Page 8 of 30 FirstFirst ... 67891018 ... LastLast
  1. #71
    Off subject just making sure you have this came across it looking for something else looks interesting

    http://neme-s.org/Shaper%20Books/bri...%20Rebuild.pdf

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to lucan07 For This Useful Post:


  3. #72
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 4 Hours Ago Has been a member for 8-9 years. Has a total post count of 1,398. Received thanks 139 times, giving thanks to others 5 times.
    I got replacement Bijur metering units for my mill from Lubetec. They do have a web shop, but it's just a generic skinned airline/pneumatics one used by lots of similar suppliers, and doesn't contain any of the lubrication stuff.

    They do however have their own catalogue online, which contains all the centralised lubrication stuff.

    I did consider the Arc Euro parts, however the threads were wrong and the genuine Bijur ones weren't that much more expensive. Just checked and they were 5.54+VAT each a few years ago, so not worth the hassle of retapping threads and changing fittings.

    You'll need to get the flow rate of the existing metering units, as well as the thread/style/direction of flow if you need new ones.
    I removed all the metering units from my mill, connected them up, and then left the lube system running overnight (it's an electric motorised one designed to lube every few hours). Any that were still dry in the morning, I replaced as they're pretty much impossible to clean properly once gummed up, and a few metering units is far cheaper than the potential damage from lack of lube.
    One trick I did use, was to fill the system with ATF fluid and leave it running for a day. You can then check that all the slides have a nice coating of red oil, which tells you the system is working and getting oil to where it should.

    For replacement pipe/fittings, I just used whoever could supply them. My mill originally had aluminium distribution pipe, which had corroded where it had been sitting in coolant, so I replaced it with the same sized copper pipe.
    Avoiding the rubbish customer service from AluminiumWarehouse since July '13.

  4. #73
    Thanks I'll have to test them all first then.

    The plumbing is all nylon so that should be cheap enough with some olives.

    Mine is a manual pull-pump by interlube.

  5. #74
    Looking better...

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1357s.jpg 
Views:	43 
Size:	1.17 MB 
ID:	18524

    Got the knee painted too.

    Hit a block now - turns out the knee-lift screw bearing is dead, got the deadly silver paste coming out of it and feels like a bag of nuts. Will have to order one from somewhere but cant reassemble until i get it :(

  6. #75
    Got most of the big stuff stripped , sanded and painted now. Started putting a few little bits back on but cant do much until i get the new knee lift bearing.

    Found an issue with old lube system - this is the feed to the saddle...
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1363s.jpg 
Views:	28 
Size:	1.04 MB 
ID:	18527
    Olive was cocked and tube crimped, probably wrong size olive for the pipe :(

    Moving on....

    Motor mount plates for X & Y axes.

    Is it better to hang the plates from the four bracket mount screws or the three bearing retainer screws?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_1362s.jpg 
Views:	25 
Size:	1.30 MB 
ID:	18528

    Using the four screws would mean a much larger lump of metal is needed to span the width, I won't be refitting the dials so using the three mount screws probably won't affect anything.

    Any thoughts?

  7. #76
    Go off the plate:






    I made a spacer and clamped it all there.

    My Y axis one looks like this:





    I bought proper angular high spec contact bearings for the screws (+250) and some very fancy face locking lock nuts from Germany.
    www.emvioeng.com
    Stocking more goodies than just Smoothsteppers

  8. #77
    Very nice :)

    Have you any more pics, looking for ideas on homing/limit switches etc

    I had not thought of putting the Y motor to the rear, all the builds i have seen have it hanging down low beneath the handle, it will have to stick out though as my motor is too long to tuck under.

  9. #78
    Dave, I have mounted my limits off of the newall DRO scales but not happy with them. Going to be printing some parts shortly to fix the issues and will post.
    www.emvioeng.com
    Stocking more goodies than just Smoothsteppers

  10. #79
    Ok, I am only using the Mach DRO's - my Sino DRO kit will be sold to raise funds, can't really see the need to have two DRO systems.

  11. #80
    Yes, with the CSMio you can get away from the extra DRO. I have it becuase I am using steppers and a smoothstepper but also have a very cunning plan there too.

    What kind of switches are you planning on using?
    www.emvioeng.com
    Stocking more goodies than just Smoothsteppers

Page 8 of 30 FirstFirst ... 67891018 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Milling machine CNC conversion - keep hand wheels for manual operation?
    By birchy in forum Milling Machines, Builds & Conversions
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 23-10-2016, 08:29 PM
  2. Manual autochanger problems.
    By Saracen in forum Lathes, Lathe Rebuilding & Conversions
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 05-02-2015, 01:14 AM
  3. WANTED: Centec 2A manual
    By Web Goblin in forum Items Wanted
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 03-09-2012, 09:56 AM
  4. Translating the manual
    By Robin Hewitt in forum Moulding Machines
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 01-09-2012, 01:21 PM
  5. Bridgeport Conversion
    By Tony Goodwin in forum Bridgeport Milling Machines
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 08-08-2011, 08:11 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •