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  1. #11
    i would use a propane torch, melt some aluminum and pour it in the hole. then machine it again. i have done it, it works. 15 min fix.
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  2. #12
    I would just plug the hole, then do a new hole...if you can machine the plug to fit snugly of course.

    .Me
    .Me

  3. #13
    Just slotted the holes in the end.. far easier and really no need to mess further, especially as no one will ever see them once the covers are on

    need to start thinking about a base/frame for this to sit on, and am struggling to find a control panel... steel enclosure IP55 or better and wih a mains isolator through the front panel so you cant open door while power is on... any suggestions?

  4. #14
    got some machining done this week, been a while since I ran a milling machine, but thanks to a friendly engineer, a bit of a refresher and use of a rather nice Bridgeport (no wear or backlash, probably the nicest BP I have ever used), Cant believe they let me loose on it really

    just got to blend the curves and finish a few of the non machined surfaces then drill, counterbore and tap about a hundred holes.... so only a day or so marking out
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  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by mike os View Post
    Just slotted the holes in the end.. far easier and really no need to mess further, especially as no one will ever see them once the covers are on

    need to start thinking about a base/frame for this to sit on, and am struggling to find a control panel... steel enclosure IP55 or better and wih a mains isolator through the front panel so you cant open door while power is on... any suggestions?
    This is where I got my enclosure, it was a good price at the time but things can change quickly; http://www.fastlec.co.uk/control-automation/enclosures
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

  6. #16
    they look usefull, thanks Eddy

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by mike os View Post
    need to start thinking about a base/frame for this to sit on, and am struggling to find a control panel... steel enclosure IP55 or better and wih a mains isolator through the front panel so you cant open door while power is on... any suggestions?
    These are who i use good price and nice quality. http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...res/index.html

  8. #18
    cheers guys.. I will try to take some pics soon

    basic question I guess but not one I have managed to find a satisfactory answer to....

    Hiwin rails and bearing block fitting (and hopefully removal)

    I need to trial fit some of the carriage parts to check a couple of things work as we want.... so I need to temporary fit the rails & bearings. Reading the manual it seems the rails must be horizontal when i fit the bearings... ie bolt holes up, slide on using the plastic packing piece as a guide and I assume ball bearing keeper?

    Is this the only way to do it?
    can I remove the bearings using the reverse ie sliding off the rail onto the plastic packing piece?

    are the balls free to fall out if I get it wrong?

    thanks

  9. #19
    The Hiwin bearings I used needed the plastic keeper in place otherwise the balls fell out, I found out the hard way. I found that by being careful the bearings would slide onto the rail if it was horizontal or vertical but in all cases the plastic keeper must be kept pressed up against the end of the rail leaving no gaps for the balls to escape. I can't remember if this applied to both the 15 and 20 sizes but it certainly applied to the 15's. Having them well greased helps to keep the balls in place.
    Last edited by EddyCurrent; 18-02-2015 at 12:10 PM.
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to EddyCurrent For This Useful Post:


  11. #20
    thought that would be the case... thanks eddy

    removal the same way?

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