Thread: taper bearing.

  1. #1
    Just restoring Acorn/ Halifax lathe and the taper bearing on the spindle is not good. The Price of these timken bearings is silly as could be into 300 for the pair (the lathe is only worth 250). Looks like its due to the outer part having a shoulder. I can get the same bearing without a shoulder at much lower price. Is it done to just use inner section and rollers from new bearing with the old outer that has the shoulder. Also can the outer be reground?
    Edit:- bearing inner 14125 and outer 14276-B
    Last edited by i lunn; 10-12-2014 at 10:41 PM. Reason: adding part numbers

  2. #2
    Maybe it's worth posting the bearing number in case anyone has some or knows a cheaper place.
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by EddyCurrent View Post
    Maybe it's worth posting the bearing number in case anyone has some or knows a cheaper place.
    Good idea "done" Thanks.

  4. #4
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Current Activity: Viewing Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 1,831. Received thanks 192 times, giving thanks to others 5 times.
    Simply bearings have a major brand (i.e. whatever recognised brand they happen to be able to get their hands on when you order!) 14276B listed for 85 inc vat, with a mjor brand 14125 for 26.
    .
    For something precision, mixing and matching old and new parts is not really recommended.
    What's wrong with the original bearings?
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by m_c View Post
    Simply bearings have a major brand (i.e. whatever recognised brand they happen to be able to get their hands on when you order!) 14276B listed for 85 inc vat, with a mjor brand 14125 for 26.
    .
    For something precision, mixing and matching old and new parts is not really recommended.
    What's wrong with the original bearings?
    The inner race is very notchy it looks to have been run dry.

  6. #6
    I stock this bearing in my store. It is the un-marked version http://cjfbearings.com/products/1412...roller-bearing

  7. #7
    The races are probably notchy because they have been left stationary with a heavy preload.

    The lathe will only be as good as the bearings so it is worth getting good quality ones. I wouldn't think 10 car wheel bearings are not going to give a good result. You can use lower spec bearings but you need decent test gear to find and balance out the high and low spots. You may get lucky but I have only seen cheap bearings used when the the nose register and internal taper have been cut in situ once the bearings have been fitted.

    Spindle bearings have the high spots marked and come in matched pairs so minor errors cancel out.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Ross77 View Post
    The races are probably notchy because they have been left stationary with a heavy preload.
    Yes, at one place I worked we had a stores with huge electric motors, the armatures had to be rotated 1 and 1/4 turn every 6 months to prevent that very problem.
    Last edited by EddyCurrent; 11-12-2014 at 10:51 PM.
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

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