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  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by examorph View Post
    Thanks for explaining this to me Clive. Reason for LinuxCNC was really just because it was free, but after looking at the boards it may end up being cheaper and easier just buying a Mach 3 License and one of these boards.

    I updated the design slightly to raise the Y Axis ball screw by sitting it on some box section, similar to the X Axis (not sure if it would be stiffer buying wider box section and turning it 90 degrees or maybe also taller and having it sit at the base of the 'L' ?). Another reason for doing this was that I found on kincreaky's build log that Chai could supply these so I added them to all 3 axis and will get them with the rails/screws as it will save shipping.

    Attachment 17152Attachment 17153Attachment 17154

    This also gives me enough space to go with a belt to drive the gantry screw which might be better?
    I remember reading somewhere that 25mm end machining is recommended when using pulleys, will this be enough in my case or do I need more?

    Not that it matters too much, but you have the rail carriage flipped upside down from, on the left hand side as seen in the second photo

  2. #12
    [QUOTE=examorph;75595]I was planning on welding it direct to the gantry box section as its all going to be out of steel, would this be ok?

    Sorry, missed that it was a steel gantry. Then end-on as originally drawn in post#7 would be slightly stiffer. Go easy on the welding to minimise the gantry warping.
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  3. #13
    CannonGuy - Thanks for spotting the upside down rails on the one side, it was me being lazy and mirroring everything along the mid plane!! Will probably leave it as a mirror as the feature tree on the SW assembly is already starting to get crowded.

    routercnc - Thanks for confirming. I read on a few build logs that people have been keeping the temp below 60C to reduce warping, so will probably stick to this. I have a stick welder but can get a mig arranged if you guys recommend it?

    Speaking of welding, do you guys recommend the epoxy leveling route on the x axis for a build this size? With the Y and Z axis do you normally not do this?

  4. #14
    In principle epoxy levelling is worth-while on both the X (longest) and Y (across gantry) axes otherwise you are only getting some of the advantages.

    In your case the Y axis will be difficult unless perhaps you epoxy the top rail, then when dry and the rail is fixed turn it upside down and use a DTI to dial in the other rail whilst it has a fast setting compound under it? I've not used them myself but I think Dean has talked about some kind of putty instead of shimming?

    For the Z axis epoxy is not required as you would ideally use Aluminium EcoCast plate which should be pretty flat to start with. Alternatively you can use standard aluminium plate and skim it flat on a milling machine as the part is quite small.

    With the welding MIG is nicer to use, but should be OK with stick/ARC for what you are doing.
    Building a CNC machine to make a better one since 2010 . . .
    MK1 (1st photo), MK2, MK3, MK4

  5. #15
    I see a few things I'd look at. (I realise now why it looks strange.? You have drawn box section with square edges and normally they are radiused which makes the tubes look larger.1)

    Gantry mounting is weak point. No end support will let it resonate with only lower bolts supporting the upper rectangle. You are using only fraction of the plate to sit it on and with only 4 bolts inline. You would be better extending gantry width to cover the whole bearing plate width and have square 4 bolt pattern.

    Has I mentioned in reply to your PM I'd look at ways to protect the ballscrews from debris. The screws are a little high and funerable. I'd be looking to add gantry sides which drop down the sides to allow screws to be lower and drop on the inside of the screw so covers can be added without interference from bearing plates. The gantry side also strengthens the gantry.

    Regards welding then you have a lot of tubes all intersecting at the same points which means a lot of heat will be generated there. Idealy you should try to offset any tubes so the don't all meet at the same points. This will reduce warping and stress.
    You also have tubes you don't need the Centre vertical ones for instance. The diagonal ones are enough and it's less welding, less heat and distortion. (see pic)

    Mig welder is far better than Arc when comes to heat so if you have access to one I'd use it.

    I'd also extend the Top rail 100mm past the end this will allow spindle to pass end giving more flexabilty to machine.

    Regards PMDX then you want 126 BOB not 122 it's far better. If you go with Belts then buy Cslabs IP-M.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by JAZZCNC; 09-01-2016 at 02:47 PM.

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  7. #16
    routercnc - Thanks, will go down the epoxy route on the X and EcoCast plate on the Z.

    JAZZCNC - Thanks for spending the time making the changes to the model to show me, this is much appreciated!
    Any chance you could send me the SW files for this please or let me know what size rad it is and I will draw it up? Also, just to confirm as I haven't done much machining so not sure, what flexibility does the spindle overhanging extra 100mm give you? Is it normal to machine stuff which sits off the end of the table?
    I will get a Mig welder arranged as suggested and also have a play about with the gantry sides and see if I can setup what you've recommended, should have some images up for comment soon.
    Last edited by examorph; 09-01-2016 at 10:19 PM.

  8. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by examorph View Post
    JAZZCNC - Thanks for spending the time making the changes to the model to show me, this is much appreciated!
    Any chance you could send me the SW files for this please or let me know what size rad it is and I will draw it up?
    I liked the Bloody Hell version better. . .Lol

    The changes to the model took 5mins. You need to learn how to use Weldments and structural members then frame design is simple, quick and accurate.
    I'll send the model back to you with a few more changes and suggestions based on what you've drawn already. I haven't changed what you did at all just added a new configuration with my frame etc so you can flick back n forth and see the diffference.

    You'll also see how I made the frame.!!

    The extra 100mm doesn't affect the machine stiffness but does make it more versatile. Ie cutting dove tails on draw ends, cutting locks or hindges into doors. Machining over height parts that won't fit under gantry or using extra long reach tools. It also allows an easy way for a 4th axis without affecting the cutting area or having to fit or remove everytime use machine.

  9. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by JAZZCNC View Post
    I liked the Bloody Hell version better. . .Lol
    Haha, well in that case then, Bloody Hell Dean! Cheers for all the help!
    Got a habit of going back over emails and making them more formal at work, think I carried that through here too

    Looking forward to seeing how you done the models and checking out Weldments and structural members on youtube now.

  10. #19
    I made a few changes to the gantry sides as suggested:
    Attachment 17174Attachment 17173Attachment 17175Attachment 17176Attachment 17177
    Side plate is 10mm thick steel welded to gantry box section. Clearance between the frame and gantry sides is 10mm, so need to be sure that bolts which go into the ball nut bracket are only M5 so that the head doesn't stick out too far.

    Images of X Axis carriage support plate also attached, thought it might be easier for access if I followed other designs on this forum and had bolts running into the side. If you think the 4 bolt square pattern on top face would be better, I could probably cut a slot in the gantry base 'L' to get access to them and have it that way instead?
    If holes seem to close on the support plate, would it be worth going with the smaller width type carriages (without the flange) on the X also?

    One thing I haven't really thought out yet for the frame is the bed. Will look back through some build logs and see how others have been doing it and get something up for comment soon.
    Last edited by examorph; 16-10-2017 at 01:48 PM.

  11. #20
    Some things I am struggling with and hope you guys can help me with please:
    1. Does using wider/flange type carriages on the X Axis have any benefit over the smaller width type carriages or am I OK going with the smaller ones?
    2. Are there any cost effective ways of setting up a decent bed? I am seeing tool steel and aluminium beds on other build logs which I read can be >300

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