Page 2 of 14 FirstFirst 123412 ... LastLast
  1. #11
    Ross77's Avatar
    Lives in Devon, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 6 Hours Ago Has been a member for 8-9 years. Has a total post count of 689. Received thanks 25 times, giving thanks to others 40 times.
    Phew! Thanks Lee I thought it was me being stupid, can i delete the duplicate?

    Did I see one of Bungalowdogs ballscrews there? What diameter is the splined end of the quill...and what taper is it?
    Kip
    Dam you have good eye sight, it is a bungalowdog ballscrew, bought it before I saw the coments on here about how usless it might be, Shed load of backlash in the reduction gears, need to isolate the ballscrew to check that, but it dosnt look up to much.

    The quill is a morse 2 taper and the spline is 14.75mm outside dia. and an effective dia. of 11.25mm minus the splines and would require a 225mm long drill bit. The collet chucks have an M10 thread so would need sleeving I presume.

    Im a little concerned about the quality of the internal taper on the quill so was wondering if I could cut the end off and put an M10 thread on that and screw it in to 20mm straight shank holder? or will I have allignment problems and is it likely to shear off under load?

    Cheers

  2. #12
    Ross77's Avatar
    Lives in Devon, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 6 Hours Ago Has been a member for 8-9 years. Has a total post count of 689. Received thanks 25 times, giving thanks to others 40 times.
    cheers KIP, I understand the comment about ditching this project and just buying a proper mill, but not only do I need this to make the bits for the VMC but I think the learning curve will be usefull and give me a chance to use a CNC machine.

    I always thought that the hard bit was building the machine! but from what i read there is quite a skill to using it properly! zeroing, feeds and speeds etc.

    It hasnt cost much so if I reck the bed or Its goes in to self destruct because I didnt set it up properly them it wont mater.

    Out of interest what would be the biggest size hole for the centre of the quill? Maybe I can get it done locally. The other option is to forget the collet chuck and just use it for accurate drilling

  3. The draw-bar hole in my (MT3) ER32 collet chuck goes right through. If your chuck is the same, you could always screw up, through the chuck, into the spindle (with a smaller bolt). I find I don't need to tighten the draw bar on my morse taper quill quite as tight as on most R8 devices, since the taper is fairly secure on its own. I'd have thought that a long M6/M8 allen bolt would hold the chuck in place perfectly well for light use.

  4. #14
    Ross77's Avatar
    Lives in Devon, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 6 Hours Ago Has been a member for 8-9 years. Has a total post count of 689. Received thanks 25 times, giving thanks to others 40 times.
    Cheers Bill
    That sounds like a plan
    Better get on flea bay and find a collet chuck like that. keep you posted
    Thanks again

  5. possibly 6mm and then it will be a springy drawbar
    If it screws upwards it'll only be about 6" long


    Those heatsinks are 425X300mm
    I built an amplifier with a similar sized one :)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	amp1.jpg 
Views:	143 
Size:	13.5 KB 
ID:	471   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	amp2.jpg 
Views:	150 
Size:	33.9 KB 
ID:	472   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	amp3.jpg 
Views:	168 
Size:	52.6 KB 
ID:	473  

  6. #16
    Ross77's Avatar
    Lives in Devon, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 6 Hours Ago Has been a member for 8-9 years. Has a total post count of 689. Received thanks 25 times, giving thanks to others 40 times.
    Bill, just re-read your first post and realised you suggested mounting the chuck from underneath then, sorry I didnt twig.

    Anyway just ordered the angular contact bearings for the spindle and found a suitable ER collect chuck. But not sure wether to go for the ER32 on a morse 2 taper so i can use the collets on the big mill when I make it.

    Any one know if will this be ok on that size taper? and In reallity will I need 20mm capacity for milling Ali?

    Any one used the cheap chineese stuff? ER32 collet set is still 50 so not that cheap if its useless
    Cheers

  7. Any one used the cheap chineese stuff? ER32 collet set is still 50 so not that cheap if its useless
    Cheers
    I bought a 6.50 one direct from china via ebay (for my T&C grinder). The chuck is as good as the one I bought from <TILT - brain failure> someone??? - very good, bugger all run-out, but the nut was so badly machined I had to take a dremel to the ejection ring in order to fit a collet.

    I don't see any problem using a ER32 with a MT2 and it'll save money in the long run.

  8. #18
    Ross77's Avatar
    Lives in Devon, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 6 Hours Ago Has been a member for 8-9 years. Has a total post count of 689. Received thanks 25 times, giving thanks to others 40 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by BillTodd View Post
    I bought a 6.50 one direct from china via ebay (for my T&C grinder). The chuck is as good as the one I bought from <TILT - brain failure> someone??? - very good, bugger all run-out, but the nut was so badly machined I had to take a dremel to the ejection ring in order to fit a collet.

    I don't see any problem using a ER32 with a MT2 and it'll save money in the long run.
    Cheers Bill, going to go for the ER32 then, Just waiting for the shipping costs then its on order. 13 for chuck and 27 for 19 collets (sounds to good really) where did you get yours from?

    Bearings arrived today! Whats the best way of determing the torque for the preload on the angular contact bearings, im guessing its just enougth to stop runout, and loose enough to reduce friction/heat build up?

    cheers

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Ross77 View Post
    Whats the best way of determing the torque for the preload on the angular contact bearings?

    The torque is zero, zip, nada.

    Tighten them down until the slop is within your acceptable tolerance.

  10. #20
    Ross77's Avatar
    Lives in Devon, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 6 Hours Ago Has been a member for 8-9 years. Has a total post count of 689. Received thanks 25 times, giving thanks to others 40 times.
    Cheers, so I probably need a lock nut as well then? The original one just squeezed the inner race on to the step on the shaft.

    The other problem is how to drill the hole in to the end of the quill for the chuck lock bolt. I foolishly thought it would fit in the lathe but that also has an M2 taper, Duh

    Is it safe/accurate to hold a drill bit (facing up) in a vise and lower the quill down over it?

Page 2 of 14 FirstFirst 123412 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. FOR SALE: Axminster RF40 mill/drill 3 axis dro, Base and extras
    By komatias in forum Items For Sale
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 04-08-2013, 10:30 PM
  2. NEW MEMBER: Have Built 2 CNC machines 1 mill/drill conversion and 1 Router/plasma from scratch
    By AGB in forum New Member Introductions
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 06-02-2013, 03:16 AM
  3. WANTED: Small CNC Drill/Mill
    By Mad Professor in forum Items Wanted
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 03-09-2010, 01:28 PM
  4. Is it possible to modify a drill to be an end mill?
    By HankMcSpank in forum Tool & Tooling Technology
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 29-04-2010, 02:51 PM
  5. Drill/Mill Spindle brake (RF30)
    By BillTodd in forum Machine Discussion
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 04-11-2009, 12:09 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •