Thanks for the advice.. yes always active would be safer but I'm not 100% sure about the controller board I have and how easy it is to wire as such.. I believe it's similar to the earlier version shown here. Although mine is a v3.9 with extra jumpers.. I was just following on from the way the E-stop is wired from the factory.. but I can of course change this.
Perhaps for the limit switches I could use a relay instead and wire the switches in series.. Would this be a better route to go down? Or am I better off using a FET to switch rather than a mechanical relay?
I've not looked into the proximity home switches yet.. but the ones I have are 6V-30V so I was hoping to use them..
Original Reply Post deleted for the time being.
I will get out a spare BoB and proximity switch and wire them up on a breadboard. Some prox switches do output the supply voltage, but I think this is just due to open collector leakage, and should not source any real current to damage the BoB, but I will check it out properly this weekend and post results. I use LJ12A3-4-Z/BX switches with a 12v supply without any problem.
Last edited by cropwell; 27-02-2016 at 11:52 AM.It takes all sorts to make a world, I am just glad I am not one of them.
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