Any USB/Ethernet controller suggestions?

[jtar40]

Hello, I was wondering if anyone could give me some input or suggestions on a controller to buy. A few details to be noted, I'd need it to be either USB or Ethernet but not parallel port because my desktop broke(which had a parallel port) left me glued to my laptop. Now this is mainly for hobby use, therefore I can't spend too much, yet I do realize that these can get quite expensive.

I don't have any experience with the software control either so I'm open to suggestions on that too (although I've seen some solid reviews on Linux cnc and I see mach is commonly used for hobbiest use).

Finally my opinion; I had an Arduino Uno, with grbl firmware downloaded. For a few days I was able to get it working my old cnc by attaching it's pin outs to the proper input pins on my 3axis tb6560. I accidentally left the current slightly too high from the power supply resulting in the tb6560 board eventually frying. Although this happened, I still think it's a good idea to use Arduino as a cnc controller because it is so cheap for what it can offer.

Anywho, like I said, I'm just looking for some suggestions on controller boards and software, I think Arduino is a good controller but I'm open to any opinions as I'm inexperienced. (FYI: I have a 3 axis cnc router 4',2' that consists of nema 23's running off 3 amps).

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[Chaz]

Hello, I was wondering if anyone could give me some input or suggestions on a controller to buy. A few details to be noted, I'd need it to be either USB or Ethernet but not parallel port because my desktop broke(which had a parallel port) left me glued to my laptop. Now this is mainly for hobby use, therefore I can't spend too much, yet I do realize that these can get quite expensive.

I don't have any experience with the software control either so I'm open to suggestions on that too (although I've seen some solid reviews on Linux cnc and I see mach is commonly used for hobbiest use).

Finally my opinion; I had an Arduino Uno, with grbl firmware downloaded. For a few days I was able to get it working my old cnc by attaching it's pin outs to the proper input pins on my 3axis tb6560. I accidentally left the current slightly too high from the power supply resulting in the tb6560 board eventually frying. Although this happened, I still think it's a good idea to use Arduino as a cnc controller because it is so cheap for what it can offer.

Anywho, like I said, I'm just looking for some suggestions on controller boards and software, I think Arduino is a good controller but I'm open to any opinions as I'm inexperienced. (FYI: I have a 3 axis cnc router 4',2' that consists of nema 23's running off 3 amps).

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Its all relative. Budget?

Ive personally just upgraded my lathe to CNC using Centroid's Acorn. Lovely kit / hardware and no more Mach 3. Not the cheapest option but by no means the most expensive either.

Budget will largely determine your options ...

[pmesilver]

hi
i have used the ethernet version of the smoothstepper from warp9,with great success.
coupled with the pmdx 126 breakout board and gecko stepper motor drivers. these were used to convert a connect 121 lathe and a cncmasters junior mill, to mach 3

regards paul

[m_c]

Arduino/GRBL is the cheapest option. Not that high performance, or that many features, but will plod along and do the job.

Next step up would be a secondhand desktop to get a working parallel port. Opens up the options of LinuxCNC, or Mach.

Then you're in to the realm of various USB/Ethernet external motion controllers.
CS-Labs, PMDX, CNC-Drive UCxxx, KFlop, SmoothStepper, Planet CNC, along with various Chinese offerings, and a few others I've forgotten.

What would be recommended depends on if you're looking for any specific features, want certain customisation, and budget.

[jtar40]

Alright so I've gotten a lot of input and I realized the common denominator is that it really depends on what software you're starting with, and what your budget is set at.
So I got some great input on Linux cnc although I read up on it that you need a Real Time Operating System, (I don't really have a great understanding on that, if someone could help a brother out). I also see Mach3 and 4 are very common yet unreliable (I'm not totally sure why it isn't reliable but can someone explain or direct me to where I can find out)
I've also got solid recommendations about UCCNC using the UC400ETH controller

So what would you guys recommend, or why would you guys not recommend another software.

By the way, up till now I was thinking of purchasing the Ethernet smooth stepper with Mach 3/4, or the UC400 with UCCNC.

Summary- what cnc software would you recommend for someone building a simple 3 axis cnc
- sorry again if I left anything out, let me know.

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[johngoodrich]

personally I would get the uc300eth and UCCNC

[phill05]

Its all relative. Budget?

Ive personally just upgraded my lathe to CNC using Centroid's Acorn. Lovely kit

What would be customs charges on this package?

Phill

[m_c]

For a basic 3 axis machine, then there's not really much to choose between controllers.
You might also want to consider one of the standalone controllers (search ebay for "CNC offline controller" or "CNC standalone controller").

Regards Mach 3 problems, on a basic machine it works fine. There are some issues when you go beyond the basics though, especially with external motion controllers, but nothing that really makes it unusable. It's just quirks that mean you might not be able to do things how you think they should be done.

Mach 4 is fine, it's just it's never really been that popular. Mach 3 was pretty revolutionary for it's time and is why it is so popular, but technology has changed, there are far more options now, and Mach 4 doesn't really bring any major benefits over the other options.

[m_c]

What would be customs charges on this package?

Phill

If declared properly, IIRC it's 2.2% duty, plus courier handling fee, plus 20% VAT.
So if you budget 23% for the governments cut, then £10-25 for the couriers fee, it'll give you a rough idea.

[Chaz]

What would be customs charges on this package?

Phill

£70 ish. Ordered on Sunday night, received Wednesday same week.

[phill05]

Thank you.

[magicniner]

Doesn't using Centroid tie you to using a Windows 10 PC?

[Chaz]

Doesn't using Centroid tie you to using a Windows 10 PC?

Probably but I’m ok with that.

[magicniner]

It should be fine if you vet updates before applying them, it's still "Bleeding Edge" for systems you require to have guaranteed up time, if your CNC PC doesn't connect to the Internet and is only used for running the machine there should be no issues at all.

[Desertboy]

On a budget
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CNC-4-Axis-Motion-Controller-500KHz-Stepper-Motor-Driver-eStop-Handwheel-UK/282900296401?hash=item41de2bf2d1:g:UqEAAOSwQ7hauLA l
No import tax (For EU at least) with MPG wheel or just search ebay for 500khz cnc for direct from china without the wheel. (~£130, take the risk)

You could do a lot worse there's a thread on here about them, many happy users on here and plenty of people to help you get started.

http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/10187-DDSCV1-1-3-and-4-axis-offline-motion-controller

Not sure how import tax works in Algeria it might be cheaper to import from China or EU you have to check this yourself.

[A_Camera]

Alright so I've gotten a lot of input and I realized the common denominator is that it really depends on what software you're starting with, and what your budget is set at.
So I got some great input on Linux cnc although I read up on it that you need a Real Time Operating System, (I don't really have a great understanding on that, if someone could help a brother out). I also see Mach3 and 4 are very common yet unreliable (I'm not totally sure why it isn't reliable but can someone explain or direct me to where I can find out)
I've also got solid recommendations about UCCNC using the UC400ETH controller

So what would you guys recommend, or why would you guys not recommend another software.

By the way, up till now I was thinking of purchasing the Ethernet smooth stepper with Mach 3/4, or the UC400 with UCCNC.

Summary- what cnc software would you recommend for someone building a simple 3 axis cnc
- sorry again if I left anything out, let me know.


I am using UC300ETH and UCCNC. It works just as well with Mach3 but I like UCCNC more. I would definitely recommand either UC400ETH or UC300ETH. If you don't need more inputs than what is available on the UC400ETH and you have no need for extra ain/aout then the UC400ETH is an excellent choice. You don't NEED to get the UCCNC software, but at that price it is definitely worth to try. You can also just download the software without license, it will in that case run in demo mode, which includes everything except motion commands. That way you can try it out and see if you like it or not, but it isn't very expensive, so it is worth to get a license because that would definitely show the advantages of it over Mach3, which is considerably more expensive than UCCNC. Also, UCCNC is actively maintained and developed, Mach3 is dead.

If you want new drivers, I'd advice you to get DQ542MA drivers. Those are very good and reliable. You can buy the drivers from some eBay seller and will not pay any tax if you select delivery from Germany or UK or other EU countries. UCCNC and the UCx00ETH motion controllers can be bought directly form Hungary, so it is also from EU.

[JAZZCNC]

If you want new drivers, I'd advice you to get DQ542MA drivers. Those are very good and reliable. You can buy the drivers from some eBay seller and will not pay any tax if you select delivery from Germany or UK or other EU countries. UCCNC and the UCx00ETH motion controllers can be bought directly form Hungary, so it is also from EU.

That would be bad advise.! The DQ542MA are Analog drives which is old technology. Yes they may work ok for you or others but that doesn't make them good drives to buy. There is no reason to use Analog drives these days because Digital drives are so cheap and the performance difference is very noticable.

[jtar40]

That would be bad advise.! The DQ542MA are Analog drives which is old technology. Yes they may work ok for you or others but that doesn't make them good drives to buy. There is no reason to use Analog drives these days because Digital drives are so cheap and the performance difference is very noticable.By any chance is there a specific digital driver you may recommend? I just see so many options it's quite hard to know what may be reliable.

(-I'm not sure if I mentioned it before but if it's relevant, I have 3 nema 23 stepper motors running off 3 amps and I was thinking of getting a uc300eth as the interface, I didn't really put much thought into the breakout board yet because I've been told it can be quite general for the simple 3axis cnc router machine I'm looking for making.)

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[Desertboy]

By any chance is there a specific digital driver you may recommend? I just see so many options it's quite hard to know what may be reliable.

(-I'm not sure if I mentioned it before but if it's relevant, I have 3 nema 23 stepper motors running off 3 amps and I was thinking of getting a uc300eth as the interface, I didn't really put much thought into the breakout board yet because I've been told it can be quite general for the simple 3axis cnc router machine I'm looking for making.)

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You can't go wrong with AM882's
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Leadshine-AM882-Digital-Stepper-motor-Drive-80VDC-0-1A-8-2A-protect-function/282651392228

Or EM806 (Which seem functionally identical to AM882)
https://www.zappautomation.co.uk/electrical-products/stepper-systems/stepper-drivers/em-high-performance-stepper-driver-step-direction/em806.html

I have AM882's very happy with them.

I think you're better off spending the money on decent digital drivers and a cheap BOB than cheap drivers but expensive controller. It's cheaper to upgrade the BOB than the drivers and gets you working ASAP.

[A_Camera]

That would be bad advise.! The DQ542MA are Analog drives which is old technology. Yes they may work ok for you or others but that doesn't make them good drives to buy. There is no reason to use Analog drives these days because Digital drives are so cheap and the performance difference is very noticable.
Are you kidding? The OP replaces TB6560 drivers and talks about Arduino...

The DQ542MA may be old analogue technology but it is well working, reliable, runs cold, fast and quiet as well as cheap, and for most amateurs/hobby users, that is more important than fancy modern digital drivers. Maybe one day I will get some digital drivers just for the fun of it, but to be honest, I really don't believe it would show any difference in my case. My machine is as fast as it can get and is much better than most other stepper based machines with direct driven ball screws can do, so I really don't know where digital drives could make a difference. Just because something is "digital" it isn't automatically better...

Also, I am sure you know this, but how well your drivers perform also depends on the motion controller. There is no benefit of faster and more modern drivers if you are limited by the mechanical and electrical design of the CNC.

[A_Camera]

(-I'm not sure if I mentioned it before but if it's relevant, I have 3 nema 23 stepper motors running off 3 amps and I was thinking of getting a uc300eth as the interface, I didn't really put much thought into the breakout board yet because I've been told it can be quite general for the simple 3axis cnc router machine I'm looking for making.)



I have the UC300ETH, but unless you feel you need many inputs/outputs the UC400 is in my opinion better because it is easier to box it. The power connection on the UC300 is a bit misplaced, and been inherited from the UC300USB. No big deal, but it is a bit irritating. If I buy another one it will be the UC400ETH because I don't need the analogue inputs/outputs and two ports are enough. I have two very cheap, $5 BOBs and they have been working well for about two years now. You can also buy a more expensive, industry quality BOB as well, but it is very expensive (but looks better). The analogue outputs are not needed to control the VFD if you have a BOB with 0-10V PWM out. I control mine via Modbus, which I think is much better, so I don't use any analogue outputs at all.

[JAZZCNC]

Are you kidding? The OP replaces TB6560 drivers and talks about Arduino...

No I'm not Kidding and the OP ask's for suggestions for Good drives and to advise he buys old Analog technology is bad advise IMO.

Like I say just because your using them and happy with them doesn't make them good. It just means you don't know any better. You've already proven this by saying you havent used Digital drives so can't possibly know the difference.

Also to claim your machine is fast as it can get and is better than any other stepper machine is just plain ridiculous when your using analog drives with 50Vdc drives. Digital drives running stepper motors with 70Vdc will blow any analog drive with motors running 45Vdc out the water on every level.
Even like for like on voltage Digital drives will make difference to both speed and smoothness.

Regards the Controller making a big difference then your correct. However this is also a area where Digital drives make a huge difference over Analog when not using good motion controller Ie: PP because they handle resonance and lower grade signals so much better.

This isn't about Digital is better just for the sake of it. The truth is, whether you care to accept it or not, is that Digital is better for several reasons and anyone who has had shity Analog drives will tell you this.

[A_Camera]

You can't go wrong with AM882's
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Leadshine-AM882-Digital-Stepper-motor-Drive-80VDC-0-1A-8-2A-protect-function/282651392228

Or EM806 (Which seem functionally identical to AM882)
https://www.zappautomation.co.uk/electrical-products/stepper-systems/stepper-drivers/em-high-performance-stepper-driver-step-direction/em806.html

I have AM882's very happy with them.

I think you're better off spending the money on decent digital drivers and a cheap BOB than cheap drivers but expensive controller. It's cheaper to upgrade the BOB than the drivers and gets you working ASAP.

What would be the point of buying 8A drivers to run 3A motors with? "Better" is a relative... is it 4-5 times better than the DQ542MA? It MUST be 4-5 times better to motivate the price difference, but I doubt that. Sure, with unlimited budget, no question about it, but I still doubt there is ANY benefit at all to use 8A drivers to run 3A motors. Also, the UC300ETH is not an "expensive" controller at all, quite the opposite, but again, even "expensive" is very relative.

Also, the OP asked about reliable recommendations, not just eBay guessing. It is pretty easy to list a bunch of expensive parts and claim they are "better" without describing what they are better at and why or how. Of course, very few really KNOWS because very few people actually tried many different drivers, controllers, bobs in all kind of combinations.

[magicniner]

What would be the point of buying 8A drivers to run 3A motors with?

I must have missed the actual motor spec, all I saw was that they were running off 3A, I have a set of NEMA 23 steppers that are rated 4.2A :D

[A_Camera]

No I'm not Kidding and the OP ask's for suggestions for Good drives and to advise he buys old Analog technology is bad advise IMO.

Fine, but then why debate with me and not giving him better advise?


Like I say just because your using them and happy with them doesn't make them good. It just means you don't know any better. You've already proven this by saying you havent used Digital drives so can't possibly know the difference.

My own experience is just as valid as anybody else's, but if I am wrong, fine, explain why and where so we all can learn something. Saying that I am wrong does not help anyone.


Also to claim your machine is fast as it can get and is better than any other stepper machine is just plain ridiculous when your using analog drives with 50Vdc drives. Digital drives running stepper motors with 70Vdc will blow any analog drive with motors running 45Vdc out the water on every level.
Even like for like on voltage Digital drives will make difference to both speed and smoothness.

It doesn't help if in theory it can spin faster when in reality the limits of the ball screw is reached. Of course, if you just spin the motor milling air (or just spinning) then it may be smoother and faster but will you REALLY see any difference in real use? Will the difference REALLY be as much as the difference in price? I doubt that.


Regards the Controller making a big difference then your correct. However this is also a area where Digital drives make a huge difference over Analog when not using good motion controller Ie: PP because they handle resonance and lower grade signals so much better.

This isn't about Digital is better just for the sake of it. The truth is, whether you care to accept it or not, is that Digital is better for several reasons and anyone who has had shity Analog drives will tell you this.

"Shitty driver" is the TB chips based drivers, not the DQ542MA. Anybody who claims the DQ542MA is a "shitty driver" has no idea about what he is talking about. Yes, no doubt that the digital drivers are better, the question is just how much better. Dismissing my experience is fine by me, but if you want to help the OP then answer his questions. I'll be fine with my "shitty drivers" as long as they do what they are expected to do, run as smooth and fast as they do and are as reliable as they are.

[Desertboy]

What would be the point of buying 8A drivers to run 3A motors with? "Better" is a relative... is it 4-5 times better than the DQ542MA? It MUST be 4-5 times better to motivate the price difference, but I doubt that. Sure, with unlimited budget, no question about it, but I still doubt there is ANY benefit at all to use 8A drivers to run 3A motors. Also, the UC300ETH is not an "expensive" controller at all, quite the opposite, but again, even "expensive" is very relative.

Also, the OP asked about reliable recommendations, not just eBay guessing. It is pretty easy to list a bunch of expensive parts and claim they are "better" without describing what they are better at and why or how. Of course, very few really KNOWS because very few people actually tried many different drivers, controllers, bobs in all kind of combinations.

If you want to upgrade the controller and spent $5 on a BOB then you are out of pocket $5, if you want to upgrade the drivers you are out of pocket £120 for 4

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cnc-4-2A-50VDC-128Micro-Bipolar-CNC-digital-Wantai-Nema23-Stepper-driver-DQ542MA/141209874378?hash=item20e0c3afca:g:wGMAAOxyni9TFCP q

To me spend the cash on the AM882's for stall protection and use a cheap BOB then upgrade the electronics later when budget allows.

A cheap BOB is also compatible with mach 3 and linuxcnc so you can try both before locking yourself into a vendor without trying the software out.

It's basically double the cost for AM882's and then the extra cost for supplying 70v instead of 48v, you'll see most of us with 80v drivers make a PSU with transformer, rectifier and capacitors which adds another £70 making 4*AM882, PSU and BOB £320 which is to me the minimum spec for building a new router.

With a cheap PP BOB and a reasonable latency PC if you set microsteps to 8 (Or even 2 on slow PC) you'll get good enough performance to run at max speed on any home machine.

[Ger21]

You could get EM503's, which are 50V and 4.2A, but AM882's are cheaper. I've payed as little as $58 for AM882's.

[A_Camera]

If you want to upgrade the controller and spent $5 on a BOB then you are out of pocket $5, if you want to upgrade the drivers you are out of pocket £120 for 4

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cnc-4-2A-50VDC-128Micro-Bipolar-CNC-digital-Wantai-Nema23-Stepper-driver-DQ542MA/141209874378?hash=item20e0c3afca:g:wGMAAOxyni9TFCP q

To me spend the cash on the AM882's for stall protection and use a cheap BOB then upgrade the electronics later when budget allows.

A cheap BOB is also compatible with mach 3 and linuxcnc so you can try both before locking yourself into a vendor without trying the software out.

It's basically double the cost for AM882's and then the extra cost for supplying 70v instead of 48v, you'll see most of us with 80v drivers make a PSU with transformer, rectifier and capacitors which adds another £70 making 4*AM882, PSU and BOB £320 which is to me the minimum spec for building a new router.

With a cheap PP BOB and a reasonable latency PC if you set microsteps to 8 (Or even 2 on slow PC) you'll get good enough performance to run at max speed on any home machine.

I still don't understand what the benefit would be in using 8A drivers with 3A motors. In my opinion that's overkill. Also, if I would spend that much on the driver I would NOT buy a cheap BOB. I understand that the AM882 has stall protection, but come on... is it really a huge issue? After all, stall is a cause of wrong use or configuration. Also, why not the DM542T? It is more of a realistic match for the 3A motors than the AM882 and is much cheaper. Yes, the AM882 is 80V while the DM542T is only 50V, but again, if a machine is well built you will hit the speed limit anyway, even with the 50V drivers.

[m_c]

I still don't understand what the benefit would be in using 8A drivers with 3A motors. In my opinion that's overkill. Also, if I would spend that much on the driver I would NOT buy a cheap BOB. I understand that the AM882 has stall protection, but come on... is it really a huge issue? After all, stall is a cause of wrong use or configuration. Also, why not the DM542T? It is more of a realistic match for the 3A motors than the AM882 and is much cheaper. Yes, the AM882 is 80V while the DM542T is only 50V, but again, if a machine is well built you will hit the speed limit anyway, even with the 50V drivers.

Current and voltage has little to do with the reason.
DM/Q drives are older technology.
AM/EM drives are the latest technology, with the benefits of auto-tuning and anti-resonance. Both of which mean the drives have much better performance for any given power supply or motor. Stall detection is just an additional feature, which on dual motor axes, can greatly limit racking damage should a stall occur, and can also stop things on single motor axes, should something go wrong. You've got to remember, it's not just over tuning that can cause stalling, crashes can as well.

[JAZZCNC]

Fine, but then why debate with me and not giving him better advise?

I didn't need to give OP any advise because the correct advice had already been given by others. Unfortunately thou not by you and thou you don't like to hear this it must be said for the benifit of others.




My own experience is just as valid as anybody else's, but if I am wrong, fine, explain why and where so we all can learn something. Saying that I am wrong does not help anyone.

Yes your advise if valid agreed to a point.! . . But to spout and I quote "My machine is as fast as it can get and is much better than most other stepper based machines with direct driven ball screws can do, so I really don't know where digital drives could make a difference."
without any experience of ever using Digital drives and probably with same amount of experience of other machines with same setup to me just cancels out any validity to anything you said.



It doesn't help if in theory, it can spin faster when in reality the limits of the ball screw is reached. Of course, if you just spin the motor milling air (or just spinning) then it may be smoother and faster but will you REALLY see any difference in real use? Will the difference REALLY be as much as the difference in price? I doubt that.

How do you know you have reached the limit of the ballscrew.? I'm guessing your using 5mm pitch screw and I can tell you with 100% certainty thru lots of experience that 50V Analog drive with 3A motor, which will probably be running 40-45Vdc cannot get any where near the limit of 5mm Pitch screw that is correctly fitted. Even a 50V Digital drive with same voltage won't get near it's limit.

I suspect your going to quote ballscrews Critical speed in reply to this but I'm talking real world usage which is very different thing so don't waste your fingers.



"Shitty driver" is the TB chips based drivers, not the DQ542MA. Anybody who claims the DQ542MA is a "shitty driver" has no idea about what he is talking about. Yes, no doubt that the digital drivers are better, the question is just how much better. Dismissing my experience is fine by me, but if you want to help the OP then answer his questions.

No your the one who has no idea what he's talking about and here's why. The DQ542MA are just copies of original leadshine M542. Which in there day were just an average Analog drive, nothing special. As time went on Analog drives got little better with more advanced chopper circuits etc but still had limits/issues under certain setup/circumstances.
Jump forward several years and Digital drive arrived and even the early drives where major advancement from analog drives and when compairing to Cheap copies of Analog drive like DQ542MA where very big difference.

The current crop of Digital drives are light years more advanced than Analog drives with the end result being far superior performence gains in overall speed and much smoother performance at lower speeds and generally across the rull RPM range compared to Analog.
Combined then these make considerable difference in performance and I've seen machines with Old Analog drives which struggled to reach 1000 rpm instantly spin same motors at 1500rpm with smoother action and far less heating.

Now just to show I'm not just talking theory or got feeling in my water Digital may be better.! Watch these videos which I took to try and show others the difference Digital drives make. Also Just note that the videos don't actually tell the true picture or show the true difference in sound or smoothness. The same machine with only a drive change went from a maximum rapid speed of 8mtr/min to 15mtr/min.!! . . . And if you still think I'm bull shitting then I've got witness who can back this up in form of Clive S.

Anyone who's done there research on this forum will have seen that many many times I've expalined and shown why Digital is better. Every thing I advise is based on real world hands on experience, like wise If I recommend or call something bad it's based on me using or experiencing this product. Or I make it clear I've not used them but know from trusted sources that are good/bad.

Unlike you I would never put down or Dismiss something without first experiencing. Also I do get tired of repeating my self so please don't try giving me shit because I've not choosen to repeat my self but instead decided to try helping others by highlighting your Bad advise.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=er4XEEbjk1E&t=30s


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2-Aub2fetw&t=64s

[A_Camera]

Current and voltage has little to do with the reason.
DM/Q drives are older technology.
AM/EM drives are the latest technology, with the benefits of auto-tuning and anti-resonance. Both of which mean the drives have much better performance for any given power supply or motor. Stall detection is just an additional feature, which on dual motor axes, can greatly limit racking damage should a stall occur, and can also stop things on single motor axes, should something go wrong. You've got to remember, it's not just over tuning that can cause stalling, crashes can as well.

That is not entirely right. While the DM542T is not the absolutely latest and greatest, it is actually a 2017 product and is in production (by Stepperonline), while the AM882 is obsolete, but still sold, and is advised NOT to be used in new products. At least if we look at what Leadshine is saying about their products. The DM and DQ drivers are not the same, as far as I know, DM is original Leadshine, DQ is fake copy and Leadshine still makes the DM driver. The latest is the EM-S, which probably will replace the DM drivers one day. The DM542E is made by Leadshine and is from 2016 and is in production, the AM product line is no longer in production.

http://www.leadshineusa.com/product-type.aspx?type=products&category=stepper-products&producttype=stepper-drives

[A_Camera]

Jazz, those two videos are not very informative. No data about what "Clive Analog" or AM882 digital is using for motors, power supply or anything. Also, in my opinion, milling air is pretty pointless, if you want to show speed you should run rapid passes, not milling imaginary material. Yes, you say it went from 8m/min to 15m/min so that is good, but still not really say everything about the change, other than you swapped the drivers and the new ones are probably considerably more expensive than the old ones, but which were the old ones?

Yes, I am using 5mm screws and I am not sure you are right about me being far from the speed limit. Perhaps it is possible to drive them a bit faster, but 10m/min is a very good speed, no doubt about that.


https://youtu.be/m1zxi-BjIhc

Yes, in theory the speed limit is 35m/min for my Y screw (16mm dia, fixed one end 650mm apart, 5mm pitch, 7053rpm limit (https://ncalculators.com/mechanical/lead-screw-critical-speed-calculator.htm)) but that is just the theory with an imaginary motor and no friction, no nut and a perfect screw, no eBay products, no vibration.

I have no doubt in my mind that digital driver is better than my old analogue driver is, but it is more a question of how much better and why than "it is better because I say so". ...and yes, I knew when I bought my DQ542MA drivers that they were copy of Leadshine drivers, so nothing new there.

There is also a difference in build quality. The machine in your video looks MUCH better build than most other machines I have seen, so of course, that is a huge advantage as well, but none the less, I KNOW that most eBay and DIY machines are not as fast as mine, even if I am not into the speed race and don't care much about bragging, but it is a fact that majority of DIY and eBay machines end up in the 4-5m/min maximum speed.

[magicniner]

Jazz, those two videos are not very informative.

Perhaps you might be informed by the fact that he builds high quality CNC machines for commercial customers? ;-)

[A_Camera]

Perhaps you might be informed by the fact that he builds high quality CNC machines for commercial customers? ;-)

Yes I know. Nevertheless those two video didn't say anything and was not very informative.

[Doddy]

https://youtu.be/m1zxi-BjIhc


A_Camera : Sorry - completely off-topic but I can't PM you - that video intrigues me - how have you terminated the braid on the CY cable? on your control box (I looks like a copper ferrule, in which case could you point me where you bought them? - or is it simply copper tape?) - If you can PM me to keep this thread from straying too far off topic?

[m_c]

That is not entirely right. While the DM542T is not the absolutely latest and greatest, it is actually a 2017 product and is in production (by Stepperonline), while the AM882 is obsolete, but still sold, and is advised NOT to be used in new products.

That just shows how little you actually understand about the drives and the technology in them.
The DM542 is using technology that must now be well over 20 year old now, just like Gecko are still using in most of their stepper drives. The only real change to the designs has been to use modern components, but the basics of operation are still the same as 20 years ago. It's just smaller components are used.

AM drives, although officially obsolete within Europe (they were superseded by the EM series), are still an active product produced by Leadshine. They use far newer technology, and monitor how the motor is reacting to the voltage/current applied to it, which is how they implement anti-resonance, auto-tuning, and stall detection. DM/DQ drives do not have that technology in them, regardless of when they were made.

[JAZZCNC]

Jazz, those two videos are not very informative. No data about what "Clive Analog" or AM882 digital is using for motors, power supply or anything. Also, in my opinion, milling air is pretty pointless, if you want to show speed you should run rapid passes, not milling imaginary material. Yes, you say it went from 8m/min to 15m/min so that is good, but still not really say everything about the change, other than you swapped the drivers and the new ones are probably considerably more expensive than the old ones, but which were the old ones?

They where never intended to be informative but purely to show difference Digital drives made compared to Analog. The spec is irrelavant in this case because nothing changed other than Analog drives where swapped for Digital.
However there was little more to it than just that.?
The machine was Originally built as favor to help new forum member who had very very tight budget. It was actually mostly built by Clive S using my design and little help from me regards machining etc and with spare component's we had laying around left over from previous builds. However the member Hit hard times and pulled out leaving Clive S with the machine which I then took over and upgraded to pass on to a customer. Hence why the videos are in different locations. This was the end result See pic.

The Original control box used the parallel port (Mach3) because of budget and was also housed in MDF box to save money. Obviously I couldn't sell it like this and won't use PP on anything I sell so new Control box was built. This gave me the perfect opertunity to see what difference individual components made.

So Orginal spec was 35Khz PP thru cheap BOB with leadshine M752 Copies(400Ms) spinning 3.1Nm 4.2a steppers with aprox 55-60Vdc. 10mm pitch screws.
This setup actually struggled to reach much past 4700mm/min.
So the first change was to swap out the PP for Cslabs IP-M 100Khz controller. This allowed the same setup to reach just over 6000mm/min before the drives couldn't handle the resonance and went into melt down. Next change was to adjust the Micro steps with the intent to move the resonance around, 800ms gave best performance of little over 8000mm/min before stalling occured.

The next change was the Am882 with 1600Ms which instantly transformed the machine into an Animal. The Max Rapid velocity with 1000s/s Acceleration was actually well in excess of 20mtr.min but it ran stable at 15000mm/min and would cut at this if required in certain materials, it happily surfaced the bed at this speed. The Actual Velocity and accelration was dropped to sensible 10M/min with 1500s/s acceleration for the customer who was new user.

Hopefully this level of detail meets your approval.

Note on the letters DM.!!. . Just because some Chinese Ripoff shop sticks DM on the front doesn't make them the same DM drives sold by leadshine nor does it mean they have same technology in them.
Leadshine DM are lower range of Digital drives the D identifies this. There Analog drives just used M. ie: M542 or M752. You will see loads of cheap knock off drives with DM or DQ before numbers but most are Analog not digital.
The AM and EM series are more advanced Digital drive and the AM have been superceeded by EM series and are just now becoming harder to find but still about. The EM are current and to be honest having used many sets there is very little difference between them. EM are Slightly smoother at lower RPM's but other than that no difference. So much so I've even mixed AM and EM on same machine, my own, and see no difference when using.

Whether you want to accept it of not the real truth is that Digital drives like the AM or EM are massive improvements on analog drives which transfers directly to very respectable performance gains even on the most well built machine with huge improvements in some cases because of there advanced resonance handling when using motors that are not exactly best quality.

24035


Yes, I am using 5mm screws and I am not sure you are right about me being far from the speed limit. Perhaps it is possible to drive them a bit faster, but 10m/min is a very good speed, no doubt about that.

Yes for Analog drives I agree that's very good speed, mostly made possible by fact small machine and well made by your self. But just for the record my very first machine which used 5mm pitch screws would spin well above 10,000mm/min and that was with 1500mm length screws and Gecko Analog drives so your little machine still as lot left in it trust me.!



I KNOW that most eBay and DIY machines are not as fast as mine, even if I am not into the speed race and don't care much about bragging, but it is a fact that majority of DIY and eBay machines end up in the 4-5m/min maximum speed.

Yes build quality makes big difference but your observations are not a good indicator because it could be just case that the machine is dumbed down lower and doesn't mean it couldn't go much faster if required.
I've built many machine which could easily be tuned to travel at twice the speed I supply the user with, hence above machine, but in truth most are frighted to Jog or travel at these speeds and rarely can they cut at these feeds because they cannot clear chips fast enough.

That's me done with this topic now but to all those looking for drives then stay away from Analog drives, Even the cheapest Digital drives are better than Analog and the price difference is nothing.

[jtar40]

I am using UC300ETH and UCCNC. It works just as well with Mach3 but I like UCCNC more. I would definitely recommand either UC400ETH or UC300ETH. If you don't need more inputs than what is available on the UC400ETH and you have no need for extra ain/aout then the UC400ETH is an excellent choice. You don't NEED to get the UCCNC software, but at that price it is definitely worth to try. You can also just download the software without license, it will in that case run in demo mode, which includes everything except motion commands. That way you can try it out and see if you like it or not, but it isn't very expensive, so it is worth to get a license because that would definitely show the advantages of it over Mach3, which is considerably more expensive than UCCNC. Also, UCCNC is actively maintained and developed, Mach3 is dead.

If you want new drivers, I'd advice you to get DQ542MA drivers. Those are very good and reliable. You can buy the drivers from some eBay seller and will not pay any tax if you select delivery from Germany or UK or other EU countries. UCCNC and the UCx00ETH motion controllers can be bought directly form Hungary, so it is also from EU.Alright, when it's talking about all the inputs it's talking about signals being generated going into the controller ie) limit switches, e-stop etc. Is this incorrect? Just because I don't really have a good understanding of the input capabilities, what should I be expecting in comparing the uc300eth, and the uc400eth. I see the uc300eth 5lpt has 36 outputs, 49 inputs, and the uc400eth doesn't.

Rephrase I don't know much about inputs, I personally don't think there's a need for so many. Therefore I'd probably go for the uc400eth but can someone maybe list off some other inputs (other than the 2 examples I mentioned) that people use?

Thanks
-Justin

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

[Ger21]

Limit Switches
Home Switches
Probes
Pushbuttons
Sensors
E Stop
MPG
Pendants
Encoders

[JAZZCNC]

Limit Switches
Home Switches
Probes
Pushbuttons
Sensors
E Stop
MPG
Pendants
Encoders

Let me expand this a little for you with rough some numbers. Many of these options you won't require but will be found on many CNC routers.
You'll also be surprised as you go along how many things you might like to add to the machine which require I/O and if you havent got them to start with it can be expensive or difficult adding them later. The little extra cost could be worth it long term.

INPUTS:
Home Switches = 4 (4 axis independant homing )
Limit Switches = 4 ( Independant axis sensing can be series wired to share 1 IN )
Probes = 1
Pushbuttons = 1 for each button required. ie: Feed hold, Cycle start, Step mode, Spindle on/off, Vac On/off, Coolant on/off, Air On/off
Sensors = 1 for each sensor. ie: ATC could easily use 6-12+ I/O dependant on style.
Rpm Sensor = 1
E Stop = 1
Servo Ready = 1
Servo fault = 1
Servo motor Stopped =1
Servo brake on/off = 1
MPG = 4 per axis for Simple hand wheel encoder plus 1 IN per function ie: Jog Mode, Step selection, E-stop
Encoders = 4 per axis (6 with Index)

Outputs:
Spindle on/off = 1
Spindle RPM = 1
Tool release = 1 (ATC)
ATC = 1 per action ie: Arm in/out, Arm up/down, Rotate, Clamp/release etc
Servo On/0ff = 1
Servo brake release = 1
Servo Reset = 1
Coolant on/off = 1
Vac on/off =1
Air on/off = 1
Pop up pins = 1
Dust hood retract = 1
Signal lights = 1 per Light ie: E-stop, Cycle start led, feed hold, Jog Mode etc

[A_Camera]

That just shows how little you actually understand about the drives and the technology in them.
The DM542 is using technology that must now be well over 20 year old now, just like Gecko are still using in most of their stepper drives. The only real change to the designs has been to use modern components, but the basics of operation are still the same as 20 years ago. It's just smaller components are used.

AM drives, although officially obsolete within Europe (they were superseded by the EM series), are still an active product produced by Leadshine. They use far newer technology, and monitor how the motor is reacting to the voltage/current applied to it, which is how they implement anti-resonance, auto-tuning, and stall detection. DM/DQ drives do not have that technology in them, regardless of when they were made.

Please, don't use "DM/DQ" as if they were equal, they are not. The DQ are Leadshine copy products, the DM are original Leadshine products. There are also many DM models, some outdated, some not, some digital, some analogue. And not all DM products use 20 years old technology, and even the AM882 is about 10 years old... so it is pretty far from the latest and most modern.

Apparently you didn't read what was stated by Leadshine on their own web page, which I linked to.


Legacy leadshine stepper drives which may have been discontinued or will be discontinued. Those stepper drives are not suggested for new applications anymore. You can contact us if you still have the needs to use any of them.


AM882 is one on that list, the DM542 is NOT on that list.


Leadshine's DM series digital stepper drives are DSP-based innovative products adopting the latest stepper control technology. Those stepper motor drives feature anti-resonance, low-speed ripple smoothing, extra-low noise, and low motor heating, therefore they can offer excellent performance for stepper motor controls.

The DM542 is on that list.

DM in itself is not equal to obsolete technology and not all DM are outdated products. The DM542 is, at least according to Leadshine, not an outdated model yet. Yes, it will probably be replaced by the EM542S and will be obsolete. The EM-S series seems to be a match of the DM series, while the EM series replaced the AM series, higher current and voltage drivers.

BTW, what is "officially obsolete" is obsolete. At least according to me. I am not saying that the AM882 is not better than my DQ542MA, of course I'd expect it to be better for that price, but it is a huge overkill for 3A motors.

[m_c]

Please, don't use "DM/DQ" as if they were equal, they are not. The DQ are Leadshine copy products, the DM are original Leadshine products. There are also many DM models, some outdated, some not, some digital, some analogue. And not all DM products use 20 years old technology, and even the AM882 is about 10 years old... so it is pretty far from the latest and most modern.


I couldn't be bothered checking the lastest spec, but all I'll say on the matter, is you continually recommend the DQ542MA, which is a copy of old technology.
It's the same technology Gecko have used for 20 years, and the same technology which Leadshine originally copied for their Dx drives.

But the key detail is, the D whatever drives, don't monitor the motor. They simply alter how they're drive the motor using various levels of micro-step morphing to avoid resonance, and allow smoother motor control, but that seems to be the point you're trying to avoid recognising by arguing over what is or isn't obsolete.

[A_Camera]

I couldn't be bothered checking the lastest spec, but all I'll say on the matter, is you continually recommend the DQ542MA, which is a copy of old technology.
It's the same technology Gecko have used for 20 years, and the same technology which Leadshine originally copied for their Dx drives.

But the key detail is, the D whatever drives, don't monitor the motor. They simply alter how they're drive the motor using various levels of micro-step morphing to avoid resonance, and allow smoother motor control, but that seems to be the point you're trying to avoid recognising by arguing over what is or isn't obsolete.

Yes, the DQ are copies, never ever stated otherwise. Never the less, they are very well made and for people who don't want to spend a small fortune on drivers it is still very good and I will continue recommending them. I can't compare with the Gecko, I think some things are actually better in the DQ, but that's just from looking at the specs. Again, just because soemthing is old technology, or analogue, it does not mean it is bad technology and that it has not been improved over the years.

[A_Camera]

A_Camera : Sorry - completely off-topic but I can't PM you - that video intrigues me - how have you terminated the braid on the CY cable? on your control box (I looks like a copper ferrule, in which case could you point me where you bought them? - or is it simply copper tape?) - If you can PM me to keep this thread from straying too far off topic?

PM sent.

[A_Camera]

Alright, when it's talking about all the inputs it's talking about signals being generated going into the controller ie) limit switches, e-stop etc. Is this incorrect? Just because I don't really have a good understanding of the input capabilities, what should I be expecting in comparing the uc300eth, and the uc400eth. I see the uc300eth 5lpt has 36 outputs, 49 inputs, and the uc400eth doesn't.

Rephrase I don't know much about inputs, I personally don't think there's a need for so many. Therefore I'd probably go for the uc400eth but can someone maybe list off some other inputs (other than the 2 examples I mentioned) that people use?

Thanks
-Justin

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

Personally I use two of the UC300ETH ports. Those ports give me a total of 10 inputs, which is enough for my needs. Using up many more inputs is not difficult, but of course it requires a lot of wires, so I ditched all my earlier ideas about adding a huge number of buttons and direct control. I have a control panel on my electronics and driver box, which is not the same as the PSU box, but most of the controls I do is through a USB numerical keypad, which I defined in UCCNC to handle everything I feel I need. If I ever see the need of even more buttons I'll buy a Modbus I/O unit and will use that, three wires only (2 + shield), instead of a thick cable, is all that's needed. UCCNC has excellent Modbus plugin built in, so in my opinion it is the best solution if many inputs are needed.

Of course, some inputs must be directly wired, but how many you need depends on your design. Some people prefer individual limit switches, I have all my limit switches connected in series to one input. Some people use home switches combined with limit switches, some want them to be separated, I don't use home switch at all. So, for me the 10 inputs are enough. I also don't use the analogue inputs and outputs since I use Modbus for the spindle control, and that's why I'd go for the UC400ETH if I'd start over. I also think it is a better design than the piggy back design of the UC300, though the UC300 has many features.

[Desertboy]

AM882's are being replaced with EM806's, you try and find an EM806 in China they just don't retail them in the Asian Market. The only difference I can see according to the manual is the EM806 has different firmware relating to the motors. Region specific for the US and EU markets as the motors relate to ones they offer here. Probably the same motor different part number.

EM806's for US and EU and AM882 for Asian markets at least for now seems to be the rule, the AM882 are £60, the EM806 are ~£100

I'll strip one of the AM882's and get pics would be interesting to see what's inside the EM806 and if it really is identical except for firmware.

AM882 and EM806 are solid state tech unless you're unlucky these things will last forever.

How much did you pay for your analog drivers? I paid £200 for 4 AM882's but 2 were 2nd hand it would be £240 for new.

[m_c]

AM882's are being replaced with EM806's, you try and find an EM806 in China they just don't retail them in the Asian Market. The only difference I can see according to the manual is the EM806 has different firmware relating to the motors. Region specific for the US and EU markets as the motors relate to ones they offer here. Probably the same motor different part number.

EM806's for US and EU and AM882 for Asian markets at least for now seems to be the rule, the AM882 are £60, the EM806 are ~£100

I'll strip one of the AM882's and get pics would be interesting to see what's inside the EM806 and if it really is identical except for firmware.

AM882 and EM806 are solid state tech unless you're unlucky these things will last forever.

How much did you pay for your analog drivers? I paid £200 for 4 AM882's but 2 were 2nd hand it would be £240 for new.

AM's are not CE/UL type approved as standard, whereas EM's are.
I'm guessing the original AM's failed the tests, so they had to redesign the hardware to pass the tests, and is why only one version of the AM was produced. Once they had the hardware able to pass the tests, they scaled it to create the other drives.
The fact AMs are still available, will be likely Leadshine had them designed, in production, and being sold, before final testing for approval.

Within Europe, it's illegal to sell a non-approved drive to an end user (aka consumer), which is why AMs are not sold by any official European seller. They can be sold to a system builder/integrator, as the onus for meeting the required approvals then falls on the system builder.

[Desertboy]

Or they repackaged it as EM806 with minor tweaks and different firmware whacked the price up £30 and sent that for approval.

My guess is they are almost identical and it was in their business interests to spin the EM806 into a different product rather than approve the AM882.

After all they can charge £40 more for the product in EU if they certified the AM882 they couldn't do that because of the Asian market. People would simply import them through other channels. This way they can force higher price for the same product. This was similar to regional lockout Nintendo and Sega used in the 80's and 90's so you can charge different prices in different markets for the same product.

Someone take an EM806 apart and lets get some photo's I'll do an AM882 and then we'll have more of a clue.

[m_c]

Or they repackaged it as EM806 with minor tweaks and different firmware whacked the price up £30 and sent that for approval.

My guess is they are almost identical and it was in their business interests to spin the EM806 into a different product rather than approve the AM882.

After all they can charge £40 more for the product in EU if they certified the AM882 they couldn't do that because of the Asian market. People would simply import them through other channels. This way they can force higher price for the same product. This was similar to regional lockout Nintendo and Sega used in the 80's and 90's so you can charge different prices in different markets for the same product.

Someone take an EM806 apart and lets get some photo's I'll do an AM882 and then we'll have more of a clue.

If that was really the case, then why are there no smaller AM drives?
Leadshine's home market is probably far larger than Europe and America combined, so you would expect them to give priority to their home market, and be where they had the most diverse range.

[Desertboy]

If that was really the case, then why are there no smaller AM drives?
Leadshine's home market is probably far larger than Europe and America combined, so you would expect them to give priority to their home market, and be where they had the most diverse range.

They just miniaturised the tech just like ps2 slim, Acorn Electron, C64s, etc. Same tech, smaller package, Maybe it is new tech but more likely a small revision on a new chip fab. They copy and pasted 80% the manual of the EM806 from the AM882 so if they couldn't justify paying for a new manual lol then how different can they really be.

http://www.leadshine.com/productdetail.aspx?type=products&category=stepper-products&producttype=stepper-drives&series=EM&model=EM806

http://leadshine.com/productdetail.aspx?type=products&category=stepper-products&producttype=stepper-drives&series=AM&model=AM882

They're appears to be 1 difference in features, password protection of settings which is a non issue for me and a simple firmware change it's hardly ground breaking lol.

They literally put it the manual/description into a (probably pirated lol) copy of word and did a copy and replace lol.

[m_c]

how different can they really be.
Enough to be the difference between passing a noise/electrical emissions test, and not passing the test ;-)

There probably isn't that much difference, it's just you have to recover the costs involved somehow. CE/UL testing is not cheap, and then you have to factor in re-designs.

Plus what you're really paying for is the supply chain. I doubt Leadshine actually make that much more from the sale of an EM drive compared to an AM drive, it'll just be those buying AM drives are probably buying in far larger quantities than most European sellers. I'm sure if you asked Leadshine for a price of a couple thousand of each, you'd be surprised at how little price difference there would be.

[jtar40]

Anyone recommend any places to buy the uc300eth, or the uc400eth? I've seen the uc300eth on eBay but it's no longer available where else should I be looking?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

[Doddy]

Anyone recommend any places to buy the uc300eth, or the uc400eth? I've seen the uc300eth on eBay but it's no longer available where else should I be looking?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

CNCDrive? - they're the supplier, and the ones that advertise on eBay. I bought through them from eBay and they delivered 3-4 days later - perfect transaction. Give them a call or email them and ask if they're resisting on eBay. My choice of ordering from eBay was simply it was easier with a fixed price including delivery.

[A_Camera]

Anyone recommend any places to buy the uc300eth, or the uc400eth? I've seen the uc300eth on eBay but it's no longer available where else should I be looking?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
http://www.shop.cncdrive.com/

[jtar40]

Quick question, I'm not too sure about something about the uc300/400eth. I see that it talks about it needing an external 5vdc power supply. Now I was reading up online about it in the product manual (in section 7) states that you cannot use more than 5 volts dc because it can damage the device. That makes sense, but I'm sleightly confused about it not giving a max value for amps. Does this Matter? Do I not need to worry about amps? I'm not totally educated on this but I always thought that current is what harms the device.


Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

[john swift]

from the UC300 manual
"We recommend to use a power supply with at least 500mAmps"

so you can use any regulated 5V power supply that can supply a half amp or more is OK

the current taken is not going to be any higher if you used a 5V 100A power supply

John

do not use a 5V phone charger they are not all regulated to give you exactly 5V DC !!!

[A_Camera]

That makes sense, but I'm sleightly confused about it not giving a max value for amps.

The maximum amp value never really matters, if you use a power supply with more amps output than needed it will still only output what you are using, and in this case hardly anything at all. In current the minimum amps is what's important, in voltage it is the exact voltage level, or the maximum, what matters. Maximum voltage matters because if you are using a power supply which gives more than 5V then it may fry your UC300/400.

So, if you have a power supply which provides 5V (maximum) and 500mA (minimum) then you are OK, but if you have one which gives you 5V and 25A then you are still OK, nothing bad happens.

[A_Camera]

do not use a 5V phone charger they are not all regulated to give you exactly 5V DC !!!

I think that's not the case any more. All phone chargers use regulated power today, but maybe not all gives 5V. Anyway, original Nokia, Samsung, Sony... all safe to use, but I'd be careful with the cheap eBay chargers.

[jtar40]

What do you mean when you say "regulated power" is this something I should be worried about when searching for a power supply? If so is there some way I can identify weather it's regulated or not?
LETOUR Power Supplies DC 5V Power Supply 30A 150Watts、AC96V~130V Transform DC 5Volt Switching Power with EMC Filter Overcurrent and Overvoltage Protection (Silver) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01HJA3OUG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_d1n0CbVHAD6RM

I'm planning on buying this power supply above, but is there any specs that I should be cautious about that may be dangerous to my uc300eth-5lpt which requires an external 5vdc power supply (and a minimum of 0.5 amps)??? The power supply meets the 5 volt max, and has more than enough amps.

Thanks in advance, I truly appreciate it!!!


Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

[Clive S]

What do you mean when you say "regulated power" is this something I should be worried about when searching for a power supply? If so is there some way I can identify weather it's regulated or not?
LETOUR Power Supplies DC 5V Power Supply 30A 150Watts、AC96V~130V Transform DC 5Volt Switching Power with EMC Filter Overcurrent and Overvoltage Protection (Silver) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01HJA3OUG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_d1n0CbVHAD6RM

I'm planning on buying this power supply above, but is there any specs that I should be cautious about that may be dangerous to my uc300eth-5lpt which requires an external 5vdc power supply (and a minimum of 0.5 amps)??? The power supply meets the 5 volt max, and has more than enough amps.

Thanks in advance, I truly appreciate it!!!


Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

That is a bit overkill, just a 2A power supply will do. Something like this https://www.powersuppliesonline.co.uk/power-adapters/ac-power-adapters/10w-5v-2a-ac-dc-uk-plugtop-power-supply.html

or https://www.amazon.co.uk/Din-Rail-power-supply-MeanWell-DR-15-5/dp/B00MWQEBAU

[Doddy]

As Clive says - a bit of overkill. In theory it should work, and the argument that the UC300ETH (or whatever) will only draw the current that it requires is correct, however, big PSUs like this are sometimes less well regulated when substantially under utilised. Chances are that it will work, but something closer to the requirement of the UC300ETH (and any BOB, limit switch, relays, etc) would be sensible. 2A would be my target for something like this.

[jtar40]

Thanks for the link and the feedback, it's helping a lot in this project. Now I've got a few phone power supplies too, but the one problem is that the one is out putting 5.1 volts rather than the " exact 5 volt maximum." Is that something that should worry me? I know it's sounding a bit picky But it never hurts to ask just in case.

Thanks again in advance!

Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk

[john swift]

the extra 0.1V from your 5.1V power supply is not a problem

for 5V logic like the old 74series TTL logic
the limits for nominal 5V supply voltage is between the 4.75 min and 5.25V max

for 5V Atmel 8 bit micro controllers like the ATmega8 operating voltage is 4.5V to 5.5V

John

PS
any one know which micro controller has been used for the UC300ETH ?

[m_c]

As John says, that voltage sounds fine. It could even be your multimeter that's slightly out.


I would guess the UC300 is using some form of ARM chip, regardless I'd guess whatever chip will be running at 3.3V. Even a few years ago, the vast majority of microcontrollers were running at 3.3V max, with 5V capable ones being a dying breed.

[john swift]

m_c
your correct the micro controller is a 3.3V device


looking at a photo of the UC300 it has a
MICROCHIP dsPIC33EP256
25785


from the MICROCHIP web site
Operating Voltage Range (V)
3 to 3.6

the dsPIC33EP256 Input/Output

• Sink/Source 10 mA on All Pins
• 5V Tolerant Pins
• Selectable Open-Drain, Pull-ups and Pull-Downs
• Up to 5 mA Overvoltage Clamp Current
• External Interrupts on All I/O pins

the UC300 board has a 5V supply connector
so the surface mount device between the 5V supply and PIC
must be a low drop out 3.3V regulator

John