Also with small fast router machines it's very easy to jog from one side to the other which can result in banging into end stops etc often. Esp when first learning. Again I agree a machine that breaks with just a small limit crash is Crap but enough of this banging and eventually damage will occur so best avoided and for just a few sheckels more is it really worth not having.??
Homing switches are THE most useful thing you can put on your machine. I'll give examples to why.
Only yesterday I was cutting parts in large expensive sheet of aluminium when the cutter broke. The part wasn't damaged but it was my last cutter so the Job was stopped. The corner of the material where I choose Work Zero had been cut away. So how without Home switches do I get back into absolute position when my reference point is gone.?
Yes I could go back into Cam and choose some hole to re-reference from etc but this all costs time and effort. Home switches provided resonable quality remove all this hassle.
Example #2 Same large piece of material and Large Job with multiple parts nested into material. So large I don't have time to do in one sitting. Again Zero ref has been cutaway. Home switches allow me to pause the Job or break the Job into smaller jobs and still quickly get back into position.
There are other examples like power cuts or PC crashes etc that back the need for Home swithces but again for the small cost it's silly not having them.
The only thing is that if you need high accurecy homing then you need Good Home Switches. I find even your Cheap Chinese Proximity switches are more than good enough for 99% of Routers or DIY'ers using Milling machines.
So for the Small cost and the fact Limits and Homes can share the same switch it's Stupid not to have them.!!
Last edited by JAZZCNC; 21-09-2015 at 02:44 PM.
I ran without homes and limits for several months, then added some switches (but never got round to wiring them up) and one day jogged into one and smashed it to pieces and banged into the end stop. Makes you realise how powerful these machines are and to keep your hands out of the way.
Just got round to adding limits and homes so should be OK now.
Thanks - lots of really useful info. I know a lot more about limit/home switches now.
So 3 switches it is. Based on the above, I cannot really see why you would want to use separate home switches - unless you want some very special home position?
And let us switch tune. I have updated my model with a single Nema 34 motor for the Y-axis and an adjustable mounting flange, as suggested by Silyavski. Is 20T pulleys/idler pulleys ok for this, or should you choose larger ones?
I have been thinking about how to design a holder so that you can route dove tails at the end of boards.
This is not a function I will be using every day, so it should be simple and it should not compromise the machine in other ways.
I read the thread by EddyCurrent and how he has done it. It looks good and stable and I am sure it works very well.
However, I don’t want this function to interfere with the precision of the bed, so I am not too happy with the removable plate. Also, for handling, I find it somewhat impractical to have this opening in the middle of the machine. All that is needed is a jig that will hold the work piece in an accurate and repeatable position. So I was thinking of placing it at the end of the machine, as shown in the model. You simply fasten the work piece with one or two clamps. I may have to extend the cantilevers/ rails to get sufficient overhang for the spindle or alternatively reduce the length of the frame, since this machine is already getting fairly large.
I remember Jazz showing (it had a red frame I think) a design that did just this, it could take panels etc on the front to rout the ends. This is one thing that I'd on my list for mk2.......
Last edited by njhussey; 24-09-2015 at 08:04 PM.Neil...
Thanks JAZZ. This is actually a brilliant design. It is simple to make, it can be removed from the machine when you are not using it and the width it can accomodate is adjustable.
The only thing that may not be optimum is the thickness of the material you can clamp. I remember using this type of clamps (although much smaller) and the reach is not so big. I tried to find the reach for similar types. I only found this specification for a single one and it was 3". I am not sure if that means it will go from 0 to 3" or if it is just the maximum. Maybe you can use this type of lever clamp instead (although they are quite expensive):
There are many ways to do this and many types of clamps to help but the simple and easy way's are often the most affective. In this case it would be a simple spreader bar which is bowed so when clamping wide boards pressure is applied in the centre.
I was only really offering simple example of how to do it but not really being specific regards clamping etc.
Last edited by JAZZCNC; 25-09-2015 at 12:12 PM.
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