. .
Page 6 of 7 FirstFirst ... 4567 LastLast
  1. #51
    Quote Originally Posted by andy_con View Post
    yeah so square up on the table using a test dial.

    clamp

    drill some holes

    remove and fix down to a jig

    put back in mill and re-square using test dial

    machine the rest.

    or put straight onto a vacuum table and do the whole thing in one go
    No no your making it far more complex than needed. If one off then just have base board you can screw into. Clamp it down do the first op which is drilling cycle then stick a few screws into it. Remove clamps and carry on with rest of the cycle.

    If got lots of same to do then do the same but with permantent fixture jig with toggle clamps and holes already in to accept threaded bolts.

    Standard stuff really and not complicated or timely.!

  2. #52
    meh still not as good as a vacuum table ;-)

  3. #53
    Quote Originally Posted by andy_con View Post
    meh still not as good as a vacuum table ;-)
    Well all can say then is you got too much bloody money. .

  4. #54
    haha if only...

    I like to do thing properly first time, sometimes DIY just isn't good enough.

    ive got a tormach touch probe, z height setter, tapmatic tapping heads, threadmills the lot. I like to just do it properly

  5. #55
    Neale's Avatar
    Lives in Plymouth, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 8 Hours Ago Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 1,729. Received thanks 295 times, giving thanks to others 11 times.
    DIY vacuum might be a bit more tricky, but I don't see how an expensive high quality vacuum system overcomes the biggest resetting issue which you have already mentioned in passing. What's all this nonsense about clocking each piece? Clamp down the spoil board, then use the router to drill holes for locating pins. You'll surely do something like this with a vacuum hold-down? After that, it's difficult to believe that toggle clamps are much slower than vacuum. The difference in cost could go to some really nice cutters, which might even reduce the cutting time by more than the difference in clamping time!

  6. #56
    Quote Originally Posted by andy_con View Post
    haha if only...

    I like to do thing properly first time, sometimes DIY just isn't good enough.

    ive got a tormach touch probe, z height setter, tapmatic tapping heads, threadmills the lot. I like to just do it properly
    Ye I know what you mean but this isn't DIY technique it's the way it's often done in industry. Vacuum isn't widely used for small parts and those with lots of thru holes and thats for a good reason.! . . . It's very very expensive to do correctly and can be unreliable. Fixtures and Jigs work and are repeatable time after time..!! . . . Like this.!!

    How well do you think your standard vacuum system would do with holding this down with so many cuts and a deep depth of cut.?

    Last edited by JAZZCNC; 10-09-2015 at 09:05 PM.

  7. #57
    is that your machine?

    suppose I could do something like that, I just like datrons way ;)

  8. #58
    Quote Originally Posted by andy_con View Post
    is that your machine?

    suppose I could do something like that, I just like datrons way ;)
    No not my machine and I like Datrons way but I haven't got £5000 + spare so I use £30 toggle clamps/bolts and it takes 1 minute longer.!
    I then cut assured that the parts arn't going to slip and slid lossing accurecy or worse still get embedded into my neck when they Vacuum alone decides enoughs enough.!!

    Horses for courses really. Vac is great for thin parts with no holes or large parts with few holes. Small with lots or large holes and it quickly becomes not funny.!

    Anyway think i've said all that's to be said so hope you make the right choice in end so your wallet is stress free.!! . . . . . .. If not then you really have got too much money. . Lol

  9. #59
    lol

    im very grateful for your help

  10. #60
    Dean,very illustrative video, that's exactly how i work also. With the addition that when i have pass through profile and holes,sometimes i fix below a 3 mm sacrificial expanded plastic board . The board is not needed when routing wood or plastic, only for aluminum, cause for the aluminum the bit should go a bit in the sacrificial board for a clean cut.

    Andy, as for repetitive parts like the panels example, if they come in cut shapes or as i do some hundreds of same pieces, the best solution is to make a custom vacuum fixture. Its not a great deal, simple to make once you know the principles involved and is very useful. Much better than universal table. You once align the fixture and then go.
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  11. The Following User Says Thank You to Boyan Silyavski For This Useful Post:


Page 6 of 7 FirstFirst ... 4567 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. I want a vacuum table!
    By Tenson in forum Machine Discussion
    Replies: 44
    Last Post: 08-01-2014, 07:40 PM
  2. Vacuum Table Advice
    By Minium in forum Milling Machines, Builds & Conversions
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 13-11-2012, 09:52 AM
  3. Custom Vacuum Table 'Hold Down' System - piping/valve advice
    By FlightCaseCo in forum Machine Discussion
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 16-01-2012, 06:56 PM
  4. Replies: 1
    Last Post: 01-01-2012, 12:34 AM
  5. DIY Vacuum Table
    By templecorran in forum Machine Discussion
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 10-11-2010, 12:11 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •