now I'm nearing completion of my machine, I just need to figure out the best approach to make a bed for it.
I'm thinking of mounting a T-slot bed with the slots being horizontal in relation to the front (as opposed to vertical slots in standard routers) , in any case I need the size to fit this set of clamps :
http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/F...S-16587nm.html which has 10mm t-nuts , anyone has any idea where I can get the bed made and wouldnt cost an arm and a leg?
I also designed one in solidworks but I doubt it would be cheap to get it custom machined than a ready alu made one.
appreciate any input!
What size is your bed? I'm thinking of doing 10mm T slots in my 20mm thick base but obviously going to struggle cutting them in situ as I can't cut full width or length....Neil...
I need it around 580x800mm , I thought of getting a t-slot cutter and doing it myself but I'm not confident enough yet to try hehe.
even though my bed area is 690x1000mm but the spindle cant reach all that space, so the effective area is less, and also it would give me space from all around to insert nuts and so (if i go with the horizontal option)
did a quick search and found this company http://www.jashmetrology.com/product...s-base-plates/
they sent an email with a pdf to fill with all the details of what I require, but I'm pretty sure its going to be expensive
I'm going to cut 16mm wide x 6mm deep channels in the base and then bolt 5mm thick strip on top to make the slots. Just not sure of the spacing yet. I'll get my router to cut the base...just got to jump on the CAD first....Neil...
I did some comparison price wise , plus i designed some cheaper and sturdier solutions, look post #165
Personally i finished using only UPN140 profiles, no spaces, and a lot of threaded fixing holes, and honestly next time i make a machine for sb. i will possibly directly integrate them in the structure
Here/ welding & fabrication bech project/ you could see how i fixed them to the table. Holes as big as the bolt head and nut one size larger than bolt, soldered at the bottom side. All fixing holes are tapped using my Makita drill driver at 12-16 so i would not break the bit. Good threading fluid is essential. Every 500 holes change tap. That for people with big machines, like mine.
As you can check the comparison, that's the cheapest and possibly the strongest DIY table design ever .
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