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  1. #1
    The picture shows a proposed sliding table for a saw bench. Three aluminium profiles 40x80, 40x160, 45deg. side by side with 6mm aluminium top pieces. The width across the top surface is just over 300 mm, total length of the assembly will be 1250mm. As you can see it's fastened to two SBR rails with four bearings fastened to the machine.
    The question is, how can I join the aluminium profiles together along their length ? I've looked on Motedis web site but can't see a suitable connector.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    You can see the 'proper' sliding table here; http://www.hammerusa.com/us-us/produ...ner-48x48.html
    and here if the video works for you; http://www.hammerusa.com/videoplayer...hiebetisch.flv
    Last edited by EddyCurrent; 24-11-2014 at 09:50 PM.
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

  2. #2
    Just a standard slide block and then drill the centre of the extrusion and bolt through from the side I believe
    Last edited by charlieuk; 24-11-2014 at 10:59 PM.

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  4. #3
    I'd be interested in hearing of a good way to do this too. My only idea was to drill through the one profile, screw through and use a normal T Nut on the other. A bit more awkward with the angled profile though.

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  6. #4
    Think Your going to have to drill some holes and use standard connector elements or T-nuts. Will be tricky on that angle piece thou.!

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  8. #5
    Thanks for replies so far, it confirms what I thought even though it seems a basic and reasonable requirement.
    I think I'll be drilling like you say and making a hardwood spline + Gorilla Glue for the angled piece.
    Last edited by EddyCurrent; 24-11-2014 at 11:46 PM.
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

  9. #6
    Possibly a stupid idea but how about a strip of Ali or strong plastic the shape of a double ended T nut then knock it in and cover with profile cap end

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  11. #7
    mekanik's Avatar
    Lives in Barrow in Furness, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 23 Hours Ago Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 786. Received thanks 96 times, giving thanks to others 176 times.
    Hi Eddy
    You will have to drill the 40x160 right through and use stud iron same dia as the slot width, small lengths of flat bar drilled and tapped to fit the 45deg section and you want a hole in the 40x80 section for the stud iron and also a larger hole for the nut you are going to have to make to tighten it all up, you need some hex bar to make the nuts, just turn the hex down to to a slight clearance on the larger hole and drill and tap to suit your stud iron, or just machine a sleeve and fit some nice shiney dome nuts, ormake the hole big enough to get a socket in to tighten and fill the hole with a plastic plug.
    The 40x160 could be drilled from either side as you have the accuracy of your CNC machine.
    Regards
    Mike
    Last edited by mekanik; 25-11-2014 at 11:16 AM.

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  13. #8
    I've ordered the parts now, will update with pictures once finished.
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

  14. #9
    mekanik's Avatar
    Lives in Barrow in Furness, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 23 Hours Ago Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 786. Received thanks 96 times, giving thanks to others 176 times.
    Hi Edddy
    If you decide to go with the method i mentioned it will make life easier if you tack weld the flat bar that goes in the 45deg section to the stud iron so you end up with a long bolt.
    Regards
    Mike

  15. #10
    You could give this type of stuff a go

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