I was going to say I never had any major E-Stop issues with my Denford Cyclone lathe (from what I've seen, Denford used a pretty standard E-stop setup across most of their machines), but then the KFlop allowed me a lot more flexibility in handling E-stops, and I added extra relays so the servo fault outputs triggered an E-stop. However to achieve clearing a drive fault situation, I had to use a custom program in the KFlop that clears the E-stop signal, then waits for all the drives to exit fault status before resuming normal business.
I used Kinco servos from Zapp, which allowed me to configure inputs/outputs how I wanted them to work, but I'm not sure what drives you're using, or what timing sequence they need.
I'm guessing your problem is the Drive Enable/Drive Fault timing once you're into an e-stop?
Your DER should be connected to a Drive Enable output from Mach3, so unless Mach is active, nothing should move. Simplest option may be to add an override push button to disconnect the drive fault input and/or trigger the drive reset so you can fool Mach into exiting an e-stop, and get the drives back online/out of fault.Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.
Thoughts on this to drive Mach3?
Windows copy is legal
Not massively powerful, but its not a Pentium 4 either
Not a lot of upgrade options.
also dont understand why, when Mach3 goes into 'reset mode' that the machine moves itself in X and Y positive direction. I think disabling the drives will help here, currently the DER relay is kept powered (well, zeroed, 24V is permanent) via hardwiring.
Ill swap the logic and then use one of the enable outputs, like what I am doing with the new Kinco drive that replaced a damaged IRT drive.Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.
Capacitive is useless in a workshop environment, as it doesn't like gloves, or oily/wet fingers (just try a touchscreen phone with wet/cold/oily fingers to get a good example of just how poor they are!)
Resistive isn't quite as accurate, but doesn't care what you use to touch it.Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.
Slightly off topic.
Suggested vendors for:-
Alu, Brass - Clickmetal?
Decent Quality endmills / engraving bits / etc ?
T Nuts (I got some with the machine, but not enough) - 10mm.
Parallel bars etc (the items you put under material in a vice to ensure its flat)
General holding kit - ebay has loads, what is the quality like?
The CS Labs unit actually has something called 'HV Enable'. Its for enabling drives, just wired it, works well. It will stop within 1ms if there is a fault or anything that it is not happy with.
What USB/Serial lead have you got?
There was an issue recently with FTDI clones, and FTDI releasing a windows driver that bricked them.
I'd guess the screen will be capacitive, but the quick check is to try working it with something like the blunt end/top of a pen.
Alu/brass, figure out what you need and do some searching. If you'll be buying full lengths/sheets, it's often worth trying your local metal suppliers. Personally, I use a mix of local for full size bits, metalsandplastics for cut alu/brass bars, and ebay for odds and ends for one off projects.
Endmills I mostly use APT (shop-apt.co.uk IIRC), as I know I'm getting decent cutters. Ebay is cheaper, but I've found quality can vary. Before you buy anything, run some figures through FS Wizard / G-Wizard (I personally prefer FS Wizard/HSM Advisor as HSMA I think is easier to use/configure) and try out different speeds/sizes/flutes and compare to what power/feedrates you have available. On a Triac, I'd guess you'll be wanting 2 flute to keep a decent chipload for the given RPM/feedrates, but run the figures and see.
Holding Kits, you can't really go wrong with the generic T-slot kits from ebay as a starting point. Once you get going and have some experience, you'll probably find you'll want to invest in other mounting methods depending on what you're doing. I'm just in the process (was, I'm currently waiting for a helicoil kit after I picked up a 4.8mm drill instead of the 4.2 to make a couple M5 threads) of making up a work plate that'll use Mitee bite clamps to hold flat bar in place, as I'm fed up with clamps being in the way and needing extra material to clamp.
For other bits, ArcEuroTrade is good. Not the cheapest, but they're stuff is always good quality, unlike some of the ebay offerings. They also dispatch quickly. Personally, just buy what you need when you need it. I've got stuff I bought years ago that I thought would be handy, but has never been used. On the other hand, it can be annoying not being able to get a quick job done because you've not got that couple pound widget that would make it so much easier!Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.
FOR SALE: Denford Triac CNC PCBy ricey3 in forum Items For SaleReplies: 5Last Post: 06-01-2016, 08:18 AM
By mikeulike in forum Denford MillsReplies: 3Last Post: 02-06-2015, 02:59 PM
By large519 in forum Items On eBay UKReplies: 0Last Post: 29-04-2015, 04:34 PM
CONVERSION: Denford Triac Mach3 conversionBy rnr107 in forum Conversion Build LogsReplies: 11Last Post: 23-10-2014, 01:44 PM
WANTED: Denford TriacBy edwardsjc in forum Items WantedReplies: 13Last Post: 20-08-2012, 07:17 AM