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  1. #1
    It seems there is a language problem here I must try Google translate.
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  2. #2
    Wal's Avatar
    Lives in Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 31-03-2024 Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 491. Received thanks 71 times, giving thanks to others 29 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by Clive S View Post
    It seems there is a language problem here I must try Google translate.
    Hehe.

    Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    More progress - this time the fingerboard (cue foreign guitar geek dialects again ;) )


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  5. #4
    Nice vid as always and good to show mistakes warts and all. I noticed that you are going to finally put homing switches on using mechanical switches if you mount them as you indicated it will only be a matter of time before you crush them.

    It is better to mount them so that the gantry or whatever can ride over them it is easier to use proxy switches mounted at right angles to the direction of travel so that the target runs over the top of the switch.
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  6. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Clive S View Post
    Nice vid as always and good to show mistakes warts and all. I noticed that you are going to finally put homing switches on using mechanical switches if you mount them as you indicated it will only be a matter of time before you crush them.

    It is better to mount them so that the gantry or whatever can ride over them it is easier to use proxy switches mounted at right angles to the direction of travel so that the target runs over the top of the switch.
    Thanks Clive and points taken - I'll have to have a think about how to position the switches, but I think I have a few options.

    I've also been considering freeing up some workshop space by "vertically" mounting the machine recently to make room for other machinery.

  7. #6
    Chris, I agree with Clive (though I'm not sure I'm in a good position to comment as I've not got all my limits mounted yet and those that are aren't wired in.......) proxy's are the way to go and they're no harder to wire than mechanical switches.

    Go vertical, nothing to be lost and everything to be gained!!!!! Mine is going vertical (well 85°) when I get the time at work to cut up and weld the frame (the steel is sitting rusting away out in the yard.....) and I can't wait as bending over the sides is a PITA

    P.S. if you want some Proxy's then I've some you can have.
    Last edited by njhussey; 01-02-2016 at 03:07 PM.
    Neil...

    Build log...here

  8. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by njhussey View Post
    Chris, I agree with Clive (though I'm not sure I'm in a good position to comment as I've not got all my limits mounted yet and those that are aren't wired in.......) proxy's are the way to go and they're no harder to wire than mechanical switches.

    Go vertical, nothing to be lost and everything to be gained!!!!! Mine is going vertical (well 85°) when I get the time at work to cut up and weld the frame (the steel is sitting rusting away out in the yard.....) and I can't wait as bending over the sides is a PITA

    P.S. if you want some Proxy's then I've some you can have.
    Thanks Neil, that's good news - I've always struggled with things like Hall Sensors etc. in the past - I take it they don't need an OpAmp or anything to work?

    Thanks for the offer if you have some spare - I'll PM.

  9. #8
    Superb thread.

    I was expecting you to cut another slot in the baseboard to mimic the truss rod slot and use that as a register to machine the reverse of the neck. But then noticed your register pins...
    You had some roughness problems which to me were to do with cutter rotation and timber grain directions. Might get over that by changing the cutter travel direction in local areas to avoid the grain lifting?

    Soon have strings on!

  10. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by fwm891 View Post
    Superb thread.

    I was expecting you to cut another slot in the baseboard to mimic the truss rod slot and use that as a register to machine the reverse of the neck. But then noticed your register pins...
    You had some roughness problems which to me were to do with cutter rotation and timber grain directions. Might get over that by changing the cutter travel direction in local areas to avoid the grain lifting?

    Soon have strings on!
    Hi fwm891

    Thanks and the idea of using the truss rod slot as an indexing fixture is interested and less fiddly than pins. If I was looking to produce these in any quantity I think that would be a good way to go.
    Agree on the direction thing - its always a bit of a lottery when cutting wood and using tool paths that might not mix in certain portions of its travel. I get asked for feedback by Autodesk on occasion for Fusion 360 and being able to specify "wood" as a material and a grain direction that the tool path can then take account of might be a good feature for them, to implement in software as a checkbox.

    BTW - I made the CAD available for the Telecaster on one of the videos if you want to do one yourself, or PM me your email address and I'll add you directly to the Fusion 360 project.

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