No problem with tapping and screwing 3mm, just have to be careful and drill holes using a guide so they are true 90degree square to profile..Clive
Yep, I would not tap past 3 or 4mm into a 3mm beam, just not enough thread engagement.
Thanks guys, to confirm, it's just the green bits in the last post its being used for (2x bed supports and some braces).
Only place it needs to be tapped is on the bed supports, so that I can bolt down the ply wood bed onto there. Any options for this with the 3mm box section? Maybe drill through and use a nut/bolt setup?
If the bolts are near the ends of the tubes, get in there first and weld in a reinforcement plate - a lump of 6mm etc welded in from the end would work.
If not then there are very few options really, you could drill a larger hole opposite the bolts so you can pass a socket and nut through to the front but that will only give you strength of the front 3mm section on the bolt, i doubt the hole will make any difference to the beam strength.
And how about using inserts? Then you dont have to worry about wall thickness.
Išsiųsta naudojantis SM-G900F Tapatalk 4 Lt
Or do what EddyCurrent did and glue in a strip of 6mm flat and drill and tap that...Neil...
Thanks for the advice guys, I ended up changing the arrangement slightly by only making the rear bed support from 3mm box, all other 4 (including front) are 4mm. So there should be enough box section to bolt the bed onto and will leave the back 3mm section as a support.
Spent half the day cutting/grinding more of the box section and the rest of the day, failing at welding Some horror shows for you below:
1st weld on frame:
thinking of cutting this off and starting again. It was over two runs, had let it cool down after doing a bit
Few more welds after this:
Ended up grinding it down and squaring it up many times before I got anything close to square. Ended up with the below, plan is to do both sides and then join them with the sections in between.
Was jumping from one side of the frame to the other when welding and did not go back to weld the opposite face until I could touch it again, hopefully this is ok.
Settings for the mig were 2 Volts and 3 for the speed.
Before I continue welding/assembling tomorrow, could you guys please help me with a few questions:
- Is it OK to go back over welds to fill in the gaps, if any?
- Any recommendations on getting into the tighter angles for welding?
- I ended up running 100mm constant welds down the side of the 100x50 box section, should I be splitting this into two runs. 50mm at a time and wait for cooling before going again?
- From the images shown, does the amount of "overlap" on each side of the weld look like its enough? I was worrying as I only really concentrated on filling the gap and wasnt sure if I needed to drag the weld over each face enough to properly join the two sections.
Last edited by examorph; 05-03-2016 at 10:28 PM.
BUILD LOG: New Build, Aluminium Frame Router/MillBy Davek0974 in forum DIY Router Build LogsReplies: 101Last Post: 31-08-2016, 05:28 PM
BUILD LOG: First Build 5 x 12 Steel Frame CNC routerBy Scott Damman in forum DIY Router Build LogsReplies: 61Last Post: 29-07-2016, 04:35 PM
BUILD LOG: Steel frame cnc router design/buildBy CraftyGeek in forum DIY Router Build LogsReplies: 110Last Post: 06-05-2015, 10:00 PM
BUILD LOG: First steel diy CNC router buildBy ivars211 in forum DIY Router Build LogsReplies: 59Last Post: 28-07-2014, 08:29 PM
BUILD LOG: 7' X 4' Steel frame buildBy Ricardoco in forum DIY Router Build LogsReplies: 6Last Post: 28-10-2012, 06:02 PM