Thread: Help with drill-Mill conversion
Phew! Thanks Lee I thought it was me being stupid, can i delete the duplicate?
Did I see one of Bungalowdogs ballscrews there? What diameter is the splined end of the quill...and what taper is it?
Dam you have good eye sight, it is a bungalowdog ballscrew, bought it before I saw the coments on here about how usless it might be, Shed load of backlash in the reduction gears, need to isolate the ballscrew to check that, but it dosnt look up to much.
The quill is a morse 2 taper and the spline is 14.75mm outside dia. and an effective dia. of 11.25mm minus the splines and would require a 225mm long drill bit. The collet chucks have an M10 thread so would need sleeving I presume.
Im a little concerned about the quality of the internal taper on the quill so was wondering if I could cut the end off and put an M10 thread on that and screw it in to 20mm straight shank holder? or will I have allignment problems and is it likely to shear off under load?
cheers KIP, I understand the comment about ditching this project and just buying a proper mill, but not only do I need this to make the bits for the VMC but I think the learning curve will be usefull and give me a chance to use a CNC machine.
I always thought that the hard bit was building the machine! but from what i read there is quite a skill to using it properly! zeroing, feeds and speeds etc.
It hasnt cost much so if I reck the bed or Its goes in to self destruct because I didnt set it up properly them it wont mater.
Out of interest what would be the biggest size hole for the centre of the quill? Maybe I can get it done locally. The other option is to forget the collet chuck and just use it for accurate drilling
The draw-bar hole in my (MT3) ER32 collet chuck goes right through. If your chuck is the same, you could always screw up, through the chuck, into the spindle (with a smaller bolt). I find I don't need to tighten the draw bar on my morse taper quill quite as tight as on most R8 devices, since the taper is fairly secure on its own. I'd have thought that a long M6/M8 allen bolt would hold the chuck in place perfectly well for light use.
That sounds like a plan
Better get on flea bay and find a collet chuck like that. keep you posted
25-05-2009 #15possibly 6mm and then it will be a springy drawbar
Those heatsinks are 425X300mm
Bill, just re-read your first post and realised you suggested mounting the chuck from underneath then, sorry I didnt twig.
Anyway just ordered the angular contact bearings for the spindle and found a suitable ER collect chuck. But not sure wether to go for the ER32 on a morse 2 taper so i can use the collets on the big mill when I make it.
Any one know if will this be ok on that size taper? and In reallity will I need 20mm capacity for milling Ali?
Any one used the cheap chineese stuff? ER32 collet set is still £50 so not that cheap if its useless
26-05-2009 #17Any one used the cheap chineese stuff? ER32 collet set is still £50 so not that cheap if its useless
I don't see any problem using a ER32 with a MT2 and it'll save money in the long run.
Bearings arrived today! Whats the best way of determing the torque for the preload on the angular contact bearings, im guessing its just enougth to stop runout, and loose enough to reduce friction/heat build up?
Cheers, so I probably need a lock nut as well then? The original one just squeezed the inner race on to the step on the shaft.
The other problem is how to drill the hole in to the end of the quill for the chuck lock bolt. I foolishly thought it would fit in the lathe but that also has an M2 taper, Duh
Is it safe/accurate to hold a drill bit (facing up) in a vise and lower the quill down over it?
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