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  1. #31
    dudz's Avatar
    Lives in Bretagne, France. Last Activity: 20-05-2017 Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 256. Received thanks 1 times, giving thanks to others 50 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by Trispectiv View Post
    Y axis has a different screw lead, or is it because of the weight that it has lower maximum feed?
    Yes. The Y axis is quite heavy, plus it has the weight of the WC spindle on it.
    3 axis CNC/router / Alu profile frame....25mm Alu Cutting bed X=500mm Y=300mm Z=110mm.....Supported 25mm X rails ....Supported 20mm Y rails....Supported 20mm Z rails.....2.2kw Chinese WC spindle......"USB Breakout Board Interface 200KHz"....M542 Drivers..SY60STH86-3008BF Motors...running....Mach3 / Cambam / Emachineshop.

  2. #32
    I see. So did you mount the extruder?

  3. #33
    dudz's Avatar
    Lives in Bretagne, France. Last Activity: 20-05-2017 Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 256. Received thanks 1 times, giving thanks to others 50 times.
    I have made a mount. But those speeds are for when the spindle is mounted. When I mount the extruder, I will take the spindle off the Z plate.
    3 axis CNC/router / Alu profile frame....25mm Alu Cutting bed X=500mm Y=300mm Z=110mm.....Supported 25mm X rails ....Supported 20mm Y rails....Supported 20mm Z rails.....2.2kw Chinese WC spindle......"USB Breakout Board Interface 200KHz"....M542 Drivers..SY60STH86-3008BF Motors...running....Mach3 / Cambam / Emachineshop.

  4. #34
    True, you will be able to reach slightly faster feedrates after taking the spindle off. Well, drop a couple of photos after you have run your first couple of test prints.

  5. #35
    dudz's Avatar
    Lives in Bretagne, France. Last Activity: 20-05-2017 Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 256. Received thanks 1 times, giving thanks to others 50 times.
    will do. Still waiting for other parts to arrive
    3 axis CNC/router / Alu profile frame....25mm Alu Cutting bed X=500mm Y=300mm Z=110mm.....Supported 25mm X rails ....Supported 20mm Y rails....Supported 20mm Z rails.....2.2kw Chinese WC spindle......"USB Breakout Board Interface 200KHz"....M542 Drivers..SY60STH86-3008BF Motors...running....Mach3 / Cambam / Emachineshop.

  6. #36
    ................
    Last edited by vargai; 25-01-2015 at 01:33 PM. Reason: ims

  7. #37
    dudz's Avatar
    Lives in Bretagne, France. Last Activity: 20-05-2017 Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 256. Received thanks 1 times, giving thanks to others 50 times.
    How thick can I go with the aluminium bed ? (using a silicone heater of 900W 230V). The full size of the Aluminium is 470mm by 300mm. I have a 3mm piece but the span seems to large for 3mm. Can I go 5 or 6mm ? It will only be supported in the corners
    3 axis CNC/router / Alu profile frame....25mm Alu Cutting bed X=500mm Y=300mm Z=110mm.....Supported 25mm X rails ....Supported 20mm Y rails....Supported 20mm Z rails.....2.2kw Chinese WC spindle......"USB Breakout Board Interface 200KHz"....M542 Drivers..SY60STH86-3008BF Motors...running....Mach3 / Cambam / Emachineshop.

  8. #38
    There are few (or none) printers that use a 470mm long bed supported at the corners only. The reason is the aspect you mentioned yourself, you have a 470mm long sheet of aluminium supported at the ends only. There will definitely be some deflection at the middle of that length. If your deflection is 0.1mm and you are printing 0.1mm layers, you have a deflection of one full layer thickness at that spot. It can be suppressed by using a raft or setting a thicker first layer in your slicer, but you will soon find these methods inconvenient.

    I would assume a 5mm aluminium thickness would be required, but it also depends on the aluminium alloy in terms of stiffness. You will probably have an extra sheet of glass/mirror/borosilicate on top of it, which will be your actual printing surface. The extra glass layer will tend to remove the deflection. However, even so, if in theory the glass manages to keep its straightness while the aluminium is slightly bent at the middle, the missing contact surface will mean less heat conductivity.

    All printing surfaces over 300mm I have built were not supported by the 4 corners method. 3 parallel beams were laid under the bed - one on each side and one at the middle. No springs were used and during calibration the beams were shimmed under after checking the surface with a dial indicator.

    Silicone heaters are effective but more dangerous then the usual 12V/24V stuff. I would add a thermal fuse or two under that bed.

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  10. #39
    dudz's Avatar
    Lives in Bretagne, France. Last Activity: 20-05-2017 Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 256. Received thanks 1 times, giving thanks to others 50 times.
    Thanks. Very helpful. I did think about supporting it more or less the way you suggested, but I am paranoid about supporting underneath the silicone heater (I dont know how much stress the silicone heaters will stand). Because It is a CNC machine, the bed will be put on and taken off when I need to mill, so I need to make it as easy as poss
    3 axis CNC/router / Alu profile frame....25mm Alu Cutting bed X=500mm Y=300mm Z=110mm.....Supported 25mm X rails ....Supported 20mm Y rails....Supported 20mm Z rails.....2.2kw Chinese WC spindle......"USB Breakout Board Interface 200KHz"....M542 Drivers..SY60STH86-3008BF Motors...running....Mach3 / Cambam / Emachineshop.

  11. #40
    Silicone heaters should sustain the stress we are talking about here, but since yours goes directly into the wall plug, I would avoid giving any bright advice about the setup - if something goes wrong, it can cause major damage.

    If you don't wish to use the 3 beams method, you could then use 2 beams on the long 470mm side. This way you would have to worry about the bending on the small 300mm side only. With no central beam, the silicone heater will not be mechanically stressed. Beams will also replace the springs, which in my opinion are not a good choice for anything larger then 200x200. You could use spring washers or shims under the beams instead, to perfectly level the beam ends (which represent the 4 corners). Common 10x20 or 20x20 Profile 5 extrusions from Misumi/item/Rexroth are perfect candidates for the beams. Or you can just craft your own if you having a good fly cutter or rectifier machine.

    A method for switching between setups is kinda hard to suggest since I am not familiar with your machine. You will probably have some bolting spots near the center of your current router table.

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