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  1. #1
    just wanted to know if its expensive to get 3000mm steel beams machined to a flat surface or would i just be better of using epoxy resin? also before i go ahead and do it i was thinking about filling my steel frame with sand to help with resonance, is this still something people do or will i be wasting my time?

    cheers

    Ash

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by reefy86 View Post
    just wanted to know if its expensive to get 3000mm steel beams machined to a flat surface or would i just be better of using epoxy resin? also before i go ahead and do it i was thinking about filling my steel frame with sand to help with resonance, is this still something people do or will i be wasting my time?

    cheers

    Ash
    It would be expensive to get the beams machined flat and even so, they will be distorted from flat if welded or even bolted (unless very careful). I would certainly go for epoxy over that length.

    With regards to the sand, I left holes in my frame so that I could fill it with sand. Never got round to trying it though.
    Old router build log here. New router build log here. Lathe build log here.
    Electric motorbike project here.

  3. #3
    thanks jonathan, what i was going to do is make a long enough rod with a 95mm x 95mm plate at the end so it fits in nice on my 100mm box sections and when pouring sand inside i just wack the plate so compacting the sand as tight as possible and then just bolt some plates at the end so no sand can escape. i think this idea would be a much better result then just pouring sand in do you think.

    cheers

    Ash

  4. #4
    Hi Reefy
    Best bet would be vibration, you could use a palm sander or something similar.
    Jazz recommends sand for vibration reduction with the bonus that it can be removed if you need to move the machine @ some later date. sand will need to be dry (obviously)
    Regards
    Mike

  5. #5
    thanks mike. as long as the epoxy self levels does it matter about how level your bed is on the floor? obviously getting the bed as level as possible in the first place is important but say i level it as good as what a standard precision spirit level can do, do i not need to worry about getting it perfectly level and just allow the epoxy resin to do the rest?

    cheers

    Ash

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by reefy86 View Post
    thanks mike. as long as the epoxy self levels does it matter about how level your bed is on the floor? obviously getting the bed as level as possible in the first place is important but say i level it as good as what a standard precision spirit level can do, do i not need to worry about getting it perfectly level and just allow the epoxy resin to do the rest?

    cheers

    Ash
    For the epoxy you will need the West System 105/109 In other words the very slow hardener.

    For the sand if you want to use it. Is the dried silica sand that they use between block paving from any builders merchants. It will flow like an egg timer.
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  7. #7
    thanks chris straight to the point :) will add this to my order list

  8. #8
    Hi Ash
    If you have a search of the forum there is at least one post that goes into some detail regarding the epoxy leveling method, giving good advise on trying to reduce inconsistencies in the level.
    Mike
    Last edited by mekanik; 01-02-2016 at 01:33 PM.

  9. #9
    If you make a proper strong worktop there will be no need for sand.
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski View Post
    If you make a proper strong worktop there will be no need for sand.
    Sand has nothing to do with Strength it's to dampen resonance and no amount of sensible gusseting or bracing will beat sand at dampening resonance in steel tubes.

    Is it required for large machine mostly cutting wood is Better question.? . . . .No is the answer IMO.

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