Wal
06-11-2018, 01:26 AM
Hi all.
I recently got given a load of hardwood off-cuts by my cousin - shelving, kitchen worktops etc. Always useful material to have around. Anyway, his wife requested a plinth for a handled glass dome they've got - haven't a clue what for, maybe some sort of decorative candle stand or something? I used a piece of the worktop he'd given me and came up with the following:
25022 25023 25024 25025
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OeiVsasNTk
The typography isn't mine - it's from an original piece by a designer called Marko Purac, who has kindly granted me permission to post pics of my work which feature his design - you can see more of his work here: www.flickr.com/photos/sepra4life
By and large I'm happy with the result but one thing I noticed was how the resin penetrated into the more open-grained pieces of wood, leading to a few dark patches.
25026
Perhaps I didn't help, as I flashed the resin for air-bubbles multiple times maybe encouraging penetration by doing so. Anyway - using a grain filler on the surface wouldn't have helped very much, as the resin would have been poured into the pockets which would have been machined post treatment.
So how would you seal off those open-grained areas? I'm aware of wood stabilisers etc. but in reality the DIY results I've seen for larger pieces of wood have been pretty hit and miss - in many cases not worth the effort/expense.!
My initial thoughts turned to painting super-glue into the pockets and their surrounding areas and then letting it dry out over a couple of days, thereby (in theory) creating an impenetrable barrier. Worth a try? Any other suggestions?
Wal.
I recently got given a load of hardwood off-cuts by my cousin - shelving, kitchen worktops etc. Always useful material to have around. Anyway, his wife requested a plinth for a handled glass dome they've got - haven't a clue what for, maybe some sort of decorative candle stand or something? I used a piece of the worktop he'd given me and came up with the following:
25022 25023 25024 25025
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OeiVsasNTk
The typography isn't mine - it's from an original piece by a designer called Marko Purac, who has kindly granted me permission to post pics of my work which feature his design - you can see more of his work here: www.flickr.com/photos/sepra4life
By and large I'm happy with the result but one thing I noticed was how the resin penetrated into the more open-grained pieces of wood, leading to a few dark patches.
25026
Perhaps I didn't help, as I flashed the resin for air-bubbles multiple times maybe encouraging penetration by doing so. Anyway - using a grain filler on the surface wouldn't have helped very much, as the resin would have been poured into the pockets which would have been machined post treatment.
So how would you seal off those open-grained areas? I'm aware of wood stabilisers etc. but in reality the DIY results I've seen for larger pieces of wood have been pretty hit and miss - in many cases not worth the effort/expense.!
My initial thoughts turned to painting super-glue into the pockets and their surrounding areas and then letting it dry out over a couple of days, thereby (in theory) creating an impenetrable barrier. Worth a try? Any other suggestions?
Wal.