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  1. #31
    Hi,

    I have the Sino SDS6-2V DRO so I cannot comment on the one you have, but on my DRO the 'Lathe Mode' is set up by interrupting the switch-on self check and after aload of 'enter' down arrow key presses, you can choose the machine type. Then, I believe the 1/2 button will work. It does for me ! I am only reading through the handbook.

    I would go and check it, but I am currently confined to barracks with a shoulder injury.

    R
    Last edited by cropwell; 13-11-2016 at 06:24 PM.

  2. #32
    On my QC Toolpost the knurled hieght adjustment knob is through tapped and has a grub screw in it, you adjust the hieght and turn the grub screw to lock it, it's not very elegant but it works.
    Regards
    Mijke

  3. #33
    Second question is about the QCTP. I've adjust the tool to the centre height of the work but every time the cam is operated the thumb wheel can easily turn, altering the height. Should it come with a locknut under the thumb wheel or I am using it wrong?

    I think you need to put a bolt down the centre of the knurled bit to lock it

    edit Mike beat me to it
    Last edited by Clive S; 13-11-2016 at 05:45 PM.
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  4. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by Clive S View Post
    I think you need to put a bolt down the centre of the knurled bit to lock it

    edit Mike beat me to it
    Thanks Clive / Mekanik - I was wondering what to do with those to cap head bolts that came with it ! Obvious now you pointed it out

    Thanks Cropwell - I've seen mention of the boot up menu in the destructions and was starting to wonder about that. Seems that is the next thing to try.
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  5. #35
    Good news - sorted the radius to diameter reading on the X axis!

    Thanks Rob, it was basically along the lines you suggested. Needed to press 'in/mm' when powering up. This takes into display configuration mode where you can use the <- -> arrows to choose lathe, mill etc. In my case D60-2L. It talks about pressing '1' but I didn't do this and it still offered me the config types. Might be that is to move between axes (X or Z) to specify which axis gets which configuration??
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Then press '.' to save and exit.
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    That seemed to be it so to check it out I put a dial indicator onthe cross slide, zeroed the DRO readout then moved 0.5 mm as indicated on the DTI. DRO display read 1.0 mm hence was reading diameter not radius.

    Also note the little |`/ symbol next to ABS meaning diameter:
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    Happy days.
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  6. Deleted question already answered.
    Last edited by Journeyman; 15-11-2016 at 11:35 AM.
    Real stupidity beats artificial intelligence every time - Terry Pratchett
    Journeyman's Workshop

  7. #37
    Well I've had this lathe for just over a year and couldn't be happier with it. DROs have been faultless and were well worth fitting.

    Only thing bothering me on the lathe is that the carriage has a very slow oil leak. After a year of ownership it stopped dripping about 2 months ago, and the oil sight glass showed it was empty. I bought some more oil at a recent show and have finally got around to trying to fix it.

    First problem was that access to the oil plug was quite tight - not enough space for a hex key. Thought about grinding one down, then decided to make a tool. I had a round aluminium bar with a hex shape on it (from another job) and machined a small hex on the top:

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    Then held the larger end with an adjustable spanner:
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    And into the oil grub screw:
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    Last bit of oil came out . . . .
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    Along with some free grit presumably from the casting . . .
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    Cleaned it up, put around 5 rounds of PTFE tape on and tightened it up.
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    Filled up with fresh oil and . . . . .
    . . . it still drips (slowly)!

    I might not get on this again until next week end but anyone else had this problem? More PTFE or am I missing something?
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  8. #38
    Neale's Avatar
    Lives in Plymouth, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 2 Hours Ago Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 1,726. Received thanks 295 times, giving thanks to others 11 times.
    I would normally expect to see a head with a machined seating which bears on a matching machined flat on the bottom of the carriage, plus fibre washer. Clearly here they seem to expect the threads to seal. If PTFE does not do the job, then it might be worth trying Loctite 55. I've had a lot of success with that on household plumbing - typically the screwed fittings that go into the bottom of radiators that also rely on the threads sealing. I've had first-time success with every one of those, where using PTFE has been less reliable. Might be my technique, but I'm sold on the stuff. Can't see that it says anywhere that it's good for oil - just potable water and LPG - but I would probably give it a go.

    Out of curiosity, what oil are you using?
    Last edited by Neale; 16-12-2017 at 11:41 PM.

  9. #39
    The oil is coming out where shafts run from inside to outside, not at the plug ;-)
    You think that's too expensive? You're not a Model Engineer are you? :D

  10. #40
    I was curious about this drain plug, I couldn't find it on the parts diagram, so I went and had a look at my 290 and it has not got one, but the shafts are oily as Nick suggested. I am not concerned, the sight glass is half way, and soon my shot glass will be full again

    Cheers,

    Rob

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