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  1. #1
    Hi Guys

    First to remind you I'm an absolute novice .. .. .

    I've just taken delivery of a new 3040T .. .. from a company who bought for a project that didn't happen, so never used it.

    clearly hasn't been used .. .. steppers are all still in wrappers etc .. . however, being a suspicious old fart, I thought I'd give the control box a look over before plugging it in .. ..

    I've found an opto-coupler on the JP-382A controller board, marked ENO, which has one pin 'snipped' .. by snipped I mean it looks as though it has been deliberately cut through for some reason to break the contact.

    Since I don't know what ENO stands for I'm a bit nervous .. .. anybody got any experience please ?

    Thank you

    S

  2. #2
    Hi S

    Probably nothing to worry about if it looks purposefully cut but if your unsure and don't want to risk turning on then post a good picture of the area your looking at and we'll take a look.

  3. #3
    Hi Jazz

    Thanks for taking the trouble .. ..

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hopefully, that shows you what you need ... .. The pin is marked EDO, if that helps

    I'm not too keen on the idea of blowing it up before I've cut something !!

    Thanks again

    S

  4. #4
    Perhaps its the enable opto and there is a design fault on the board and they have cut it to isolate it.
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  5. #5
    Ok well I think your good to go because I've seen this board mentioned before on CNCzone and the Eno Opto is related to the 4th axis output of the controller.
    See this post. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/pcb-mi...-software.html

    He mentions it being cut on this board and he's traced it back to the 4th axis output connector.
    Last edited by JAZZCNC; 14-11-2015 at 12:11 AM.

  6. The Following User Says Thank You to JAZZCNC For This Useful Post:


  7. #6
    Great information, thanks very much .. ..

    I'll give it a go now .. :)

    Thanks Jazz

    S

  8. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Musicmanager View Post
    Great information, thanks very much .. ..

    I'll give it a go now .. :)

    Thanks Jazz

    S
    Your Welcome and hope it works ok.! . . But if not just take Solice in knowing that often with these controllers it's was only a matter of when not if it goes bang.
    Last edited by JAZZCNC; 14-11-2015 at 12:31 AM.

  9. #8
    Ah, right !
    So given the main purpose of this machine is to make PCB's for my electronics hobby, perhaps I should factor in a new controller box to my development plan !

    More good information, Thanks again .. .. .

    S

  10. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Musicmanager View Post
    Ah, right !
    So given the main purpose of this machine is to make PCB's for my electronics hobby, perhaps I should factor in a new controller box to my development plan !

    More good information, Thanks again .. .. .

    S
    Nah I was mostly joking but unfortunatly it's partly true. These Chinese machines are great provided you don't expect too much from them and push them hard.
    If pushed hard they quickly lose the plot and start giving trouble's. Troubles range from Mechanical to electrical thou without doubt the weakist area is electrical. Luckly it's easy fixed if required, it just costs more money.
    Mechanicly they are Ok-ish but again pushed too hard they quickly show why they are cheap.

    IMO they are great learning tools because while they still potentialy can hurt you they are far more forgiving and will just stall when crashed. (Notice I say WHEN not IF. . Lol)
    If used well within there capabiltys they are great tools to set you up for more powerful machine. You can also knock some nice stuff out with them it just takes longer. However this is where people go wrong because they try to work them like proper more Grown up CNC machine and that's what kills them.! . . They are really just toys. . . .Bit like Tonky toys, Strong toys but Still toys.!!

  11. #10
    Well, I don't intend to create a life size model of the Angel of the North :)

    I'm looking at milling PCB's, using an acrylic platen with a rectangular well cut out to hold the copper board still and provide a Gnd contact for Autoleveller or something similar .. .. boards will be 100 x 160mm max. with something like 1mm cut .. .. and if it takes a while .. .. I've got more patience than my doctor !

    If it develops a fault from time to time, particularly electronically, I'm probably capable of sorting it out .. .. I've found a wiring schematic for the boards in my box now, which provides a considerable amount of daylight !

    Given that this post is in open forum, if there is anybody 'listening' who mills PCB's and has any advice to offer, I'd be all ears and very grateful.

    Finally, if you're likening this machine to a Tonka Toy perhaps I should go buy some 'Yorkies' !!! :D

    Many thanks for your help and encouragement ..

    S

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