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  1. #91
    Yes, spattery a bit more but if you can get it, its far cheaper than any pro mix and great for practising on. A little spatter on a job like this is not really that crucial i feel, I never had that much that it was a pain - its not like chalk and cheese.

    +1 on the wire feed, this must be set right first off, as you said, too low will give a weld but damn, things will get hot and can lead to a large heat affected zone and distortion etc which can easily be avoided.

    Current is pretty easy, if this is like 4mm box then any hobby welder in the 150-180A range will likely be on full-tilt, but getting the wire feed and motion speed right takes a little practice.

  2. #92
    I started using CO2 only and it seemed cheaper, but its not. Once you swallow the pill and rent big Argon mix bottle you will wonder why you have not done it on first place. Not to speak of that i need not clean additionally the job. And believe me, it took me all day only cleaning spatter, when i welded my machine.

    But to make things easier:
    -brush parts around with oil prior to welding. As i said i use olive oil. So the spatter will not stick to the oiled part.
    -dip the clean Mig gun every 10 min into the oil while welding. That will help keep it clean all day.
    project 1 , 2, ...

  3. #93
    Thanks guys. I am looking into buying in some aluminium plate now and saw that Smith Metals was recommended on here. As they are local, think it might be worth checking with them also. They have a few options for aluminium tooling plate on their website: http://www.smithmetal.com/aluminium-tooling-plate.htm
    What option would you guys recommend, would it be the the KASTAL or would any of them do the job?

  4. #94
    Hi guys, been a while as life seems to keep getting in the way!! Some progress so far:

    Had the frame and gantry welded up and cut back down over 3 times in attempt of getting it all lined up with minimal distortion, but finally got there in the end! (I hope)
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Aluminium also came in, so started work on the Z-Axis. Think I slipped a bit with the blue...:
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    Think its now finally time to start looking into the epoxy leveling on the X axis, only thing is getting it up to temperature (I think Dean mentioned 20C for 3 days at least). Other than waiting for the sun to come out (if ever), I think my only other choice is to stick it in the shed with an electric heater. What do you guys think?

  5. #95
    If i ever get to that stage i intend to use Raychem Winterguard
    http://www.traceheating-cables.co.uk/wintergard.html
    I have it installed on my water pipes(Caravan) and it produces a uniform heating of the covered pipe ect, same principle as weld preheating but a lot lower temperature. No idea of the cost but i have some left over from doing the caravan plumbing.
    Regards
    Mike

  6. #96
    Think its now finally time to start looking into the epoxy leveling on the X axis, only thing is getting it up to temperature (I think Dean mentioned 20C for 3 days at least). Other than waiting for the sun to come out (if ever), I think my only other choice is to stick it in the shed with an electric heater. What do you guys think?
    I think you will be OK at 18C but it will take longer for the cure. In any case leave it to cure for at least 7 Days.

    When you pour it make a test strip as well say 150mm x 40mm x5mm then after about 4 days check the test strip to see if it will bend or snap. If it snaps ie. very brittle then it is cured.

    In the link is a temperature chart.


    http://www.westsystem.com/ss/cold-temperature-bonding/
    ..Clive

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to Clive S For This Useful Post:


  8. #97
    Hi all, this ones been on and off the back-burner too many times now but some progress had been made! Thanks again to Dean and Clive for helping me out with many things including the epoxy leveling and rail binding issues

    So far, managed to do the leveling using West System Extra Slow cure epoxy:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Got the aluminium cut:
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    Z Axis assembled:
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    and some of the mechanical assembly done:
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    Still got the X Axis ball-screws to sort out, some shimming to do on the Y-Axis screw and paint the frame. Will Hammerite be ok for painting the frame?

    In the mean time, I guess its time to start looking into that witchcraft they call 'electrics'

  9. #98
    Nice to see it coming together keep up the good work. Let us know what you intend to buy before actually parting with hard earned dosh re the electrics. Don't forget to make adjustments in the motor mounts etc.
    ..Clive

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to Clive S For This Useful Post:


  11. Quote Originally Posted by examorph View Post
    Hi all, this ones been on and off the back-burner too many times now but some progress had been made! Thanks again to Dean and Clive for helping me out with many things including the epoxy leveling and rail binding issues

    So far, managed to do the leveling using West System Extra Slow cure epoxy:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Got the aluminium cut:
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    Z Axis assembled:
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    and some of the mechanical assembly done:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Still got the X Axis ball-screws to sort out, some shimming to do on the Y-Axis screw and paint the frame. Will Hammerite be ok for painting the frame?

    In the mean time, I guess its time to start looking into that witchcraft they call 'electrics'
    Looking good! I used Hammerite on mine - worked well.

  12. #100
    Thanks Joe, did you just do the single coat or did you have to go over it a few times?

    Also, thank you for all the info in your build log, it has been a great help for both me and I bet many other members on this forum! I look forward to seeing your electronics come together as I am planning on a very similar setup and your schematics have already answered many of my questions! Did you use AutoCAD for these?

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