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  1. #31
    May be possible to use an old calor bottle for a tank to solve flow issues.

  2. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by Neale View Post
    I would not have expected it to have the air flow needed
    Nozzle size is critical, with low flow but a small nozzle you can generate a high pressure & speed at the nozzle and surrounding air will be drawn in and add to the mass of air shifting chips.
    I experimented with a variety of ideas, you can grease a length of piano wire and use a 3-jaw lathe chuck to crimp copper pipe down to a nozzle of known size, eBay is a good source of canula needles which are also good,

    - Nick
    If you will not be swayed by logic or experience simply pick the idea you
    like best, but ask yourself why you sought advice in the first place and,
    for a simple life, perhaps consider not doing so in future

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by lucan07 View Post
    May be possible to use an old calor bottle for a tank to solve flow issues.
    You need a pump specified to deliver at least the required flow unless you can live with a Duty Cycle and the associated rest periods, this is Compressor Specification 101 in workshops using air ;-)

    - Nick
    If you will not be swayed by logic or experience simply pick the idea you
    like best, but ask yourself why you sought advice in the first place and,
    for a simple life, perhaps consider not doing so in future

  4. #34
    Mine is 100ltr, dual compressor motors, 10bar, noisy as fuck, purchased on ebay, works perfect :-)

    cheers,
    billy

  5. #35
    AndyGuid's Avatar
    Lives in Berwick, Melbourne, Australia. Last Activity: 39 Minutes Ago Has been a member for 3-4 years. Has a total post count of 70. Received thanks 8 times, giving thanks to others 105 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by Neale View Post
    Done a bit of workshop clearing recently and now might have space for a small compressor. This would be mainly for dust clearing on router, maybe for mist coolant as well, both for router and vertical mill. I've never had a compressor, and have no idea what might be a suitable size/rating, or what I might do with it if I had one beyond purposes mentioned. Are compressors generally too noisy to have in the workshop itself?
    I've always liked the idea of having at hand a brad-nailer to at least assist in holding things together during woodwork assembly, and it seems that the only affordable brad-nailers are by nature air-driven.

    Now ALDI down under are selling an Air Compressor for AU$149 which looks to me to be identical to this one going for AU$229:
    https://www.bunnings.com.au/full-boa...essor_p6290392 which includes specs:

    Free Air Delivery: 120 l/min (4.2 cfm)
    Max. Air Delivery: 180 l/min (6.4 cfm)
    Max. Working Pressure: 10 bar (145 psi)
    Tank Volume: 50L
    Sound Power Level: 94dB

    Thanks to this thread I'm now feeling almost able to justify some purchases to myself :-) in importance:

    1. Brad-nailer AU$118 - https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-ai...apler_p6210571
    • 32-64 mm C-Series Brads 16-Gauge
    • 15-50 mm C1-Series Brads 18-Gauge
    • 16-40 mm 6000-Series Staples

    2. Blow gun(s) for dusting and clearing chips

    3. Inflating things

    And possibly at a later stage:

    4. Portable SANDBLASTER at AU$59 - https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-23...aster_p6290557

    5. Air DIE-GRINDER at AU$34 - https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-ai...inder_p6210617

    Some research has indoctrinated me to now think that one big advantage to air-driven die-grinders is that the air motor has no momentum, so when you release the trigger it stops. And on delicate or critical things that air-driven may be better than electric as the tool vibrates less and chatters less in the hole than electric does. And whereas electric motors generate heat, air motors run cool and tend to be small and easy to handle so could suit blending welds on ornamental projects or light de-burring?

    Here's hoping I'm not on the wrong track and somebody has had decent service out of an ALDI Air Compressor!?
    Last edited by AndyGuid; 1 Week Ago at 10:54 PM. Reason: Correct C-Series Brads to show 16-Gauge

  6. #36
    The pneumatic tools are better when quality. If cheap, they are worse that the electric ones. You should look for tools that do Not need to be oiled daily. They are the good ones. You will need to fashion also air drier after the compressor.

    Nailers do not have a demand for a quality compressor. Not so with rotating tools. I would say 150L is a minimum for such tools.

    The game changer tool, that could be used with a compressor is an orbital sander. But a proper one, not the cheap crap. I have the most expensive model of Chicago Pneumatic/very expensive/ and Oh boy... It changed the way i am finishing wood. Its an incredible tool.
    project 1 , 2, Dust Shoe ...

  7. #37
    The integral unit compressors are noisy ! If you need quietness you should be looking at the Ultra quiet one like they use in dental surgeries like this one https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/quiet-run-compressor-5/ (but I wouldn't buy a Clarke), but they are generally fairly low output unless you get the more expensive multiple units. If you want to go quiet and high volume you need a screw compressor http://thecompressorstore.co.uk/prod...FVhXDQodk7QASA (loadsa money!!)
    It takes all sorts to make a world, I am just glad I am not one of them.

  8. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by lucan07 View Post
    May be possible to use an old calor bottle for a tank to solve flow issues.
    I did for years, it means you can have a fairly small i.d. pipe to connect them and you get a good blast of air from the reserve in the bottle. It is best if you dry the air before distributing it, or at least have the gas bottle upside down so no water collects in it.
    It takes all sorts to make a world, I am just glad I am not one of them.

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