The 2DM860H chinese controllers vs the rest?

[Doddy]

I've just googled a BY1144. I don't think my pocket money would have stretched that far. Nor the incomer to the house supply.

Recap:



I'm going to replace MOSFETs marked M1 and M6. I'm going to be lazy and crop the leads from the devices to give me 3 pins soldered to the PCB, but first a sanity check that the device, removed from the board, exhibits the problems measured in circuit.



Next, with tweezers (reduce the thermal mass) remove each pin with the aid of a soldering iron from the copper side.



Next, with solder-wick and the iron, try to clean out the lead holes for the MOSFETs the best I can. In honesty I did 4 this way before falling back on a desoldering workstation - I figured I'd proven the point that this can be done cheaply... but no point labouring this point to myself - use the best tool for the job.



Next, repeat for the second device. Then clean up all the old flux with a bit of IPA and the wife's toothbrush.



Bend and crop the leads of the replacement MOSFETs, insert and solder from the copper side of the board. A quick examination of the component side confirmed no heavy current traces on that side, so no need to risk trying to solder from the component side as well (the access is inhibited with a couple of wire wound resistors).


Note, plenty of heat-sink paste applied to all components.

Next apply power (having replaced the fuse), without a motor attached to check that nothing goes pop...



80-odd milliamps - sounds about right for a microcontroller and LEDs.

Full blown test - sig-gen pulsing the STEP input to the driver. It took me five minutes of checking before first realising that 5Hz and whatever micro steps selected that the motor was actually turning, before ramping up the frequency.




So, thanks to the encouragement from Kit to not throw it away - I think I have a repaired Stepper Driver. Having compared the electronics to the replacement DM860 that I bought I'd sooner use this 2DM860 model with what appears much better (robust/specc'd) electronics.

Repair is not for everyone, but perhaps if someone is as clumsy as me you might consider this before spending on a replacement. Your results may vary!

EDIT: Eagle-eyed video viewers may notice that I'd replaced the cooling fan wiring to the board with a couple of Dupont connectors, just to allow me to separate the board from the heatsink easily, plus, the soldering job underneath the silicone was atrocious.