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  1. #21
    Yes, the new aluminium sheet I'm going to cut, I'm planning on lining up some of the holes perfectly with the T-slots to screw into.. I was trying to avoid just screwing straight into the spoilboard with wood screws as I thought it would quickly get spoiled.. but I've since cut a 200mm pocket 1.5mm deep into it (set the bed for Z0 rather than the Z-1.5mm I wanted) and now dowsed it with lubricant.. so I think that plan is out the window.

    I did find this interesting though.. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cn...4-mdf-oil.html
    So maybe I'll swap out the Draper lubricant I have for a can of WD40.. and just hope for the best.
    Last edited by d4cnc; 07-04-2016 at 08:42 PM.

  2. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by d4cnc View Post
    I need to come up with a solution for not destroying the MDF board with lubrication..
    I always seal MDF with a couple of coats of Rustins MDF sealer a little oil or WD40 not a problem and great preparation if you want to paint or varnish.

  3. #23
    I have a lot of Rustins MDF sealer here actually.. I was just a little worried about applying it and the MDF swelling.. then needing to resurface it and undoing the work of the sealer by taking off the top layer.. I guess if I apply a few coats, it'll seep in a lot and then when I resurface it, I'll still have a good layer of protection. It's probably worth it for the T-slots alone anyway.

  4. #24
    I find little swelling if any when dry if any maybe the edges which I always soak well, even then when dry I cannot see your bed needing more than a tickle to re true, it should certainly be less than wd40 or water.

  5. #25
    but I've since cut a 200mm pocket 1.5mm deep into it (set the bed for Z0 rather than the Z-1.5mm I wanted)
    You could make the pocket a little deeper and wider and then make a plug to go in it and glue it in position and re skim the bed.
    ..Clive
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

  6. #26
    If I wanted to use a 2mm cutter or even a 1mm cutter (obviously after a lot more practice as I'm sure I'd break them just by looking at them at this stage), how would that affect things? Presumably, the smaller the bit, the slower the feed.. and higher the spindle speed? It would be nice to get some tighter inside radiuses. (radii?)


    Quote Originally Posted by Clive S View Post
    You could make the pocket a little deeper and wider and then make a plug to go in it and glue it in position and re skim the bed.
    Awesome idea! Thanks for the tip!
    Last edited by d4cnc; 07-04-2016 at 11:23 PM.

  7. #27
    Possibly try
    2mm, 1.5mm DOC, slotting, single flute, 24,000rpm, 120mm/min
    1mm, 0.5mm DOC, slotting, single flute, 24,000rpm, 54mm/min

    I have not gone that low yet though;)

  8. #28
    Many thanks again. I've not been brave enough yet to try the 2mm cuts but will do later.. (I want some 2.2mm holes)


    When it comes to work holding the sheet of aluminium and taping it down with carpet tape, what does everyone do with the protective backing?
    Does that become the top as you cut through it? While the otherside is stuck down?
    Or do you stick the carpet tape to the protective backing side ?
    Or do you remove the protective backing altogther?

  9. #29
    I always remove the film on both sides, the top layer gets in the way of the coolant/air i've found.

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to Davek0974 For This Useful Post:


  11. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by d4cnc View Post
    When it comes to work holding the sheet of aluminium and taping it down with carpet tape, what does everyone do with the protective backing?
    On the lower side I leave film on if in good condition as it makes getting the tape off easier. On top surface then I tend to take it.

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