Thread: Mitre saw clamp

  1. #1
    The local(ish) Axminster was out of stock until December for mitre saw table clamps so I decided to make my own.

    I bought a 12mm machine leveling foot, then used a bit of rectangular stock for the body of the clamp, a bit of 12mm all thread for the rear post, and an 8mm knob to lock off the height.

    See video for machining the knob:

    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  2. #2
    Nice project.

    Definitely one for my list of things to make as the clamps provided with my saw were "less than desirable".

  3. #3
    I love little projects like this...another one to add to the list!
    Neil...

    Build log...here

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Washout View Post
    Nice project.

    Definitely one for my list of things to make as the clamps provided with my saw were "less than desirable".
    The ones that came with mine were nonexistent loll, I need to make two, at the moment I just C Clamp everything, pain in the ass at times!

    .Me
    .Me

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Roberts View Post
    The ones that came with mine were nonexistent loll, I need to make two, at the moment I just C Clamp everything, pain in the ass at times!

    .Me
    I started out to make two, and bought 2off machine feet but when I got home I looked at the outfeed (RH) side and the motor would get in the way. Some of the more expensive / fancy mitre saws have the motor tucked away at the back so you fit two similar clamps.

    I plan instead to use the hole at the front of the table on the outfeed side and buy a horizontal clamp, or make something similar.

    The clamp shonw here was just to get me going but I want to machine a flat on the threaded rod at the back to give the height adjuster knob something to grip on instead of the thread. I also want to machine away part of the underside of the rectangular block at the front to allow the foot to rise higher and give more clamping height range.

    To newbies out there this video makes it look slick and easy but despite having done CNC stuff for many years I still had problems! I had 2 false e-stops (due to interference on long home switch leads on Z, next upgrade on the list!) and on one of them when i did 'run from here' in Mach3 to recover I forgot to raise the spindle so it shot across the workpiece to the new location - luckily it just skimmed the top of the part and left a small groove (which you can see in the first still photo). I had planned to skim that surface anyway so no harm done in the end but it could have been a broken tool.
    The other problem I had was that I did a last minute change to the CAM toolpaths and forgot to put the tabs back in so on the last pass of the 'teeth' the workpiece rattled around and shot across the bed, taking a few gouges out of the nice profile. I managed to file these out, but I was annoyed at myself on that one, plus it was not exactly safe.
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by routercnc View Post
    I started out to make two, and bought 2off machine feet but when I got home I looked at the outfeed (RH) side and the motor would get in the way. Some of the more expensive / fancy mitre saws have the motor tucked away at the back so you fit two similar clamps.
    Yeah mine is the same, it's a Hitachi, it's really quite a nice machine, well made and reasonably light, I got it cheap at 70 on eBay, the guy had used it for his home renovations, skirting boards, architrave all the small bits, so it was in really good condition and only about 12 months old at the time, they go for 250 ish so I got a deal for sure I think.

    Here is a link to the same model: http://www.toolstop.co.uk/index.php?...t_id=7398&l=uk

    It's actually the 110v version so I've got it hooked up to a "tranny", being 110 it's that bit quieter in operation, less power obviously because of that but it dose everything I need to do, went through 4x4 post no problem at all.

    I hope to build permanent extensions for it once I get the workshop finished on the inside, that makes so much difference trying to cut long lengths accurately, I'm just using free standing roller type things at the moment but they tend to fall over.

    .Me
    Last edited by Lee Roberts; 03-11-2015 at 02:10 PM.
    .Me

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