Aluminium Extrusion Router Build

[Nr1madman]

I've got a bit more work done and have made the Z axis end plates. These were quite complex and I started with a large rectangle of 12mm aluminium. I used the table saw to cut the bottom leg and then drilled 16mm holes in the corners of the middle part to be removed. I roughly cut the shape out using a bandsaw and neatened the edges using an end mill in my router. The curved parts were roughly cut on the bandsaw and neatened up using an oscillating bobbin sander. Finally I drilled the bolt holes and the hole for the inductive proximity sensor. I've left the top motor mount a bit longer as I'm going to mount the Y axis drag chains to it and have yet to finalise the exact position of it. On a side note I've had a really good run selling a load of old car audio gear on eBay and have made over £1500 pounds so I'm seriously tempted to go with a complete CS Labs system, using their motion controller, simDrive servo controllers, servo drives and power supply.



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Beautiful work!

Im amazed at the stuff you do with basic tools..

Keep it up!

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[NFryer]

Beautiful work!

Im amazed at the stuff you do with basic tools..

Keep it up!

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Hi, thanks for the compliment, I'm quite surprised at how well the build is going myself. I have discovered however that the aluminium cuts a lot like high density hardwoods such as english oak, african blackwood or leadwood, although things need to be well clamped as the aluminium is a bit grabby. In others way it is easier as with a bit of cutting oil you can get really good cuts and keep the cutter cooler than when cutting the hardwoods. I cut a 35mm diameter by 12mm deep hole in one of the gantry end plates for the FF12 ballscrew support just with a standard forstner bit. With the addition of the cutting oil the bit never got very hot and when I had finished it was cool enough that I could hold it, definitely not the case when cutting the denser hardwoods with the same forstner bit.

[AndyGuid]

I have discovered however that the aluminium cuts a lot like high density hardwoods such as english oak, african blackwood or leadwood, although things need to be well clamped as the aluminium is a bit grabby.

In other ways it is easier as with a bit of cutting oil you can get really good cuts and keep the cutter cooler than when cutting the hardwoods.

I cut a 35mm diameter by 12mm deep hole in one of the gantry end plates for the FF12 ballscrew support just with a standard forstner bit.

With the addition of the cutting oil the bit never got very hot and when I had finished it was cool enough that I could hold it, definitely not the case when cutting the denser hardwoods with the same forstner bit.

Thanks for that very useful info!
Andy

[NFryer]

Thanks for that very useful info!
Andy

I forgot to add that when I used the forstner bits I had to drill a pilot hole through the aluminium as the centre part of the forstner bit won't cut the aluminium. For example I used a 4mm drill for a 36mm forstner bit which also acted as a good guide to get the bit started. Anyhow I got the hole drilled out for the FK12 bearing and test fitted it.




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[wiremonkey]

MILLING WITH A ROUTER!? Impressive. Nice work!