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  1. #181
    Chaz's Avatar
    Lives in Ickenham, West London, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 15 Hours Ago Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 973. Received thanks 69 times, giving thanks to others 42 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by m_c View Post
    What USB/Serial lead have you got?
    There was an issue recently with FTDI clones, and FTDI releasing a windows driver that bricked them.
    .
    I'd guess the screen will be capacitive, but the quick check is to try working it with something like the blunt end/top of a pen.
    .
    Alu/brass, figure out what you need and do some searching. If you'll be buying full lengths/sheets, it's often worth trying your local metal suppliers. Personally, I use a mix of local for full size bits, metalsandplastics for cut alu/brass bars, and ebay for odds and ends for one off projects.
    .
    Endmills I mostly use APT (shop-apt.co.uk IIRC), as I know I'm getting decent cutters. Ebay is cheaper, but I've found quality can vary. Before you buy anything, run some figures through FS Wizard / G-Wizard (I personally prefer FS Wizard/HSM Advisor as HSMA I think is easier to use/configure) and try out different speeds/sizes/flutes and compare to what power/feedrates you have available. On a Triac, I'd guess you'll be wanting 2 flute to keep a decent chipload for the given RPM/feedrates, but run the figures and see.
    .
    Holding Kits, you can't really go wrong with the generic T-slot kits from ebay as a starting point. Once you get going and have some experience, you'll probably find you'll want to invest in other mounting methods depending on what you're doing. I'm just in the process (was, I'm currently waiting for a helicoil kit after I picked up a 4.8mm drill instead of the 4.2 to make a couple M5 threads) of making up a work plate that'll use Mitee bite clamps to hold flat bar in place, as I'm fed up with clamps being in the way and needing extra material to clamp.
    .
    For other bits, ArcEuroTrade is good. Not the cheapest, but they're stuff is always good quality, unlike some of the ebay offerings. They also dispatch quickly. Personally, just buy what you need when you need it. I've got stuff I bought years ago that I thought would be handy, but has never been used. On the other hand, it can be annoying not being able to get a quick job done because you've not got that couple pound widget that would make it so much easier!
    http://plugable.com/drivers/prolific

    Supposed to be decent, many reviews. The lead is ultra short tho, not ideal.

  2. #182
    Chaz's Avatar
    Lives in Ickenham, West London, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 15 Hours Ago Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 973. Received thanks 69 times, giving thanks to others 42 times.
    So the coolant pump was seized. Managed to free it although cant get the 'bowl' thing at the end open to clean it. Ive tried both directions, no fluid coming out. Does anyone know if I need to prime the pump?

  3. #183
    Chaz's Avatar
    Lives in Ickenham, West London, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 15 Hours Ago Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 973. Received thanks 69 times, giving thanks to others 42 times.
    On a similar topic, what fluids do I use? The stuff in there looks old, ideally would like to replace it.

  4. #184
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 9 Hours Ago Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 1,831. Received thanks 192 times, giving thanks to others 5 times.
    Provided the pump head is submerged, it should pump. Can you see if the rotor itself is turning?
    .
    Fluid depends on what you'll be machining. There's not a coolant that is ideal for everything, but there are some that are generally good on most things.
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

  5. #185
    Chaz's Avatar
    Lives in Ickenham, West London, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 15 Hours Ago Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 973. Received thanks 69 times, giving thanks to others 42 times.
    Ok. It's working now. Had to check direction a few times. Lots of dirt in the pipes etc. Pump not healthy but manages some pressure now.

    Can anyone link a fluid I can use mainly for ALU?

  6. #186
    Chaz's Avatar
    Lives in Ickenham, West London, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 15 Hours Ago Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 973. Received thanks 69 times, giving thanks to others 42 times.
    So, not a trick question .... but would like some confirmation of what my X and Y steps should be. I have it very close but Id like to know how the number is calculated. I know the formula, but on the current info I have, the 725 value does not look correct.

    The issue is that I dont know the config of the drives. I do not have access to them and therefore there could be a host of different 'steps per rev' measurement. could be a number of values.

    So If I take some of these, I cannot match the value that I am currently using which is 725. This seems very accurate, I am getting measurements within 1% but I need to do more testing. I may have a bit of backlash which *might* account for some inaccuracy, certainly on my Y.

    Please see the table below. I take a number of options and nothing matches 725. I then swap the gear ratio around and the closest I get is 819.2.

    The third table (in green) I simply reverse engineer from 725 and get some random steps / rev, could either of these be correct?

    The claimed maximum output from the driver manual is 1024, but am aware that this could be multiplied by 2 or 4?

    Thoughts?

    Thanks
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  7. #187
    i2i's Avatar
    Lives in Cardiff, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 23-12-2016 Has been a member for 7-8 years. Has a total post count of 693. Received thanks 30 times, giving thanks to others 0 times.
    for a stepper fitted machine, that has 400 steps per rev, and the gear reduction is 2.5:1, with the 5mm pitch you get 200 steps per unit in metric. For a 2:1 gear reduction it should be 160 steps per unit. All you have to do now is equate that to the steps per rev your motor has.

    steps per rev / ( ballscrew pitch/gear reduction ) = steps per unit

    If you have a bit of backlash check the angular contact bearings at the pulley end of each ballscrew, they may need adjusting.

    Ps. don't forget to fold the tab washer flat to adjust the nut.

  8. #188
    Chaz's Avatar
    Lives in Ickenham, West London, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 15 Hours Ago Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 973. Received thanks 69 times, giving thanks to others 42 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by i2i View Post
    for a stepper fitted machine, that has 400 steps per rev, and the gear reduction is 2.5:1, with the 5mm pitch you get 200 steps per unit in metric. For a 2:1 gear reduction it should be 160 steps per unit. All you have to do now is equate that to the steps per rev your motor has.

    steps per rev / ( ballscrew pitch/gear reduction ) = steps per unit

    If you have a bit of backlash check the angular contact bearings at the pulley end of each ballscrew, they may need adjusting.

    Ps. don't forget to fold the tab washer flat to adjust the nut.
    Thanks, so based on my pulleys being 12 / 24 (motor end / ballscrew end), 5mm screws, using 725 steps for damn near 100% accuracy, what do you believe the steps per rev is on the current IRT 1306 drives via the simulated encoder outputs?

  9. #189
    Chaz's Avatar
    Lives in Ickenham, West London, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 15 Hours Ago Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 973. Received thanks 69 times, giving thanks to others 42 times.
    I have a favour to ask, not sure if anyone can help or suggest someone that can.

    I bought a replacement drive from a vendor. Before I bought the drive, I asked if it can work with my current CS Labs and Mach 3 setup. I was told that it would.

    Once the drive was installed, it was apparent that it would not work, not unless additional electronics was added as it does not output a suitable differential encoder output.

    I attempted to get the drive refunded. The seller rejected this. Eventually he agreed that the drive doesnt work as I need and offered a partial refund. This was then upped later but not 100% as I requested.

    Distance selling rules allow me to return the device however as this was a seller from EU (Finland), there is a clause that states that I can return only if the device / item has not been used.

    I ended up raising a dispute with Paypal and forwarded them all the email correspondence that highlights that the vendor has accepted that the drive cannot output differential encoder outputs as needed (without building some custom circuitry).

    Paypal have now come back and asked that I make contact with 'an expert' who can verify this. This is their request.

    "Please obtain a document from an unbiased third-party, such as a dealer, repair shop, appraiser, or another individual or organisation that's qualified in the area of the item in question (other than yourself), which details the extent of the damage or clearly explains how the item received significantly differs from the item that was advertised.

    This document must be on a letterhead that includes the name, address, and phone number of the individual, business, or organisation so that we may contact them if necessary."

    I spoke to them at length this morning as I dont think this is reasonable. Why should someone, who has no role in this, assist me (at their cost and time).

    I told them that the emails confirm what the seller had indicated. I was then told that emails could be altered. They offered a new option which was even more complex.

    So, my question is, is there anyone that is either on this site or falls under the category of 'unbiased third party etc' that is willing to look at the info and put something in a letter than I can send to Paypal for the refund?

    If not, Ill reluctantly accept the part refund offer that I had and cut my losses on this.

    Thanks


  10. Give me a link to the driver that you ordered.
    Also did you get an email form them to say that it will work with the CS labs controller? I find it strange that a servo driver that accepts +/-10V and works with a resolver would not have emulated encoder output.

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