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27-01-2020 #81
Fair enough! It seems to be the go-to set-up at that price point. Although, in all fairness, I can't seem to find any alternatives either (other than units looking exactly the same, but with different logo)...How do you find the noise level? In youtube videos it seems a bit noisy, especially the VFD.
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27-01-2020 #82
No probs on the soldering side of things. I have a full on micro soldering setup at home along with microscope and various electronics kit. I like to repair any of my tech at home as I am actually qualified in electronics test and service mechanics and have a City and Guilds certificate too.
If you think soldering is hard try hand soldering an 0203 component under a stereo microscope. Even a bit of static will lift the component if you are not careful. I’ve gently touched the board with the flux syringe before now and had the resistor, or whatever, just vanish.
I also made an emergency stop interface for my CNC. I can watch my machine from another room on my iPad and if something goes wrong I just say Computer SCRAM and it hits the emergency stop on the machine from wherever I am in the flat. It’s actually safer than the amount of time it would take to reach my machine on crutches and I’m not sitting in front of a noisy machine for 1hour plus when it’s doing 3D carving of curved surfaces.
So yeah... soldering is a good skill to have.
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27-01-2020 #83
neoMorph,
I've made a few DIY surface-mount circuit boards but 1206 is my stock size for resistors and 0.05" pitch for chips so I'm sticking Stone Henge monoliths together by your standards.An optimist says the glass is half full, a pessimist says the glass is half empty, an engineer says you're using the wrong sized glass.
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27-01-2020 #84
As far as noise is concerned, the VFD has a fan which is noticeable in my workshop but not intrusive. The actual spindle is quiet enough that I'm happy to stand next to it when it's running. However, once it starts cutting then the noise makes me put on ear defenders!
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27-01-2020 #85
It’s easy enough to solder 0603 with practice but I prefer to stick to 0805. I tend to buy my surface mount parts in sample books and top up when I use them. Helps keep track of the tiny suckers lol.
Regarding the plug, if it’s the type I think then I already have several in my current CNC build. Even have some 7 pin ones. Those are hard.
Is it these ones?
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27-01-2020 #86
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27-01-2020 #87
I always have difficulty judging sizes from pictures. Usually have to get my callipers out.
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27-01-2020 #88
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27-01-2020 #89
They look like GX16?
The spindle will take a GX20.
I've been soldering lots of 7-pin GX16s and 4-pin GX20s this weekend.
Tip number 1: Get someone to help hold stuff. Failing that, grab a vise or something. And like ten of those helping hands things.
My technique (who knows if its good, but it seems to work). Tin the wires. Prep the pin with a decent amount of solder. Then flow it whilst simultaneously heating the wire, and bring the two together asap. Reflow once you're happy its in a good place to avoid a cold joint. Can be a real PITA when you're dealing with very short cable ends to keep it looking tidy.
Oh and DON'T forget to put everything on the right side of the damn panel. Spot the error below...
Last edited by AndyUK; 27-01-2020 at 07:32 PM.
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27-01-2020 #90
The vice is a must. If you put a socket (plug) in the vice and plug in the plug (socket) you're soldering then the socket (plug) will support the pins in place and help avoid distortion through overheating the plastic, though if you're as quick as you should be this won't be a problem. You're using the same method I do, just keep everything clean before tinning, don't twist the wires with sweaty fingers and clean the iron on a sponge between each application. Don't try using a gob of solder that's been sitting on the iron for a while. Sleeving over each pin will prevent shorts between pins or pins and the case.
An optimist says the glass is half full, a pessimist says the glass is half empty, an engineer says you're using the wrong sized glass.
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