Don't make it more complicated than it is. And RTFM. Read the manual i mean Ok i read it for you so:
What you need to make all work in real life and what you would actually use are exactly 6 things:
1. connect the 3 wire cable to the VFD to power it - 2 x 230v AC wires to L and N to power the VFD and connect ground wire to PE
2. connect U V W to the spindle and the shielding of the cable to the spindle ground or body.
3. connect one of your BOB relay outputs to X1 and Com. When the relay is closed by Mach3 the spindle will start
4. connect via 2 wire the 10VDC output from the C6 board to the VFD, where +10v goes to AVI and ground to COM on the VFD. Thats the spindle speed control
5. optional: split the estop wire and connect both sides to the Y1B and Y1C, so when the VFD is powered all will be ok and the continuity normally closed, if the VFD trips due to bit dig in material or whatever the contact will open and CNC will Estop.
6. program the VFD:
assuming you have bought 2.2kw water cooled spindle you must leave all default and change only the following:
P002 just check if its right for the motor you have bought, 220V default value
these 2 are not clear to me. Normally on other inverters its the only place to say the motor accelerates and decelerates for 10 seconds. But in the manual i saw other place also. So - program them as bellow and if the motor continues to accelerate after 10sec and is not completely stopped after command for 10 seconds, then clean them both to 0
P013 10 and remember at mach3 to make for 10 seconds spindle start and stop delay at the spindle screen
P025 0 this when you have successfully control the start run and speed via mach3. You wont need more to touch the VFD for any reason after that
P064 1 again-you don't need to touch the VFD once all is working, all can,should and i would say: for the sake of not forgetting something - must be done via Mach3 Do yourself a favor and buy a good screen like MachStdMill
P065 1 same what i said above
P067 0 believe me on this, you don't need reversal . the only thing that could happen is you make a mistake and break expensive bit, have been there, done that
PS. Thats it, its not so difficult. Check again what i say for any mistakes and be happy chappy
PS2. Yes, my VFD has connected PE ground both to the ground of cable that powers the VFD and both to the spindle cable and hence the spindle ground. Difference is that i have the separate ground connections on the VFD to do that / Mitsubishi brand/ So i believe both ways is ok. Even if you don't connect Spindle ground to VFD ground it will work, but remember to properly ground the machine itself
Yes it will work fine the C6 board is putting out a DC signal.
Ok well this is a different diagram which looks like the Analog com is isolated from input logic and will work. It also resembles the terminals on the actual VFD.
So in this case you are ok and the C35 board will work. Wire it like below.
The Following User Says Thank You to JAZZCNC For This Useful Post:
Man you guys are awesome! thanks a million silyavski for the details. and Jazz for the confirmed diagram!
now just waiting for the Spindle shipment to try it out!
30-04-2015 #74connect U V W to the spindle
The Following User Says Thank You to Clive S For This Useful Post:
Heya everyone, I've been shy of posting any updates since last time because I'm afraid of all the judgement I will receive from you hehe. Mostly because it has been a rough half year of finding a good workshop to machine all my plans, unfortunately in my country the quality of workshops is pretty low compared to you guys. and I am no machinist so I don't have the skills nor the equipment to do it by myself. (but hopefully in the future)
So I hope whenever I post something please don't judge anything that is not square or straight or doesn't look machined well as my goal was to get this thing running and be able to cut even if not perfect the amount of knowledge and skill I have acquired from building this is a ton.
But of course any tips and constructive criticism is appreciated!
of course lots of knowledge and wisdom was gained from the posts of people in this forum. my plans was based on your comments plus other machines designs which were posted here. again its not the best but I think I'm satisfied with what I came up with.
It's not complete but almost all parts will be ready this week and I will start assembling everything.
I had a issue with shipping my spindle because china post takes forever to reach my country so the supplier shipped me another one which hopefully be received this week. ( I think the original shipment got lost, or maybe I'll receive it after a year! heh )
the first thing I did when I started is build the electronics panel so I have tested it before and got it all working, the only thing left is to test the VFD with the spindle and hopefully make it controlled via mach3 with the generous instructions from the above posters.
so for now a small update, here is a video of my x-axis one side testing with a drill. I have switched the frame from Alu T-Slots to steel square sections, it came out decent but might need adjustment
Last edited by Noplace; 03-07-2015 at 05:47 AM.
Well it seems to be coming along nicely don't be worried about any judgement as it is generally meant well to help you along the way.
If it was me I would drive the screws through belts with a 1:2 reduction as that might help with resonance etc. Keep up the good work. ..Clive
I like driving through belts because it saves trying to line things up. However if you simply bolt the motor to then end of the screw and do not care how much it wobbles and twists, all you have to do is stop it turning and you can have a much better connection than you could possibly get through an expensive coupling :D
Thanks guys will consider the suggestions.
now all i have remaining to machine is the motor plates, any advise on the designs ? the motor screw holes are not in correct position so please ignore that.
Looking really good, well done.
Be aware that if you turn a stepper using a drill it will generate power (like an alternator or generator). If it is connected to the stepper driver board this can be a bad idea!
For motor mounting plates you need to have slots not holes so you can tension the belt. 20mm or so slot is a good start but you'll need to decide based on the standard belt lengths available and making sure you can tension it. There are some online belt length calculators available so make sure you use those and place the centre of the slot in the nominal position.
The motor plates are usually pocketed with the motor set into the plate allowing the drive belt to run free over the top surface. You've got the motor sitting flush with the rear surface so you are having to cut all the material away in the middle to allow the belt to run. Not saying your way won't work but its usually done the other way to keep some strength in the bracket.
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