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I thought about engineering up oil lines on too each housing, that would allow the oil to drip directly on to the top of the rail as it passes in to the bearing unit, though I thought for the effort it's probably not much of a job just to oil the rails as you need to manually...
Thanks Lee, Routernc and Komatias
I've not been able to find any info on the web about lubricating these SBRXXUU linear slide bearings. So I might just have to grease / oil the rails (lightly) I guess. I found a useful source for the ballscrew grease (Mobilux EP2) ( here) and much cheaper than Ma*Di* who charge £12 for a 50ml syringe! The tech support guy at Simply Bearings is making enquiries for me , so if I get a reply I'll post it here.
I hope to start on the electronics soon - within the next 3 weeks, so more questions and photos to come. Thanks to Jazz for posting a solution for the safety circuit and the use of proximity switches for homing. Now I understand how to wire the emergency stop system!
Last edited by MikeyC38; 06-05-2016 at 01:02 AM.
My bearings are the SBR16UU and I did put grease nipples on side and grease them with the gun mine had no grub on the side only on top side was open, if Lee is correct I may have made an error but the grease certainly arrived where expected, having removed Z axis at one point for adjustment bearings were nicely coated and operation has certainly been slightly quieter since application, at extremes of travel a minor grease line appears at wipes max reach is apparent. I did have some paperwork with the two boxes of chinese bearings recieved in chinese so not read but picture showed top grub for loading bearing and side had grease gun aligned hence my judgement to add nipples and grease. Would be interesting to hear any thoughts if I can find paper recieved with mine will scan and add here, although it may well have been recycled as being of little use.
Last edited by lucan07; 06-05-2016 at 07:46 AM.
Just consider the bearings glorified skate bearings because that's all they are really, so don't require anything specialised unless you really want to make the effort, grease will last longer than oil but obviously it gets gummy once contaminated and so on, but again the wipers on these units do quite a good job at keeping the raceways clear of foreign bodies.
I could be wrong on the side grubscrew being there for greasing, they may have improved the design or something but all the open type bearing cages I've handled were closed on the casing, I'll have a look shortly on the TBR I've got here and take some pics but I'm confident on those being closed...
Edit: Just looked at the EP2 you linked, it says "is a premium quality multi-purpose, lithium-base NLGI No 2 grease".
The stuff I can get is a multipurpose NLGI lithium 2 grease but it's only £3.50 a tube and doesn't have a major brand name to inflate the price:
A Premium quality mineral oil, lithium thickened lubricating grease suitable for general purpose applications in plain and anti-friction bearings.
Conforms to leading bearing manufacturers specifications for general purpose industrial and automotive grease.
Last edited by Lee Roberts; 06-05-2016 at 09:31 AM..Me
Thanks Lee for the comment. From my research a lot of ball screw manufacturers recommend the Mobilux EP2 for their ball nuts @ 0.8-1.0ml per 10mm of ball screw diameter, so that's the only reason why I'm choosing it. However £3.50 is much cheaper so I'll have a look around for alternatives as you have suggested. For my 1605 screws this works out to around 1.5ml per ball nut per axis. The SBR16UU and SBR20UU have a side screw but I believe this is for adjustment / pre-loading as you have already said.
Last edited by MikeyC38; 06-05-2016 at 09:31 AM.
See my edit above ^^.Me
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I'll contact you via PM
Had a look for my bearings documentation but could not find picture but did find this one online from same supplier same as picture which was on leaflet which got recycled except for being open bearing for supported rail. As it goes the fact that they all used to be sealed helps me, I have removed nipples on Z axis can always pop one in annualy to grease them again, but they got in the way a little as I hadn't allowed for them.
1) Limit Switches
2) E-Stop connected to relay to cut power and signal Mach 3 (rather than signal Mach3 first)
3) Proximity home switches
Again thanks to Dean for posting a great schematic of how to do a 24V dc e-stop system. What would we newbies do without your help (and ). And to Lee for the steer on grease for the ballscrews.
Expect to have above done by mid october so I can start doing the tramming etc.
In the interim I posted another picture with the spindle mounted (just to show that I am making progress!)
Wish me luck boys!
Last edited by MikeyC38; 21-09-2016 at 01:28 PM.
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