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  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Web Goblin View Post
    Nice machine Jazz. Where is the controller?
    In that blue box on floor in front of it. It's Anilim controller which normally hangs off that arm on side, DC Drives etc are in cabinet on rear. Now redundant to be replaced with Servo's and Cslabs controller.

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by i2i View Post
    Nice Semco bedmill there Jazz, is it an 800 or 1000. I have 4 x 600's, great machines the first vmc's.
    It's 1000 and cracking machine or it will be when it's done. Still under cover at minute waiting for my attention when weather breaks and I eventually get some free time for my self.

  3. #13
    Jazz, what brand of servos are you thinking about using?
    CNC routing and prototyping services


  4. #14
    i2i's Avatar
    Lives in Cardiff, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 1 Day Ago Has been a member for 7-8 years. Has a total post count of 692. Received thanks 29 times, giving thanks to others 0 times.
    i've got plans to throw HSD router heads on two (24k rpm 6.8kw bt30 atc), a slotting head on the third and keep a low speed head for steel work on the forth. Great machines and mega value.

  5. #15
    Thanks for all the help with the suggestions and advise.

    I have made some progress :). I have decided to go for the Nema 23 from zapp 3.0Nm for all axis'. I have also chosen to only control the x,y slides and the quill hand-wheel. I have chosen the Quill rather than the knee due to many reasons. The main problem is that there is a lot of slack between handwheel and the actual movement of the knee, the only way to fix that would be to change out the gear. Due to money and time being a major factor in this project I decided to say clear of that. The way in which I think the machine will work is by lowing the quill about an 1" or depending on the max height for clearance and then bringing up the knee to meet the work piece to the tip of the cutter. Once I have raised the knee manually, I would lock the knee and then all the z operations would occur through the quill. I am aware of the problems with lowing the quill on such a small machine, however Im prepared to bare with the limitation that would ensue with opting for the quill option.

    As i mentioned earlier I will be buying the Nema 23 from Zapp

    and my fav ZP5a-INT

    using the AM882 Driver

    and a custom power supply.

    I will be using rectangular box section for the mounting system between the stepper and the axis

    For the xy and I guess z depending on if I operate the z through the quill or the knee i will be using (16:48) stepper: axis drive however I could go for (14:60) for the knee.

    Im also looking for a NEMA Wall mounted like Enclosure to mount everything inside however Im not having any luck.

    Any suggestions or views on the knee Vs. quill would be very helpful. Suggestions on removing the slack between the hand-wheel and the actual movement of the axis would be awesome too :).

  6. #16
    I think one of the problems with the quil and the knee is the backlash in both drive trains. Most of these machines I've seen CNC'd have some kind of external bracket with ballscrew that grips the quil and ensures there's little to no backlash. Some use direct to quil but i think often they get modded to use a ballscrew to get around backlash.

    Like you say the Knee is just raised by hand to some level near what's required befroe starting job.

    When you say NEMA case what do you mean exactly.? I use these

  7. #17
    I'll be doing the Z axis by using an external bracket (I believe the correct term for the plate is "honking plate") and ballscrew. As Dean says there's lots of backlash in the quill handle so I'm not going that route!


  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by njhussey View Post
    I'll be doing the Z axis by using an external bracket (I believe the correct term for the plate is "honking plate") and ballscrew. As Dean says there's lots of backlash in the quill handle so I'm not going that route!

    Could you show me a photo of what you mean by this method ? Sounds cool though

  9. #19
    If you look in the mill conversion threads for Robin Hewitt conversion you'll see exactly what I was talking about. Robin has already converted a warco mill, though not one like yours.


  10. #20
    I did the Warco Major. I think your plan to convert it using the existing screws is exactly the right way to go, that is what I did, but you will need a screw to drive the quill if your motor doesn't have the legs to lift the bed.
    Once you have a working cnc mill you can decide if you want to make it better.
    A man has to ask himself, how much backlash is too much?

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