1. #1
    Where to buy from 1/2" shank or ER25 led sound probe? With ball at the point,steel ball and body, and that does not cost arm and leg?

    i see a lot of cheap ones but 20mm shank. Any idea some one? i searched a lot but could not find something under 100. At the same time the 20mm ones are darn cheap

    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  2. #2
    Smallest I have seen was a 16mm on aliexpress, doesn't er25 go to a 15/16mm collet seen a few sets that included 16mm. I think ER20 1-13 and ER25 1-16mm
    http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-...6-2c7884a1942b
    Last edited by lucan07; 22-04-2016 at 10:24 PM.

  3. #3

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  5. #4

  6. #5
    I have 2 of the 20mm shank ones. Not worth the effort... they are hardly any better than a trusty edgefinder. My issue with them is that they are so long that they run out all the time. The only way they make sense is if you have ISO40 ISO50 size taper tooling and you get then set up correctly.

    The only other one I have seen was an american made one with an LED inside it. 10-12mm shank exactly like the link to Teng above
    Last edited by komatias; 23-04-2016 at 12:07 AM.
    https://emvioeng.com
    Machine tools and 3D printing supplies. Expanding constantly.

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  8. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by lucan07 View Post
    Smallest I have seen was a 16mm on aliexpress, doesn't er25 go to a 15/16mm collet seen a few sets that included 16mm. I think ER20 1-13 and ER25 1-16mm
    http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-...6-2c7884a1942b

    yes, sorry, ER20 collet. so 1/2 max

    Quote Originally Posted by magicniner View Post

    That one is ok but no ball. If mistakenly turn hanle to the other side could be damaged. But seems no other choice for now. Anyway, it's for my small mill, which i use for drilling. So i need it to find faster the edges



    Quote Originally Posted by komatias View Post
    I have 2 of the 20mm shank ones. Not worth the effort... they are hardly any better than a trusty edgefinder. My issue with them is that they are so long that they run out all the time. The only way they make sense is if you have ISO40 ISO50 size taper tooling and you get then set up correctly.

    The only other one I have seen was an american made one with an LED inside it. 10-12mm shank exactly like the link to Teng above
    I have seen that one, the american, with the ball, but is expensive.

    I was wondering the same thing though, if a Starrett edge finder would be better and more reliable. But as i said, on the CNC i have the MachStdMill screen set which is much better than any edge finder
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  9. #7
    How about this?
    I bought the UK one above and made a push-fit ball adapter.
    I used 01 Tool Steel for the sleeve, a 6mm Stainless Ball Bearing for the ball, a bit of spring wire I had laying around for the spring and spring retaining pin.
    The spring is soldered to the bearing, I used a big old fashioned flame heated 1lb copper soldering iron and Killed Spirits for flux. Cleaning the excess solder off with a file doesn't touch the bearing and a quick polish on a coarse wheel cleans off any residual surface solder.
    I've made the spring a little strong but it will do for now and the main bit is that it works rather well and I'm not scared of hitting the work with it ;-)

    - Nick
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  10. #8
    Now thats what we are talking about! Great idea!
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  11. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by magicniner View Post
    How about this?
    I bought the UK one above and made a push-fit ball adapter.
    I used 01 Tool Steel for the sleeve, a 6mm Stainless Ball Bearing for the ball, a bit of spring wire I had laying around for the spring and spring retaining pin.
    The spring is soldered to the bearing, I used a big old fashioned flame heated 1lb copper soldering iron and Killed Spirits for flux. Cleaning the excess solder off with a file doesn't touch the bearing and a quick polish on a coarse wheel cleans off any residual surface solder.
    I've made the spring a little strong but it will do for now and the main bit is that it works rather well and I'm not scared of hitting the work with it ;-)

    - Nick
    Sorry for being dumb...but what's the benefits of having the ball on the end?

    .Me
    .Me

  12. #10
    The cheap ones are solid and don't have much flexibility at the tip so for me the advantage is that when I've snuck it up on the work edge until the light just comes on and then set the DRO appropriately in Mach3 the ball just moves over on it's spring when some klutz hits the wrong button and tries to plough it through the work, then the ball simply pops back when I correct my error.
    Don't put your tongue on the end BTW, there's 2 12v batteries in series inside mine! ;-)

    - Nick
    You think that's too expensive? You're not a Model Engineer are you? :D

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