wouldn't do it your way at all because it will make getting rails on same plane harder and any movement of cross beams will directly affect profile. The surface bed sits on isn't so critical as you will surface the bed parallel to the spindle but the surface the profile/rails sits on must be flat and on same plane each side or allow for the profile to be adjusted onto same plane.

[D-man]

I'm not sure I follow what your saying pal... I understand removing the vertical from the centre and putting a cross base in as the sides. Are you saying not to use the 9 cross members on the top now? If so what would be the best way to mount the extrusion

[D-man]

Is this the board you mentioned Dean? Looks a nifty unit

[Clive S]

Is this the board you mentioned Dean? Looks a nifty unit

I don't think you put the link in but here it is :- http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/elec...-step-dir.html there are 3 models. ..Clive

[D-man]

I don't think you put the link in but here it is :- http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/elec...-step-dir.html there are 3 models. ..Clive

Oops! morning brain fart!

This is the link http://www.cs-lab.eu/en/produkt-18,2...onnectors.html but its the same Clive cheers pal

[IanS1]

I think Jazz is saying that using the 9 cross beams will make levelling the extrusion very difficult. In effect you will be creating 9 points along the length of the machine which will need to be perfectly level to get the extrusion flat. Looking at Deans drawing you can place the extrusion directly on the frame length or even better, do away with the extrusion and fit the rails directly to the frame.