1. #1
    Any suggestions please for modestly priced software to calculate speeds and feeds.

  2. #2
    It depends on your definition of modestly priced but I use HSM Advisor and have found it to be excellent, you can run it as a free demo for 30 days before deciding whether to purchase,

    - Nick

  3. #3
    Hi Leadhead,

    there are two good priced ones that I use:

    Gwizard from CNCCookbook.com expensive but will allow you to buy a life long license

    And

    FSWizard: http://zero-divide.net/index.php?page=fswizard ( The website version is free but materials are limited)

    The latter also has an Android app that costs around 12.

    To be honest, I cross check between the two to be sure things do not go south.

    Some CAM programs will do the calculations for you too but again, double check.

    Regards

    George
    https://emvioeng.com
    Machine tools and 3D printing supplies. Expanding constantly.

  4. #4
    Chaz's Avatar
    Lives in Ickenham, West London, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 7 Hours Ago Has been a member for 4-5 years. Has a total post count of 973. Received thanks 69 times, giving thanks to others 42 times.
    I use FS Wizard and happy with it for what I need.

    I found some of the others such as GWizard too complicated and with so many variables, easy to make a mistake.

    Once you find feeds / speeds that work for your setup, you will know what numbers to use if you cut the same type of material instead of a lot of variation.

  5. #5
    Thanks - I am working with FS wizard 30 day trial. When you get more deeply into it, the comprehensive contents are more apparent. Very impressive. Probably get my purse out of the attic and go for the subscription.

    George - All arrived thanks"

  6. #6
    I use the 3 Year Floating License Subscription of HSM advisor which includes the FS wizard for android. I still have to try the FS wizard though.

    I believe that's best for starters, as the program is constantly updated with better features. It has tons of features that help understand better whats happening while cutting, which i see as the main benefit.

    Most importantly with a glance i can see the trade off between material removal rate, spindle power for the cut, feed rate and depth and quality of cut. So i can adjust accordingly.
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

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  8. #7
    Rye's Avatar
    Lives in Sheffield, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 6 Days Ago Has been a member for 2-3 years. Has a total post count of 36. Received thanks 3 times, giving thanks to others 0 times.
    At the moment I have a 6 mm 4 flute end-mill (broke my 3mm and still waiting for more bits to arrive). I need to cut a shape out of 4 mm acrylic, but I'm not sure the speed & feed-rates I'm using are correct(16000 RPM with a feed rate of 550). I've just had a go at the on-line FS Wizard and it looks fairly decent, but a little complicated - so I'm not sure if I'm setting it up correctly(it gave me 16000 RPM with FR 1623).

    What speed/feed rates would you guys recommend for cutting acrylic with a generic 6 mm 4 flute end-mill?
    Last edited by Rye; 01-11-2015 at 12:48 AM.

  9. #8
    Difficult to say without knowing the machine. The sturdier the machine the deeper you can go and faster, the idea is also to make it happen faster or it will melt. I hope you know this is not the cutter for the job?
    Anyway, i would not go deep - 1mm or less and with a sharp cutter and machine with supported square rails the program says 15000 RPM and 3800mm/m for 2 flute cutter, so double that up for a 4 flute cutter.
    On a flimsy machine with v bearings and belts i cut it for sure without any problem using much more slower RPM /6000/ and much slower feed / 40ipm/ but you know the chatter heats a lot things up, so that's why.

    So you see, depends on the sharpness of the bit, the ability to clear chips and the rigidity of the machine. The bad thing with that plastic is that until you figure the real speed the bit clogs and usually brakes. Thats why start very shallow and when you are sure that the cut is at its best then go deeper. Some air cooling definitely is a game changer
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

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  11. #9
    Rye's Avatar
    Lives in Sheffield, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 6 Days Ago Has been a member for 2-3 years. Has a total post count of 36. Received thanks 3 times, giving thanks to others 0 times.
    Hi mate,

    It's a Chinese 6040 with 1.5k spindle (seen on ebay). I realise the 4 flute isn't best option, but was itching to give the 4 flute a try on a practice piece while I wait for the new bits to arrive (most have arrived except for the ones I need).

    It cut reasonably well @ 16000 RPM with a FR of 550 - taking 1.8mm on each pass(except the last). Things did heat up though; had hot chips everywhere, but no clogging.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'll take note of your comment and sort another piece to practice on. And if I can afford a can of air, I'll use that too. If not I'll have to suck on a polo and blow on it :)
    Last edited by Rye; 01-11-2015 at 12:48 AM.

  12. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Rye View Post
    It cut reasonably well @ 16000 RPM with a FD of 550 - taking 1.8mm on each pass(except the last). Things did heat up though; had hot chips everywhere, but no clogging.


    I'll take note of your comment and sort another piece to practice on. And if I can afford a can of air, I'll use that too. If not I'll have to suck on a polo and blow on it :)
    Hot chips are good as they keep the tool cool.
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

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