yeah...I think I got that one covered....
Distance between centres : 350mm
Swing Over Bed: 180mm
Swing Over Cross Slide: 110mm
Tailstock Taper: MT2
Chuck diameter: 80mm
Spindle Speed: 50 - 2500rpm
Spindle Bore: 20mm
Cross slide Travel: 65mm
Chuck diameter 100mm (Integral spindle plate is 100mm no adapter plate required)
Range of Metric Threads: 0.5 - 2.5mm.
Range of Imperial Threads: 12 - 52 TPI.
Spindle Accuracy: 0.01mm.
Size with packaging is L: 81cm W: 30.5cm H: 31.5cm
Operating instructions enclosed.
American circuit board
230v 50Hz motor
Actual dimensions of lathe - 29in.x 10in.x 9½ in.
Net weight/Gross weight : 42/45Kg.
I'll dismantle it to take it up into the loft!
Having spent too long researching these over the past few days, I'd learnt that an independent 4 jaw was going to be the most useful, therefore I'll probably take the package & just flog the 3 jaw chuck on (most comments I've read suggest that you never go back to a 3 jaw after using an independent 4 jaw!).
I genuinely don't know what size tooling it uses yet (I'm hopefully going to see these at his premises tomorrow)
Here's my initial shoppinng list...
the lathe ith independent 4 jaw chuck.
A cutting set! (was just going to go HSS as I have a grinder and read that it's easy to maintain these youirself)
nice to haves...
Quick change toolpost.
proper boring rod.
What a splendid idea....do these soft jaws cost much? (cos it may be cheaper just to buy a 4 jaw independent chuck!
Perhaps I need to hold fire on this as there's stuff popping up that I'd never considered (& it's stuff that'll save me outlay!)
Soft jaws should only be about £20-£30 a set depending on the chuck manufacturer.
They do have more uses than just boring out the inside diameter to prevent runout, you can also bore out the face's with a shoulder for holding larger dia items. Say you had a 100mm dia circular bearing holder with a finish width of 20mm then you could bore the jaws at 100mm dia down to a depth of say 15mm, cut the 100 mm dia material a couple of mm's oversize in a saw and then when you put it in the chuck and tap it up to the shoulder it will run true and will be easy to get the width parallel.
Also if you bore them to the size of the part you are machining then it helps prevent marking of the workpiece that hard jaws can sometimes leave, specially on soft material like aluminum.
I'll let you know later!
You'll get a flavour for why I need a lathe from this set of photos, I've just completed this -
(those lines are on the lower surface - top is nice & smooth. That centre circle looks a little odd as I haven't come all the way through to the top surface with it . - also those little holes are meant to be different - there are two sizes of DIY pickups I need to mount, both of which have different pole spacings)
The cheapest/quickest traversing pickup winder I can dream up....
"What I learnt today" - biggish circular stuff is painful to do on a mill and doesn't look so neat after either!
(& I dare say not that 'true' either!)
Last edited by HankMcSpank; 09-07-2009 at 02:00 PM.
No I didn't use a finishing pass...1. becuase I've never used them (!) & 2. I've not bothered to work out how finishing passes would slot into my workflow!
This was just to get a cheap & dirty coil winder wheel in situ PDQ.
Couldn't get over there today (it's further than I thought & this is London!).
Called the seller - it seems it does take 10mm tools ....Kip I'll PM you!
If you go the 4 jaw independent route, consider getting a larger chuck than standard. Standard is 75mm.
100mm and 125mm are both options. 125mm uses up a fair bit of bed length, but i've found myself boring holes in sheet that I wouldn't have been able to hold in a 100mm chuck. Also the large spinning mass has smoothed some of my cuts out (not to mention making the lathe significantly more DEADLY :twisted:)
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