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  1. #11
    Thanks for the advice.. yes always active would be safer but I'm not 100% sure about the controller board I have and how easy it is to wire as such.. I believe it's similar to the earlier version shown here. Although mine is a v3.9 with extra jumpers.. I was just following on from the way the E-stop is wired from the factory.. but I can of course change this.

    http://i01.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/438/2...277438_868.jpg


    Perhaps for the limit switches I could use a relay instead and wire the switches in series.. Would this be a better route to go down? Or am I better off using a FET to switch rather than a mechanical relay?

    http://oi65.tinypic.com/ok5vg7.jpg


    I've not looked into the proximity home switches yet.. but the ones I have are 6V-30V so I was hoping to use them..

  2. #12
    Original Reply Post deleted for the time being.

    I will get out a spare BoB and proximity switch and wire them up on a breadboard. Some prox switches do output the supply voltage, but I think this is just due to open collector leakage, and should not source any real current to damage the BoB, but I will check it out properly this weekend and post results. I use LJ12A3-4-Z/BX switches with a 12v supply without any problem.

    Cheers,
    Rob
    Last edited by cropwell; 27-02-2016 at 12:52 PM.
    Albert Einstein may have been a genius, but his brother Frank, was a monster

    Sent from my clunky old Windows 7 Machine

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