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  1. #61
    A small update to the dovetail jig. Since you can easily remove the vertical braces, I figured that you could just clamp thicker things directly to the base plate with clamps - same system as used in the Festool worktable (you can use the same clamps). If you are normally routing items that are not so wide, you can also have one of the vertical braces fixed tightly as a fence to ensure that the work items are perpendicular to the bed.
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  2. #62
    Quote Originally Posted by hanermo2 View Post
    ??
    I found an Em808 at 115 €.
    Add 130 for motor, 30 for proper cables and connectors, == 275 €.
    Hannu I didn't say EM808 I said EM806 and the AM882 which is pretty much the same drive can be bought for £50 add £25 for 3Nm nema 23 and that's well under £100. I fit these all the time to routers and they easily handle what is required for router machine this size.

  3. #63
    Quote Originally Posted by ngundtoft View Post
    A small update to the dovetail jig. Since you can easily remove the vertical braces, I figured that you could just clamp thicker things directly to the base plate with clamps - same system as used in the Festool worktable (you can use the same clamps). If you are normally routing items that are not so wide, you can also have one of the vertical braces fixed tightly as a fence to ensure that the work items are perpendicular to the bed.
    If it was me I'd have a combination of 3 things.
    #1 Clamps as shown.
    #2 Matrix Grid of Threaded holes for clamping Odd shapes with mill type clamps.
    #3 several larger holes for Festo type clamps for deep items.

    Oh and I forgot to say I'd get lift those bottom rails up about 75-100mm to create short stumpy feet for levleing and lose 2 of the diagonals wich are not required. Less welding, less chance of heat distortion.

  4. #64
    Yes, good idea JAZZ. Some holes with T-nuts would increase the possibilities for fastening things. I actually thought that I extended the legs under the lower frame, but apparently I didn't. Also eliminated the lower beam I inserted for mounting the dovetail jig. I removed 2 of the diagonals since they are not required.
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  5. #65
    Yes, I agee on the costs.
    Many of my choices would be different if I did not do things for commercial uses.
    Haas has the lowest costs in the industry.

    A servo amplifier (ie driver) (just electronics) costs 500€.
    The same from yakawa or siemens costs 2500€.
    The ones I use cost about 350 for the same size, circa 1kW.

    Like I said, the MPG wheel is only 30 or 40.

  6. #66
    If money was no object I would go for the servo motors.

    Do you have a link to a good MPG for 30 or 40€? The ones I found were approx. twice that.

  7. #67
    Quote Originally Posted by ngundtoft View Post
    Yes, good idea JAZZ. Some holes with T-nuts would increase the possibilities for fastening things.
    One of the things you'll probably use in vertical position is lower bracket or shelf like setup to help support and locate material when clamping. This makes repeat work like dovetails much easier and the Thread holes come in use full for things like this so I'd take them all the way to bottom.

  8. #68
    Quote Originally Posted by ngundtoft View Post
    Do you have a link to a good MPG for 30 or 40€? The ones I found were approx. twice that.
    Depends if your just talking about the MPG pulse generator like hannu probably is or what people often mistakenly call MPG but should call Pendant with all the other controls on it.?

    Here's 2 of the MPG pulse generators. 25 pulses per Rev and 100 P/R. 100 is most commonly used I think.!

    http://www.aliexpress.com/store/prod...540014466.html

    http://www.aliexpress.com/store/prod...506063450.html

  9. #69
    Hi JAZZ - yes absolutely, some way of fitting an end stop is very practical. I also realised that the "overhang", or working distance from the face of the dovetail jig, is only 91mm. So maybe I should extend the Y-axis rails by 50mm or so.
    Thanks for the links. If this is the type that hanermo2 uses, I guess that you will need 3 - or maybe the Pendant type is just as good?

  10. #70
    It seems I am getting close to having a mechanical design that will fulfill my requirements. However, there is still one point on my list that I need to look into. I would like to have some kind of adjustable bed. I will mainly be working with wood, so I think an MDF plate will be sufficient for that, and also with wood the fairly long Z-axis will not be a problem. But for aluminium I think it will be good to lift the bed for better stability. This bed could be smaller and also have provision for clamping the work material.
    Something like this:

    If anyone has come up with a mechanically good construction for raising/lowering the bed, I would love to have some info/links.
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